MINELAB F1A4 ex military metal detectors - tips, settings, questions

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appreciate this PhasTech. to us Newbies this info is gold :)

PhaseTech said:
If your price range is in the realm of a modded F1A4, go for an umodded 3500. In milder ground you can run a mono coil, in hotter ground just run a 14-18"dd, and medium tracking. The 3500 already has all the "mods" you need. 3 tracking speeds, ground balance button on the handle, Deep mode, Signal control, Iron Reject, Cancel & Mono modes. They have come down a lot in price over the last 6 months, so are the best bang for the buck imho.

For me, the 3500 still has the best audio! Teamed up with a 15" Commander DD or a Coiltek pro coil they are a awesome combo.

Nenad
 
The Minelab F1A4 has an awesome reputation around the world as a most effective military metal detector. It seems Jack Lange has modified the military detector to become an extremely useful gold detector. The Level 2 modification is claimed to achieve the same depth and ground handling ability as the Dedicated Minelab Pulse Induction detectors but with extra advantages. E.g. A choice of 3 frequencies further enhances ability on different size targets whereas GP's are fixed on an average setting only. Also a 3-way switch gives the choice of 3 pulse timings. I lack the experience to evaluate these but one thing I am impressed with is the ability to quick release the control box and fit it in a hip/shoulder bag thus resulting in a much lighter swing.

I'm just doing my homework so would appreciate comments from anyone who has practical experience of this detector.
Harlequin
 
follow Jaros link
This detector has had alot of discussion about it already. plenty for you to read about Harlequin
Im happy with mine although it does have problems in some ground conditions where others work fine( iron stone areas and river beds). But on the whole it is a really good machine for its price.
 
Disadvantages: Its old, second hand, 90's technology thats been adapted by Jack cause he buys em for a couple hundred bucks each from the huge unwanted stock pile of old military crap and uses Minelab like marketing/backing to flog them off.

They are as heavy as a tank which will cut your detecting time.....yes, yes I hear you say that the control box can be removed and adapted to the harness that comes with them but, your still connected to the device when you put it down and try to wonder off for a look or grab a pick with both hands for a good dig.

They use heavy DD batteries that only last 8 hours? Yes you can charge them again, but what a pain in the butt (They even recommend buying a backup set lol).....my whites uses 8 AA's Lithiums that last 16 hours + and way lighter.

Minelab say they are based around a 3500 electronically....well havent they put the foot in the old gob! The F1A4 was first tested in 96 by the Cambodian military.
Thanks for charging us top dollar for old technology ML.

They find gold you say......sure maybe they do, but so would any decent modern detector you buy today if your lucky enough to walk over it and use the right technique ;)

People are obsessed by depth, so they play you to this tune.....dont believe everything you read!

;)
 
My battery mod, I still haven't tested what run time I get now but should be an improvement.
1420059264_imag0273-1-1.jpg
The battery and cable are GP (4pin) and I soldered wires onto the positive and negative inside the F1 battery compartment and onto the back of a plug that I bought off ebay. I didn't worry about the other two wires as I was only wanting the positive and negative off the GP battery. Note that the reason I wired into the F1 battery compartment and not into the F1 itself is that on the back of the compartment is a voltage regulator.
 
Hi Blind_freddie, You should get really good runtime from your detector now. It is best to do it as you have done and not directly to the control box as there are other things that need to be done to power it directly(it can be done).
Good work!

AuMan
 
Just had a look at goldscan jaros and that is an old photo of the older mod 2 machine.even the mod2 has an extra nob for gain that this photo hasnt got.so I think its the pic is the mod2 before the gain mod was added.so I'm interested to see what the 3 will have different on its face?
 
I have ended up ringing Goldscan in Ardeer and spoke with Heather.
The difference between L2 AND L3 is that it has a newer charger and the current drain goes up from 800mA TO 1.5A meaning more powerful. The extra "juice" makes the L3 search deeper.
That is the explanation I received. More powerful and deeper seeking--- $2900.00.
Jaros :p :8
 
Hi Guys,

The level 3 detector has the following feature list:
Tone, threshold, volume and a new gain control allowing much more gain.
Has 4 timings, the extra timing being the power hungry timing.
5 frequency selections 2 lower than standard for better depth with bigger coils and 2 higher than standard for better sensitivity with smaller coils.
Also it has a channel select switch which can be used to check target responses in each individual channel to help you determine size/depth and if the signal is a ground noise or not. It also has the added benefit that in the fine timing(timing 1 on the level 2) channel 1 can be used with reduced ground noise, but the detector still remains very sensitive. In this setting, you can work ground that even a 5000 has difficulty ground balancing on.
There are also mods done that increase the ground balance ability of the detector that help get the most out of the extra gain.

Also a lot of work has been done to do away with the original D cell battery pack and allow the ability to run from 5.9 to 8.4v input with the necessary internal bits done for this and also so the extra power hungry timing can be run without possible damage to the detector. The battery pack that comes with the level 3 has an adjustable voltage output that once set remains constant and does not drop away as the battery goes flat. The capacity of the battery is enough to run the detector in the most power hungry setting for about 8hrs and will charge up overnight from flat. Also during testing I noted that in some variable ground the voltage can be adjusted to help minimise the ground viabilities, this does not work in all situations. Also with higher voltage, in quiet ground, the response from smaller targets seems to be better.

Now before you all go crazy wanting to upgrade your level 2's, please be aware that I am still quite busy and it is a bit hard to squeeze the extra work through at the moment.

During initial testing, I went back to a spot that I had previously "cleaned out", well at least I thought I had! Couple of hours and about 45 bits(biggest 0.5g most around .1-.2g) later.... I was very surprised!

Kman, to answer your question from the other thread, not really. The extra timing chews too much juice to run from the D cells, the channel select switch has no where to go, the rotary switches won't fit on the front panel for the extra frequencies and timings. Also I like to keep things consistent, in that a level 2 is a level 2 and a level 3 is a 3. If some halfway machines start to get out there, then it becomes hard in the future to know what has been done if you ever sell it on/ are looking to buy. The Timing and frequency switches are mounted on the battery end of the machine, the channel select switch goes where the timing switch was on the L2.

Also there is an option for the mounting bracket to be replaced with a special pressed aluminium bracket that will allow the box to be mounted on a normal Minelab style armrest and shaft.

I think that just about covers it..

Auman
 
Good one auman I knew you would be the one to ask and get the best answer from ;) ;) secondly awsome mate these knew mods sound like the bomb :D :D much much more than I would have expected, the moder has done himself proud. :cool: thirdly, bugga would have loved a upgrade.fourthly,bugga bugga bugga.
 
Kman,

This one makes for a very versatile machine, you can set up for small gold and go find it, or set up for bigger chunks. Also having done away with the battery carrier, you get rid of about 750g(with batteries) and don't have to worry about what happens if the battery carrier dies one day after it is out of warranty. They can be repaired, but are quite difficult to get apart and still have them presentable afterwards!

With the level 3 if you wanted a spare battery a 6v gel cell with suitable charger would be sufficient.

I don't think there is much more that can be done to them, except for sections to be completely re-designed and new boards made LOL, yeah yeah, there's always something more, but that is just getting stupid!

Auman
 

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