Fittings, Layflat, Suction hose for Highbankers..

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Tathradj said:
LOL,
Thanks Nugget. That is some serious clamping force there. I also did note that the screws are wound right out in your pictures as well.
.
Sorry, I failed to mention that. OOps.
:lol:
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the wire type clamp? It was done up about as tight as it would go as it was starting to twist.
 
With my pump, if the connection was done to fast it was causing a leak, i say firm is good, to tight not always good, depends on the pump
 
Nugget said:
Tathradj said:
LOL,
Thanks Nugget. That is some serious clamping force there. I also did note that the screws are wound right out in your pictures as well.
.
Sorry, I failed to mention that. OOps.
:lol:
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the wire type clamp? It was done up about as tight as it would go as it was starting to twist.
Click to expand...

supa cheap stainless steel clamps with nyloc nuts are a good one for a permanent clamp 8)
 
To be honest I'm pretty happy with the Norma clamps, I just need the correct size. I simply took the size that was given to me over the counter with no questions asked.
 
Re-post as I accidentally posted this to similar topic.

Clamps all sorted and was able to fire the Walbanker up for the first time today, I'm happy to say no leaks :D

[video=480,360]http://youtu.be/_WSSHVNdMOM[/video]

I had the pump running on low throttle during the video so I didn't disturb the neighbours.

1394523439_walbanker_test_run.jpg
 
okay

from the mining tricks of trade bible

the supaclamp you have is one size too small

throw the Honda clamp in the bin

either use one supaclamp of the right size or two tridon type worm drive stainless clamps , or "band it" strap clamps which you wont have access to

use a SMALL AMOUNT of silicon if you want to but you shouldnt need to with layflat

IF YOU USE SILICON ON YOUR SUCTION HOSE...... lol pardon me shouting the trick is to put silicon on the fitting , not in the hose , push the hose on and do the clamp up half to two thirds tight , allow the silicon to go off and then tight the clamp the rest of the way

most important thing with layflat hose , is either put a 50 mm slit in the end of the hose , fold it back over on itself and clamp it , or cut a 50 mm long bit of hose to double layer it before you clamp it.
 
Could be running the pump another 20% higher mate. (neighbors wouldn't mind) I run about 3/4 throttle and this gives the best flow rate for mass production, and best spray pressure to break up clay. Pressure will also iron out the kinks in the hose. Can run through it at the Tuena outing, so the unit is working at max capacity.

Wal.
 
For sure Wal. I had the pump turned up prior to taking the photo while I checked over the fittings etc but backed it right off when I was done tinkering with it.
 
spottedgum said:
I am just wondering how much intake hose to run. I have 11m at the moment and boy it is a handful!
How much should I cut?
Click to expand...

I run 2m and have never seen an area where you would need more than 3m in all the places I've ever Hi- banked. ;)

Wal.
 
Thanks guys.
I felta bit of a goof. There I was, layflat all snuggly rolled, WalBank on Back, WX15 in hand and then this tremendous length of pool trunk wrapped round and round and round like there was no tomorrow.
I will make cuts and adjustments now.

Let me know if anyone else needs some 38mm pool hose for intake because I have a few extra M to give :)
 
Nugget said:
Retirement Stone said:
Are you using corrugated pool hose for the intake?

When I was testing mine for the first time I used pool hose and it leaked,

Now I have stiff but proper intake hose and the lay flat clamped directly to the camlocks on the out let hoses.

A few drips here and there should not be a show stopper?
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm using corrugated pool hose for the intake but it's the delivery side that's leaking which is a rubber type layflat hose clamped directly onto an aluminium camlock.

It's definitely leaking between the layflat and the camlock, and not from the camlock connector / seal itself.
Click to expand...
Ther is a self vulcanising rubber you can try around the aluminium before you slide the hose on and then clamp it down.
It looks like thick black sticky tape and you just stretch it as you roll it on. You can remove it easily too.
Have a look in auto accessories and it is good to have it in the car incase you blow a hose.
 
spottedgum said:
I am just wondering how much intake hose to run. I have 11m at the moment and boy it is a handful!
How much should I cut?
Click to expand...

I'm currently using 2mtr on the suction side and it seems plenty for where I go. I've also cut my 20mtr layflat hose down into 2 lengths, 6mtrs and 14mtrs. Lugging around and rolling out 20mtrs of hose when I'm only 3-4 away from the water seemed silly and was a pain in the backside. I pack the 14mtr length just in case through.
 
Most pumps come with a suction strainer. I know the pumps I sell do. If you need another one as a spare shoot me an e-mail for a quote
 
spottedgum said:
I am just wondering how much intake hose to run. I have 11m at the moment and boy it is a handful!
How much should I cut?
Click to expand...

For the most efficient pumping use an intake or suction hose that's as short as possible. Pumps are good at producing pressure, not vacuum. The longer and smaller your suction hose is the less efficient your pump output will be as you're choking the pump right from the start. For best performance don't use a suction hose diameter that's less than the pumps specification. So if it's a 2" pump, use a 2" suction hose.

The physics of pumping is that the pump creates a less than atmospheric pressure at it's intake and it's actually the atmospheric pressure that pushes the water into the pump. I have read that the theoretical maximum head that a pump can draw from is 7.6 metres. A pump with a maximum head of 50 metres sure can't suck from 25 metres and deliver to 25 metres.

When a pump calculation is done all the factors of flow rate, intake head, delivery head, length and size of the hoses are all part of the calculation to determine a total head. From this you can then choose which pump you require.

Suction hose leaks are also a killer when it comes to pump efficiency so the clamping and sealing on the suction side of the pump is just as important as the output side. A suction hose leak won't be as easy to find because it will be sucking in (or having air pushed in to be pedantic) air and not leaking water.
 
ratovic said:
spottedgum said:
I am just wondering how much intake hose to run. I have 11m at the moment and boy it is a handful!
How much should I cut?
Click to expand...

For the most efficient pumping use an intake or suction hose that's as short as possible. Pumps are good at producing pressure, not vacuum. The longer and smaller your suction hose is the less efficient your pump output will be as you're choking the pump right from the start. For best performance don't use a suction hose diameter that's less than the pumps specification. So if it's a 2" pump, use a 2" suction hose.

The physics of pumping is that the pump creates a less than atmospheric pressure at it's intake and it's actually the atmospheric pressure that pushes the water into the pump. I have read that the theoretical maximum head that a pump can draw from is 7.6 metres. A pump with a maximum head of 50 metres sure can't suck from 25 metres and deliver to 25 metres.

When a pump calculation is done all the factors of flow rate, intake head, delivery head, length and size of the hoses are all part of the calculation to determine a total head. From this you can then choose which pump you require.

Suction hose leaks are also a killer when it comes to pump efficiency so the clamping and sealing on the suction side of the pump is just as important as the output side. A suction hose leak won't be as easy to find because it will be sucking in (or having air pushed in to be pedantic) air and not leaking water.
Click to expand...

Great explanation. Thanks.
 

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