Boiling advice please

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Ridge Runner said:
Have you pressure tested the cooling system yet if so what were the results ?
That should have been a key movement before any magic potions were added.
I have had a new thought , since this motor isnt made for this model are the hoses routed properly so waters not going through radiator backwards or the heater hoses arent bi passing water before it goes through the engine.
 
aussiefarmer said:
Ridge Runner said:
Have you pressure tested the cooling system yet if so what were the results ?
That should have been a key movement before any magic potions were added.
I have had a new thought , since this motor isnt made for this model are the hoses routed properly so waters not going through radiator backwards or the heater hoses arent bi passing water before it goes through the engine.

Yep, I would of got it tested first and then started spending money, You can buy Coolant pressure kits from about 50 bucks and upwards,

Before trying to fix any major problem a person should by the relevant test kit first, You might only ever use it once in your life but in a lot of cases the cure is often a quick fix,

Another thing people need to realize is that these kits can be had for less than the cost of what a garage would charge to do the same test using the same equipment, So if you buy the kit you still save money as well as still have the tool to use on friends and families cars, :Y:

The Second Test I would of done is a Leak Down Test by pulling the Injectors and inflating each Cylinder. Unless it's a Common Rail. then it's a Glow plug out Job :perfect:
 
I wonder if the motor is a grey
import Japanese motor.

They have fewer and smaller gallery's in the block
and head.

This was done to suit the Toorak Tracters in the Northern
Island of Japan.
 
The easy way to tell if the head gasket has gone is to do a leak down test on each cylinder and take the radiator cap of and see if bubbles come up, Doing this test will tell you a couple of things =3, If the Valves are leaking, 2= how good the rings and the bore is and 3= if the head gasket has gone,

Doing the Cooling system pressure test will show you if there is any leaks and it will also show external leaks like welsh plugs, Split hoses Cracked fittings and joints, water pump leaks, heating leaks, NOTE, One of the most common Water Losses in cars of the past 20+ years are the Cheap Heater Radiators that fit under the windscreen cowl or up under the Dashboard and they are a PIA to change, I had a Merc 190 AMG and it's heater Rad leaked and caused the vehicle to boil and buggered the Head Gasket, But to change the Heater Rad was a weeks work to remove the complete dash and replace it and then put it all back together, "No Thanks"

I would stop pouring junk in to this motor and buy the Cooling system pressure testing kit and pump it up and go over every joint and fitting that has anything to do with water and the Cooling and heating system,,

All you do is use the right fitting and pump it up and watch the Gauge, some times for a few minutes others can take an hour and in some cases you have to pump it up and leave it over night to see if it drops, but either way if there is any form of a leak or a drop in pressure it will show using one of these kits,

Anyways this Kit below is what you need,

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht694-radiator-pressure-test-kit/
 
Did you get to take her for a run Ken...if so ,did she overheat....er...or is it a HE?...EITHER WAY whats the score. :cool:
 
Ridge Runner said:
One thing that helps when looking for a Leak is if you have Antifreeze/Coolant in the system is to check it at night USING a UV Torch/Lamp because coolant shows up under UV Light so the leak is easier to Spot, Ok :Y:

I'll check that RR. Got the UV for AC. :Y:
 
Took my ute to a bloke who is a metal fabricator and builds race cars and dose 4 wheel drive mods for him to have a look
What he found was

Bull bar not designed for this model ute so showed me where to cut bits out and also he is going to do a built in air ram into the radiator

Replace the original fan and remove the thermo fan i fitted
No bash plate fitted so am chasing one of them this week if not he will build me one out of 3mm checker plate
Removed the thermo fan
Cut the bull bar as he suggested and believe it or not this is what happened

The way was it started it boiled (106 degrees) after 10k
Traveled today 47k in 30 degree heat (bloody hot here today) the temperature did not get above 82 degrees
(normal operating temp is between 80 to 94 degrees)
So just cutting the bull bar and doing the fan has helped so much cant wait to see the end result when he finishes with it

So the way things are looking i will be back on the road with a bit of luck by the next week or so
 
I'm guessing it was the fan not working as it should

I had the issue of overheating all the time, I changed the radiator and all is good now.
I originally thought it was the fans but found out later the the 3 core Chinese radiator was only working on one and the flow was restricted..
Bloody Chinese crap and cheats, totally lost my $$$
They are sneaky buggers and very hard to get your money back because, they just shut shop and start again under a new name and keep ripping us off.
 
diggin4gold said:
I'm guessing it was the fan not working as it should

I had the issue of overheating all the time, I changed the radiator and all is good now.
I originally thought it was the fans but found out later the the 3 core Chinese radiator was only working on one and the flow was restricted..
Bloody Chinese crap and cheats, totally lost my $$$
They are sneaky buggers and very hard to get your money back because, they just shut shop and start again under a new name and keep ripping us off.
Yes that is so true happens a lot these days
 
So the airflow was being blocked underneath the winch and only the top third of the core was getting airflow ?

Nice you got a win after all the heartache. :trophy:

1602763623_lux.jpg
 

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