Have you tried reversing up the hills so the ute thinks its going down ?
Boiling advice please
- Thread starter 7.62marksman
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aussiefarmer said:
It may freeze
layful:- Joined
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The new motor the water jackets probably dried out so after fitting it it released scale and crud and have blocked some of the cors in your new radiator get a back flush done at a rad place your home tap and hose won,t do it take the rad to them .
Is the fan fitted the correct way around it does my head in just thinking of this .
Is the fan fitted the correct way around it does my head in just thinking of this .
yes the fan is the right way around that was one thing i checked a few days agorobmoto said:
aussiefarmer said:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: you funny :lol: :lol: :lol:
I have a Delica, similar problems and tests, with parts being replaced to no fix yet.
Under load it gets hot.
A Mechanic in Vic that specializes in them advised that the OEM water pump is the way to go, did I have it replaced at any time?
I have but I dont know what they put into it.
Apparently an OEM pump is designed for the correct flow and pressure etc, and he has come across the same issue with 3rd party pumps
having different impeller shapes that dont do what the engine needs.
So OEM is the go and Bosch would be his second choice, but stick to the OEM !
I intend to get over to Melbourne and have him sort the problems out, lots of little kinks I cant chase, but that would be his job.
So is the water pump an OEM ?
I didnt go thru the list of responses, just headed to make my post.
Under load it gets hot.
A Mechanic in Vic that specializes in them advised that the OEM water pump is the way to go, did I have it replaced at any time?
I have but I dont know what they put into it.
Apparently an OEM pump is designed for the correct flow and pressure etc, and he has come across the same issue with 3rd party pumps
having different impeller shapes that dont do what the engine needs.
So OEM is the go and Bosch would be his second choice, but stick to the OEM !
I intend to get over to Melbourne and have him sort the problems out, lots of little kinks I cant chase, but that would be his job.
So is the water pump an OEM ?
I didnt go thru the list of responses, just headed to make my post.
Ok after reading all the advice you guys have been giving me
and knowing that now i cant trust anything that the bloke i bought it off has told me
I found out he has not been telling me the truth about the Ute
I will be putting a genuine Toyota water pump in this week
and while i am at it i will also be doing the timing belt
and maybe even fit the electric fan while i have it in bits
Will let you all know how it goes when its finished and tested
Once again thanks for all your help :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
and knowing that now i cant trust anything that the bloke i bought it off has told me
I found out he has not been telling me the truth about the Ute
I will be putting a genuine Toyota water pump in this week
and while i am at it i will also be doing the timing belt
and maybe even fit the electric fan while i have it in bits
Will let you all know how it goes when its finished and tested
Once again thanks for all your help :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
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boiling advice please. I replaced a damaged radiator in my 2.0 litre hiace. This new radiator over heated badly. I undid the radiator cap and counted the water pipes from front to back. There were 3 rows. I then counted the pipes in the damaged radiator. there were 4! It turned out the 2nd radiator was out of a 1.8 litre hiace. It fitted perfectly. I then replaced that with another radiator out of a 2.0 litre hiace. It worked perfectly. It was only a difference of 0.2 litre between the two motors, but made a vast difference. Maybe you should count the pipes in a 3.0 litre radiator and compare it with what you now have in yours. wiley
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Not related to the OP however you need to watch grey imports.
Many years ago we had overheating issues with a brand of excavator coming out of Japan.
Japan has a very cold climate and after investigation they increased the number of radiator cores in the radiator and oil cooler on all their machines exported to us.
This issue may also apply to grey imports of earthmoving machines brought here direct from Japan as they may have smaller cores , same with cars when you see a front cut brought here the radiator should be checked to see if its the right spec for Oz.
Many years ago we had overheating issues with a brand of excavator coming out of Japan.
Japan has a very cold climate and after investigation they increased the number of radiator cores in the radiator and oil cooler on all their machines exported to us.
This issue may also apply to grey imports of earthmoving machines brought here direct from Japan as they may have smaller cores , same with cars when you see a front cut brought here the radiator should be checked to see if its the right spec for Oz.
Thanks mate read and replied
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If you have old or to soft radiator hose especially when warmed up it will suck itself flat and stop most of the water flow , some hoses do a open spring set up inside them to stop it collapsing .
New water pump ordered and its a 5L engine from what Toyota said :8 :8 :8 :8 :8 :8
Almost positive that 5L uses an inter cooler. Without one you are pumping in extremely hot air. That heat has to go somewhere. There are apps around to work out how much hotter per psi. https://racingcalcs.com/turbo-boost-temperature-calculator/
As mentioned before a thermocouple will give an indication of exhaust temp. 600*C is fine under load. Much higher and you will destroy the turbo.
As mentioned before a thermocouple will give an indication of exhaust temp. 600*C is fine under load. Much higher and you will destroy the turbo.
So..................................................................... ?
Waiting to fit a new toyota water pump and thermostat
been to sick to do it hope will get it done next week
been to sick to do it hope will get it done next week
Another thing that can cause overheating is grass seeds dirt in the AC condenser in front of the radiator. or mixing of 2 different coolants , this will cause crystals to form and block the core galleries in the radiator. Can you hear the fan roaring when the temp starts to rise above normal. If not then the viscous fan hub needs cleaning or replacing or there is an airflow problem that is not allowing air thru the radiator. It could also be that the radiator is too small for the 3lt turbo engine.
Need to get it tested for carbon monoxide in cooling system its a simple test form a reputable cooling company id be doing this before anything else may not be a head gasket but could be a cracked liner or bore
Just a quick update
Only boils with the caravan on and going up hill
The following have already been done
1. Fan Clutch Replaced (new $700)
2. New radiator and cap (fitted before i got the ute)
3. Head gasket chemical tested and is good no leaks
3. Oil change done with new filter
4. Sports straight threw muffler on 3" exhaust so no obstructions (fitted before i got the ute talked the the company that fitted it)
5. Air con/radiator clear no obstructions
7. New temp sender unit
8. Turbo boost tested and is 6-7 so within the range (by the local diesel mech here)
9. All hoses tested to make sure they do no collapse under heat/pressure
10. Fan cowling resealed
11. All belts checked and tightened
12. Check for water leaks --- No water leaks as it does not loose any water until it starts to boil
Yet to do in the next week
1. Fit a Extra large bonnet scoop (hole already cut stopped by sickness and rain)
2. New toyota water pump and thermostat
3. Intercooler to be fitted if the above don't solve the problem (have a top mounted intercooler)
4. Remove all the air conditioner stuff and fit a electronic push fan (wont fit with the air con radiator thingy fitted)
5. After market temp gauge to be fitted
6. Replace cut bonnet braces to comply with roadworthy
Extra stuff to be done
1. Repair collapsed drivers seat ($300 to repair)
2. New steering wheel
3. New drivers side seat belt
4. Fix central locking
The old saying if its looks to good to be true then it is
I should have known better when he dropped $2k with one phone call and told me there was nothing wrong with it at all
Met a bloke that used to work for the landscaping company i bought it off and we got talking and the first thing he asked was if it was still boiling under load as it was when he was driving it and was told to keep the speed under 80k per hour to stop it boiling.
Only boils with the caravan on and going up hill
The following have already been done
1. Fan Clutch Replaced (new $700)
2. New radiator and cap (fitted before i got the ute)
3. Head gasket chemical tested and is good no leaks
3. Oil change done with new filter
4. Sports straight threw muffler on 3" exhaust so no obstructions (fitted before i got the ute talked the the company that fitted it)
5. Air con/radiator clear no obstructions
7. New temp sender unit
8. Turbo boost tested and is 6-7 so within the range (by the local diesel mech here)
9. All hoses tested to make sure they do no collapse under heat/pressure
10. Fan cowling resealed
11. All belts checked and tightened
12. Check for water leaks --- No water leaks as it does not loose any water until it starts to boil
Yet to do in the next week
1. Fit a Extra large bonnet scoop (hole already cut stopped by sickness and rain)
2. New toyota water pump and thermostat
3. Intercooler to be fitted if the above don't solve the problem (have a top mounted intercooler)
4. Remove all the air conditioner stuff and fit a electronic push fan (wont fit with the air con radiator thingy fitted)
5. After market temp gauge to be fitted
6. Replace cut bonnet braces to comply with roadworthy
Extra stuff to be done
1. Repair collapsed drivers seat ($300 to repair)
2. New steering wheel
3. New drivers side seat belt
4. Fix central locking
The old saying if its looks to good to be true then it is
I should have known better when he dropped $2k with one phone call and told me there was nothing wrong with it at all
Met a bloke that used to work for the landscaping company i bought it off and we got talking and the first thing he asked was if it was still boiling under load as it was when he was driving it and was told to keep the speed under 80k per hour to stop it boiling.
