DEEP CYCLE BATTERIES and BUSH POWER

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I have just bought a new good quality 120AH AGM Deep Cycle Battery for my caravan @ $350.

I added better charging than the van manufacturer had installed.

A Redarc BCDC1220 to charge from the car and run my van 3 way fridge and a Projecta Intellicharge 15 amp 7 stage smart charger for 240V charging.

The RRP direct from Redarc is $540.90 (their factory is 25kms from where I live)
The RRP for the Intellicharge is $249

I got both off Ebay, at Autoelecau (Bairnsdale Auto Electrics) the Redarc $340 and the Intellicharge for $170. That's a saving of $280.

The 2 chargers will outlast me, but batteries eventually need replacing, how often really does depend on how they are looked after.

Although I've said you get what you pay for in the past, shopping arround will save money. So will doing it right.
 
Norm, a couple of points to consider -
- They could be a great tool to have for a bit of portable power around a campsite

- Power out must be replaced at some time with the same power back in and the sooner the better.
- Don't let the voltage get too low before recharge, else it may damage the battery.
o A battery can get very low before some devices (such as some LEDs) call it quits.
- I would be a bit concerned to try and use those small leads, at the devices max current, say for jump starting, they would likely act as a nice "fuse".

Rob
 
Hey Condor
have been reading most of your threads, and have found them very informative and you realy seam to know what your talking about.
At this stage i only have a suby and camp out, dont need a full setup but am looking at ways i can recharge my laptop, phone, and some lithium-ion batteries(11.1v 2.4amh), to have a bit longer stays in the bush (10 days or so).
At the moment i charge all these from the cig sockets in the car and just run it for 15min a day, have only had a flat battery once but have found that i can actualy jump start the car from one of the li-ion batteries, (if Fully charged), they are from RC planes and are amazingly good and cheap from "hobbyking" (yes i know the dangers and treat with respect, but they are great for running led lights and i already have them).
I wont go into anymore detail as it is not realy needed, but was wondering what you think of these products i have just found on flee-bay??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161675623954?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221313184820?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221338325899?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

your opinion would be greatly appreciated
Kind Regards
Boyd
 
Actually don't worry about the first one (solar panels) as just did a check on seller and to many negative feedbacks (wouldnt take the risk),
but still interested in opinion on batteries especially 130ah/1000cca as seems to be reputable aus seller.
thanks
Boyd
 
Hi C22
Just spent the morning reading through all your thread and appreciate all the great information it contains on setting up the different systems that can provide power whilst out bush.
I am in the planing stage for my camp set up.
I have a ford station waggon and a box trailer, so wont be able to do any off roading that would require a 4x4. Which is ok as most of the places i am planing to visit and camp at in the near future are not to far off the beaten track.
Will be packing a medium size tent 2 burner gas stove & gas bottle some camp chairs , camp table and an eski and a few other odds and ends i.e metal detector and walbanker + small petrol water pump. So should all fit in the trailer.

What I am planing to build is a stand alone portable solar system that can easily fit into a purpose build box to fit on the trailer and a solar panal that I can set up a short distance away.
I would only need at this stage to power 2 lights and i would also like to be able to charge an ipad and an iphone and possibly later when i can afford it, add a small 12v cooler box.
I have looked up what I think would work and listed the items below, but would appreciate your advice and suggestion on what you think and if you have any better suggestions.

This is the solar panel I was looking at buying. I would use two panels conected with hinges so it can fold together and a fold out adjustable support frame, so I can set it up facing the sun at different angles.
1437616684_image.jpg

Converter charger LCD 30A MPPT Solar Panel Battery Regulator Charge Controller 12V/24V CE
1437615795_image.jpg

Converter
1437615492_image.jpg

Pro Power 12V Volt 105AH AGM Deep Cycle Battery
1437618160_image.jpg
 
Solar - OK, Battery - OK, Regulator - Overkill.........Inverter will add to on more info.

Solar Panels and Regulator - @ x 40W Panels will only ever pump out between 5 and 6 amps, so a 30A regulator is overkill unless you intend to triple your panels into the future. A 10A controller would suffice - https://www.solaronline.com.au/solar-regulators.html (which is MPPT) or something like this http://www.jaycar.com.au/Ecotech/So...esistant-PWM-Solar-Charge-Controller/p/MP3720 (This is a PWM regulator, I use something similar on my 110W panel)

Re the inverter - what do you want to run i.e. item and amps and for how long. A 300W inverter pulling 300W will draw 27AH.

Re charging from USB, use a cig socket USB such as
1437637201_81039.png
or
1437637292_346715.jpg


The current draw is very low charging USB. If you are charging a GPX5000 battery a 150W inverter is good enough and again low draw. Try to charge stuff whilst driving, that way you don't use the AGM battery, plug it into the car cig socket, but don't go over 10A or 120W.

I have a 12V cig charger for the 5000 battery.

Use LED lights as well. Find out the current A or Power W of everything you use, add it up as to what you use at any one time and multiply by time to work out overall use in AH.

Keep battery use between charges to between 25 and 30AH max.

Hope this helps
 
Thanks c22
Im going to use 2x 40w solar panels = 80w

Lights 2x 9w led strip lights for inside the tent.
1437648418_image.jpg


1x 15w led strip light for out side.
1437648493_image.jpg

Total 33W

I checked the converter charger and they sell a 10A version.

With the inverter, we will be charging a lap top and small devices i.e 1 iPad , 1 iPhone and a 240v rechargable battery charger.
Need this for the detector batteries.

Later I hope to add a 12v cooler box or similar.
i looked up a 150W inverter.
1437649897_image.jpg

If I do get something like this, i will have to change the plug.

My station wagon is dedicated LPG gas and in the past, I have had problems starting it when the battery falls below optimum charge.
The Cigarette lighter is used for my tom tom when driving, but once parked and the camp set up, I do not want to use the car battery for anything but starting the car, because from experience i know with out a fully charged batter and being an auto its a bugger to start with a low battery. :mad:
 
If you are charging or using a laptop on an inverter, make sure it is pure sine wave. Modified SW produces dirty power and may affect or damage sensitive devices.
 
Went camping last weekend for 3 nights, I got there Friday arvo and left Monday morning. If it helps others here are the results of my caravan battery usage;

Arrived, 3pm Friday, battery fully charged. I knew I was going to have a late one as the cricket was on, I also wanted 240V to run the Microwave to cook tea, saving LPG. Also as the diesel heater pulls about 2.8A until it reaches temp, I'd use genny power for start up. I also decided to use 240V to heat up the hot water rather than use gas. So, I ran the genny for 3 hours Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights till about 7.30pm.

Once on battery power, I had the TV on for the cricket from 7.30pm till about 1.30am, one LED light the same time and a couple of others for minutes at a time as needed. The diesel heater was on all night from about 4 pm till 8am next day. Saturday night only had TV on for 3 hours as we sat round campfire till about 10.30. Sunday night similar to Friday night, except it went down to -2 overnight and the heater ran a bit higher than its lowest speed etc.

I used 31AH Friday night, 26AH Saturday night and 43AH on Sunday night. I wouldn't normally watch that much TV, gotta blame the cricket, lol. So;

Lights, a bit of TV and the heater will probably use between 20 to 25AH which is a bit less than 25% of capacity. (120AH AGM @ 25% is 30AH)

I didn't recharge Monday off the genny, I let the BCDC1220 do that on the drive home. Also, as it was only 3 days, I didn't fire up the 3 way fridge in the van, I used the Engel in the 4x4. I also charged my Galaxy S4 and Android tablet in the van on Sunday via the duel USB port I installed.

Between stopping the engine each day and heading out the next and given the low overnight temps, the Engel used less than 5AH overnight.

My conclusion is that I have enough juice in the 4x4 and caravan to do what I want to do, I know what I'm using and charging and manage it accordingly with the BM PRO.
I have the ability to charge the 4x4 aux via BCDC, solar and genny and likewise in the caravan. I also have the ability to connect the 4x4 aux into the van to boost AH for the van if available and needed.

I'll get a better idea of normal use in September when I go on my next prospecting trip. I still consider fixed solar on the roof of the van, but each time I think, "Well I run the genny for hot water and microwave to save LPG for the fridge, the battery gets charged anyway, so, what value do I add by spending money adding panels, none really." I do have a suitcase 120W anyway and a 110W concertina for the 4x4.
 
condor22 said:
If you are charging or using a laptop on an inverter, make sure it is pure sine wave. Modified SW produces dirty power and may affect or damage sensitive devices.

Pure sine wave C22
The thing that has me thinking is later if I want to add Portable fridge freezer box, will the system im building be able to handle it.
Lumik 45L
Rated power 55.2W
Consumption of energy 87kWh/annum
1437656325_image.jpg
 
High amps @4.5A, my Engel 30lt pulls 2.9A

Winter time ok, but summer is the killer. My Engel uses about 25AH in 24 hrs @ 20 deg C, but nearer 50AH @ 40 deg C

I'll go back to process i.e. the timing of and way a battery is charged. I'll use my Engel as an example, not winter but summer.

My battery is a 100AH, I know that from 8am to 4pm it will use 25AH, so not a problem when driving as I have a Redarc BCDC1220 20A charger putting in more than I use.
When not driving I have a 110W concertina solar panel I can deploy which pumps in more than the fridge uses. The time I am on battery only is at night, no sun for solar and probably not driving. However, I also have a Honda 2kVA generator I use on the caravan as explained above. It has 2 x 240VAC outlets, so I can supply the van battery charger with one and I also carry a 8A 240VAC charger I can hook up to the 4x4 Auxiliary. I know your system is not as comprehensive, but by explaining what I do and why, you can hopefully adapt for yours.

The key thing is that I have a battery monitor (BM PRO) on the van battery and another on the 4x4 auxiliary. So I know exactly the state of charge, the current load Amps or charging Amps. Knowing this allows me to decide if I need to charge and how, depending on time of day and if in motion or not.

As I have said several times, I maximise battery life by limiting depth of charge to approx. 25%, i.e. 30AH on the van 120AH and 25AH on the 4x4 aux. I will on occasion if needed go to about 35%, but if that happened too often, it might be time to either reduce load or think about a bigger battery or charge before that happens.

BTW I learned the hard way by running a 300W inverter almost to full power each night for a week on my first van many years ago. The end result was 2 x 100AH AGMs stuffed in less than 2 years. I have just replaced the 4x4 AGM @ nearly 9 years old, because I managed its use.

Again I'll say, if you try too hard to take the cheap way out, invariably you will end up spending more in the long run. That's why I use Redarc, Honda, Pure Sine Wave gear, quality solar cells, smart chargers etc all matched to the optimum values of load and charge.

The key for you is to total the load x the hours required, then and only then can you, or I for that matter, establish the sizing of components.
 
Thanks for your advice C22
I havent bought any components yet , as I am trying to see what would work for me, by using you as a sounding board.
And I really appreciate all your replies and the information they contain. Thanks !

I have used the 40W panels before and i hope by combining 2 panels for a total of 80w they will serve my purpose, if not open to suggestions.
My basic need for lighting is 3 x led strip lights as above totalling 33W And to have the option of the 150W inverter to run one or two 240v appliances i.e a rechargeable battery charger for AAA an 9V batteries and a portable fridge freezer that is rated with in the ability of my system and will not drain the battery below 75% (25AH) each charge cycle.
If I need to add a BM pro battery monitor no problem, as I can see the advantage of having one connected.
I also dont mind paying a little extra to buy the right brand from the start as I want a system that is reliable and long lasting if maintained properly.
Most of what I have shown in my posts are examples of what I thought would work, but if you suggest some thing more suitable or better for my purpose, I would heed your advice.
Thanks C22 i really appreciate you taking the time to answer my post and help me with something I have very little knowledge of or experience with.
:)
 
Solar panels - If you have 2 standalone 40W solar panels and want to combine them, make sure they are in parallel. Do either or both currently have regulators fitted?
If running a fridge and relying on solar only to charge, that will barely make it my opinion, I would want at least 110-120W.

Lighting - Each strip light averages at 11W, which close enough to say 1 amp each. So to work out total loads for an evening I'll give an example.
If you run 1 light for 5 hours, you will use 5AH, if all 3 for 5 hours, you will use 15AH total. That should give you an idea of the calculation, but it's all dependent on what YOU do i.e how many lights and for how long.

Do not run a portable fridge/freezer from an inverter, it will use more power than if used on 12VDC.

Inverter - If using a pure sine wave 150W inverter, work on it needing 13.5A to use all 150W. If you only use 50W of it then the load would be approx. 4.4A.
Then multiply whatever you calculate the actual use is x the time used for AH.

I would use nothing but Engel as a fridge, you pay for them, but that's why they are so good. Mines now 22 years + old and still in almost as new condition, no noise etc, but I look after it.

Charging AAA and 9V batteries is almost not worth adding to use as the current draw is so low. I do have a AAA 240V charger, I'll hook it into my inverter and check the current draw on my BM PRO for you tomorrow.

Look at the Projecta 150W pure sine wave and look at Autoelecau on EBay to supply, great service and good price post free.
Also look at other methods of charging, solar only is limiting you. If the sun ain't shining, most panels drop off output.

Don't charge an AGM directly from an alternator, 13.8V is not enough. AGMs need 14.5V, look at a DC to DC charger. Or, consider a small genny, you may not need both, but one or the other plus solar will put you way out in front.
Autoelec also do Redarc DC chargers at the best price. Bear in mind that a 240VAC smart charger, such as the Projecta 16A, may still be damaged if you use an el cheapo genny. A Honda EU10i is $1399 from the generator place online, they are national and have stores. A Yamaha 1kVA is $1149 and just as good.

It's your choice as to what and where you buy, I have no affiliation with any of the businesses above, other than being a satisfied customer.
 

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