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mozzie1957

Wayne Blyton
Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Messages
204
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94
Location
Junortoun, VIC
Got this little amp kit from Jaycar, $9.95. Added a 10k potentiometer for the volume control, on/off toggle switch, 9v battery clip, bit of shielded 2 core and 6.5 mm jack to plug into the audio socket on the detector, and a socket for the speaker to plug into. All up about $20 and makes a ripper little booster. Beats paying over $100.
1406039574_amp.png
 
Indeed, I built a class D one from plans i got off this forum total cost was $25.80..

I was considering the roosterbooster but when i saw how simple they are to put together.. saved $94.20 :)
Love to see the finished product Mozzie.
 
Mozzie .... Dah... I should have re-read your post before asking about the voltage ... '9 volt' but I still would not mind hearing about the power consumption, and would love to see a circuit diagram that includs the connection of the potentiometer.

Peter
 
Dreamwalking said:
Mozzie .... Dah... I should have re-read your post before asking about the voltage ... '9 volt' but I still would not mind hearing about the power consumption, and would love to see a circuit diagram that includs the connection of the potentiometer.

Peter

Here you go:
Power: Max 2 W Music Power / Operating Voltage 6 - 9 V/DC
Current consumption: max 380 mA
Speaker: 8 ohm Frequency range: approx. 20 - 20.000 Hz
1406121448_img.jpg
 
The TDA2822 shown will put 1 watt into an 8 ohm speaker at 9v supply. Ive been looking for a drop in replacement with higher power output but it seems to be a little lost lamb in terms of standard output pins! I use an amp kit based around LM386 but swapped the IC out for a OP2134 for a bit more grunt and fidelity. That Jaycar kit seems to be pretty good value though. I've been looking at the datasheet and it looks fairly straightforward to mod the circuit to bridge the amp which will give 2w into 8ohm at 7v

datasheet - http://hsbp.org/dl667
 
Mozzie1957 (Wayne) ... Thank you for the speedie reply and clear circuit diagram, all looks to be a garden variety of parts and a quickie to knock up, will follow up on the IC's applications to identify support componants, with the inclement weather here I may have to resort to a spider web configuration of parts and fill in some time if the better halve has no plans for me ...lol .

Cheers Pete
 
Excellent, nice box LOL..

hmm, You have one of the first models of F1A4.. in all the machines I've done the minor mods to, I've only seen one other..
They have a bit more of an arse on them and the ribs on the front panels.. couple internal differences.. nothing major..
 
Mozzie ... good to hear your success story, but can you tell me what is the source of power that drives your amp and in all honesty are you happy with it, would you from the little test time suggest alternatives or mods ?

Cheers Pete.
 
Mozzie probably has a different answer, but..

Class D amp + 3.6v 600mAh Ni-MH (from jaycar/dicksmith).. will run for weeks.. 4w output @ 8Ohm

just a thought.
 
My version for the SD... also got a couple different units for the F1, and GPX.. All class D amps though..

1406719641_booster2.jpg
 
Lazy T ... Thank you for the info, it was personal curiosity as to whether the detectors power pack was involved or not.. I have always hated cables and double adaptors .. you know like a older HiFi stacking of individual modules with cabling all over the place that gets caught up... a all in one device I like so any form of streamlining has me prick up my ears..

Cheers Pete.
 
Yeah i feel the same way, I'm going to shorten the lead from the amp to the detector dont want it getting caught on a tree or something..

Also working on an all in one, battery system, and amp... something like the pocket rocket by coiltek, but hopefully smaller..
 
LazyTrommel said:
Excellent, nice box LOL..

hmm, You have one of the first models of F1A4.. in all the machines I've done the minor mods to, I've only seen one other..
They have a bit more of an arse on them and the ribs on the front panels.. couple internal differences.. nothing major..

Dunno if I have an early one. Serial is 52999.
Changed the box the amp's in. Wanted to see how small I could get it while still running with a 9v battery.
88mm X 50mm X 20mm. Have to get some velcro so I can do away with the zippy tie. Happy with the
little unit and time'll tell how power hungry it'll be.
1406725925_img_0717.jpg

1406725952_img_0718.jpg
 
I like the box, I looked at those but my amp PCB is 2.5cm x 2.5cm waste of space..
What i like about the class D amps is, they run well of as low as 3v... picked up some tiny 3.6v 600mAh rechargeable packs... last pretty much forever..
 
LazyTrommel said:
I like the box, I looked at those but my amp PCB is 2.5cm x 2.5cm waste of space..
What i like about the class D amps is, they run well of as low as 3v... picked up some tiny 3.6v 600mAh rechargeable packs... last pretty much forever..
Sending for a few class D's to have a play with. Ultra minis supposed to be, 2cm X 1.8cm.
Like to see how small can get this to and still have its' own power supply. Like the idea of the little 3.6v packs.
 
Yep, the little 3 cell 3.6v packs saved me using voltage regulators.. I've actually run the battery down to 2.6v before it drops out..

My smallest box is 83x53x31.. everything fits nicely with room for 2x 9v batteries.. can't find anything smaller, though I'm looking at some smaller diecast aluminium boxes..

something like the coiltek mini booster.. except homefully smaller and slimline.

1406731204_class_d_board.jpg
 

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