Shaker Table

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Hello every one, looking for feedback from all you hard rock miners out there...
1.- I want to build a shaker table to extract fine gold from quartz rock, my first thoughts are twin linear bearing rails to run on with a fiberglass 1800 x 1200 deck. has anyone gone down this path previously.
2.- mixing bowl or vat anyone fed there extraction system with a wet fed pre mix set up via a pump or gravity.
3.- the small smelting kits of ebay -- the twin torch set up anyone have any feedback ?
 
Hello guys.. thanks for the Link frank I have looked at your build looks very nice. I have a few questions as usual
1. what bearings are you using for the deck to run on ??
2. feed rate - is it for samples /clean up /production etc
3.what have you done in the way of rebound - does it get to the end of the cams stroke and return or does it have some assistance eg bump stop
I am looking a building a table for super fine gold, I have never had a go at building one as yet.
 
Hi Diggin
I got the rollers from a bearing place,they have lots of those types.
Down the track I will be looking at some kind of feed mechanism,have a look at keene,they have got a set up for a panning bowles.
The table knocks a spring mechanism,that I got from Bunnings,but the table moves,by a cam,with total movement of about 20mm.
A fiberglass top is a good idea,I used aluminium,and cut it with one of those litttle 3 inch little hand saws,but I think I would use fiberglass if I did it again.

Backcreek have not got round to the video yet,but at the moment I have got a lot things pressing,but that is on the board,have only used the table a couple times,need to adjust it a bit,but it does work well.

Regards For now Frank
 
Anyone care to link or explain how this works, have googled and think I understand but am struggling with how the gold is seperated .. does it work on the same principle as bumping your hand on side of pan to bring flecks up the side ?
 
Hi Madworld
The table is set with on angle so the water and lighter material can flow away from the taps,but also the table is also set that the material has to move up the table that is where the knocking action makes the heavy material move along the grooves to the buckets.

This might help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNbL1hOKHmE

Regards for now Frank
 
Thanks for the info Frank... I tracked down a fiberglass place here who supplied me a sheet 2400 x 1800 of 10mm thick fiberglass sheet left over from a swimming pool job. going to make up a couple of top decks and then they will gel coat them for me all up about 320 dollars for the pair. then have to mount them to a frame etc.
 
thedigger said:
Hi Madworld
The table is set with on angle so the water and lighter material can flow away from the taps,but also the table is also set that the material has to move up the table that is where the knocking action makes the heavy material move along the grooves to the buckets.

This might help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNbL1hOKHmE

Regards for now Frank

Thanks for sharing this Frank
looks like it is a hell of a lot quicker than my miller table
cheers Kane
 
Hi Diggin
I read some where in my reseach that you should and not make the table to heavy,so 10mm thick fiber glass is heavy.
I will try and find that imfo and post it,so you have to be a bit careful with these projects.

Regards for now Frank
 
Hiya Frank I will chase them up and see what else they have.. might be a case of what they have laying around and want to move on... I have seen a few big pieces around the side will have a look and see how thick they are..thanks digging it
 
Would 4mm aluminium sheet not be a better idea and get some 1.5mm grooves machined into it ? Strong, and a heck of a lot lighter than 10mm glass
 
Hi Madworld
I changed to aluminium,because I used arcylic sheet and found that it started to buckle with a bit of sun on it,even thou I had screwed it down.
I used a 3mm sheet,and cut the grooves with one those powered 3 inch saws,with a straight edge clamped down,but you have to be careful,do not try and go back and correct small mistakes,and at the ends use a small dremmel to get the rise out of the channel.The depth of the cut no more than 1mm.
From what I have read is that the channels will catch the finer gold,and also the material should be 50 plus mesh.
For the frame I had aluminium frame made,they did a spot on job,really square,then attached a 9mm water plywood,and then sealed it.

Hope this helps
Regards for now Frank
 
I have thought about the use of aluminium, but not having much experience in the wear factor of the material and as the coarseness of the ore I am going to treat is why I did not look at it I have a small sheet 1200 x 800 of stainless I have been playing with which has good wear charicteristics.
 
Hello everyone back from three days of working on the lease, sampling is taking a lot of time . Frank I appreciate your comments they generate some very good thoughts.... my reason for looking at fiberglass or stainless is I am going to try a flat deck and will be running high tonnage over a long time and perhaps wrongly have thought aluminium would wear some what due to its softness, I guess more tests would give me the answer and the real picture.
 
hey diggin it,
if you look up "How to make a coffee can forge" on youtube (I can't post links yet) there are some good DIY furnaces that would do what your looking for depending on the quality of the colour you're trying to smelt.

I could possibly give you some feedback on smelting tips if you have any general questions.
 
hello once again thanks for the link to the coffee can forge its amazing how simple things can be for some of the process. would be nice to be in the position to smelt something but all I am up to is working out the lay of the land and where to go from there --building equipment moth at the moment till holidays start
 

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