generators and battery chargeing.

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the issue on off grid power is extremely confusing, why do I say this, just bought a couple of AGM batteries, I chose the AGM over the SLA type battery, supposedly you can lay them on their side no leaks no problems. First question was can my you beaut CHRISTIE generator charge the AGM. So heaps of google research reveals that the AGM do not like the heat so replacing the existing car battery is not recommended, then the charge rate , something like 2.3 amps or volts per cell 2.4 will overcharge and shorten battery life , moderator said this is making him dissy, believe me I FEEL THE SAME DC to DC charging, solar panels red arc genies there was a site called battery university that had some info on
batteries and interesting theories , just like the subject on recharging a dead battery kids make it look so easy on you tube,
looks like like i am in for an interesting time reading
all about the battery and charging solutions offered on this forum
 
To answer your Qs

As I've said before, any 240VAC generator in the 1 to 2 kVA range that has a 12 VDC output, has exactly that 12.0V output, it is a power source only. An AGM needs 14.5V to be charged properly, not charging properly will shorten their life and or is dangerous.

Next, AGMs are heat sensitive - They are OK in a Caravan, Camper, or rear of a car, but it is not recommended to put them under the bonnet. (I know some do)

Next, do not use the garage charger that many have for their wet cell car battery, they are mostly trickle chargers and run at about 13.8V like most alternators.

Next, I would advise not charging from the alternator for the above reason of V.

Last an AGM should be charged with a 3 stage (Boost, Absorption, Float) charger at a minimum, and at between 10 and 20% of battery capacity.

*** example - 100AH AGM charger = 10 to 20 amps. or if in parallel, 2 x 100AH AGMs charger = 20 to 40 amps. etc.
 
OK, more ATM questions. I bought a 160w solar panel off e bay.....built for oz conditions blah blah blah, pretty cheaply built, but I've got it now, so that's that. I used it at Tennant creek, and it seemed to charge my AGM OK. It dosnt have anything special on it, just a panel, a small regulator on the back, and alligator clips to the battery. Are these set ups OK for the battery, or am I wrecking my battery?
 
davent said:
OK, more ATM questions. I bought a 160w solar panel off e bay.....built for oz conditions blah blah blah, pretty cheaply built, but I've got it now, so that's that. I used it at Tennant creek, and it seemed to charge my AGM OK. It dosnt have anything special on it, just a panel, a small regulator on the back, and alligator clips to the battery. Are these set ups OK for the battery, or am I wrecking my battery?
Click to expand...
I looked into this awhile ago Dave & found that most of the cheap (or even not so cheap) panels don't have a regulator that has output voltage needed for AGM's or is not adjustable to suit them.
My research led me to believe that the best option to optimally maintain your battery/s is a good DC to DC charger/battery management system such as Ctek D250S & Smartpass etc.? The type/specs would depend on your set up i.e. how many batteries, required amps etc. as Condor indicated above.
It's a bloody minefield & can start getting expensive for a good/correct set up. My thoughts are I'll spend the money once & have it done right when I do get it done. Under charging & not maintaining fairly expensive auxiliary batteries correctly isn't ideal or cost effective IMO.
 
Davent

There are numerous portable panel setups, some really good, some good and some not so good. In the main, the output voltage of most of the small regulators will sense the battery is fully charge, but are regulated to 13.8 or so volts. Check the panel there maybe a small ident tag with the output details.

At 13.8V it will charge your battery, it won't "damage" it. However, the 2 criteria for charging is enough V at certain points of the charge cycle and enough, but not too much Amps (or Watts). The other effect on battery life is how deep you draw before recharge and how often.

Many years ago, I had 2 x 100AH AGMs in my 1st caravan, I forgot to take into account the load of the Inverter, in other words drew too much and too often. These batteries were buggered after just over 2 years, an expensive lesson.

The next battery I replaced was a 100AH AGM spare in that van, a spare in my next van and then my Auxiliary in my 4x4. I had learned my lesson re charging and it lasted a few months short of 10 years.

My point here is that if you abuse an AGM either by poor charging or overloading, you get maybe 2 yrs, done properly you get 5 times longer. $$$ wise and as an example in round figures, an AGM @$300 plus a good charger at $300 = $600 over 10yrs = $60/yr.

You don't need to be a genius to work out the cost of 4-5 AGMs over 10 yrs, because you only spent $50 on a cheap charger.
 
Ok, so I bought a charger, 12v, 10A 7 stage, manual states suitable to charge agm batteries.

However, when selecting what sort of battery to charge on the charger itself, it gives you the option of, Lead acid, Calcium, or Gel.....which one to use when charging agm? Gel?
 
OOOOOOO that's a tricky question Dave, an AGM battery is a different to a gel, No ones have ever asked me that one. So I'd like to know to
I'd say to run it on gel but????? Most battery guys if you asked them that you'd get a dumb blank look while he try's to make up a satisfactory answer so not to look stupid, An AGM different to all three but simular to gel but not
What brand is it and part number and I'll try find out for you
I've watch my ex boss eff three AGM's from incorrect charging he's lukky he is a special person and the company keept true to replacing them for him but that could have also been because of Variety Club sponsorship
Charge rate needs to be a consistent 14.7v but NOT TO BE OVERCHARGED
 
I think that chargers have regulated outputs and you should place a proper batt. charger in between the generator and the battery so as not to go overvoltage.
 
AGM is virtually the same as Gel but more refined in it's operation. The electrolyte can get closer to the plates thereby making it more efficient.
 
Oops my bad!...and Cairns is still warm!, but if I have this right, both gel and agm require 3 stage charging bulk, absorbtion, and maintenance. Thats what I use mine on.
Click to expand...
The new smart battery chargers I don't think they are that trustworthy as you don't know what the hell is going on with it just what led in on :lol: I've never put one on a AGM so not sure what setting suits, My ex boss ruined three in about a year and a half but the charger didn't have gel setting, it might be fine on gel setting but thats an expensive battery to screw with and if overcharged or undercharged it screws the life up, if the charger had a AGM setting then I would believe but.....hmmmm I would think the instruction booklet on the charger should hold the truth but maybe not
MY autoelect mate would know for certain but need battery type and charger type models.
I had to sell some of my chargers off but when I lent a Ctec of one of the panel shops I was contracting to it effed my battery so since then I don't like trade tools that include the words: Smart, Tradesman, or master in their name :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I don't want to see him ruin it
Sydney is going to be a hot one this year going on the last couple of days
 
IMO, I would use the Lead Acid setting. The AGM's chemistry is much the same as your standard Lead Acid battery, but instead of free sulphuric acid between lead plates, the acid is absorbed in fibreglass matting between the plates, which prevents spillage.
1. For a Flooded Cell Sealed Lead Acid, the Typical absorption voltage range 14.2 to 14.5 volts, typical float voltage range 13.2 to 13.5 volts.
2. For an AGM (typical absorption voltage range 14.4 to 15.0 volts, typical float voltage range 13.2 to 13.8 volts)
3. Calcium gets a much higher voltage over parts of its cycle (around 16V),
4. Gel (with silicon emulsifier) requires a much lower voltage (typical absorption voltage range 14.0 to 14.2 volts, typical float voltage range 13.1 to 13.3 volts).
So, from the above, an AGM' s are most similar to your flooded cell lead acid, but as Condor stated above, an alternator or your average garage battery charger won't fully charge and AGM (with its higher absorption range), but they'll get you 80+%. You need a newer multi-stage charger (minimum 3 stage) to get the rest.
Edit comment: pretty much in-line with the post above from Nightjar. Gel cycle is too low in Voltage except in standby use.
 
Many "Smart Chargers" including the Redarc BCDC range have a setting AGM/GEL as the same setting. Although there is a slight difference in "Best" charging for GEL and AGM, they can both be charged from that same setting. Calcium, Wet Cell, Lithium all have different charging requirements to GEL/AGM and should be charged from their respective charger setting.

As I stated previously, "AGM/GEL should be charged at between 10 and 20% of battery capacity.
 

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