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#1

the duck
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From: Yarraville West, VIC
Joined: 18 January 2013
Posts: 2,052
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21 January 2013 01:38 pm

im not a gemstone collector but am interested i saw a video the other day where they were walking up streams at night with a uv torch looking for gemstones anyone heard of this before


Detectors owned and used Compass, Whites, Garret ground hog,Ace 250, Ace 350, AT Pro, Tesoro Vaquero, Tesoro Sand Shark, Tesoro lobo, Fischer Gold Bug 2, Tesoro Tejon, Tesoro Cortes, Minelab GPX 4000 and 4500, Minelab Etrac

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#2

WalnLiz
Gone Walkabout
From: Australia, NSW
Joined: 20 January 2013
Posts: 3,533
Gone Walkabout
21 January 2013 04:54 pm

Only ever seen it done on Opal mullock heaps....the uv makes the potch stand out and they're much easier to spot. I recon that bloke was scouting about looking for ...drop bears...or maybe illegally spearing fish.


Gold Gem and Treasure hunters from Canberra......run minelab gpx 5000 and 3 gold and gem Hi-bankers...life's short ..don't waste it.

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#3

the duck
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From: Yarraville West, VIC
Joined: 18 January 2013
Posts: 2,052
Member
21 January 2013 06:38 pm

may just be minerals have a look here
http://geology.com/articles/fluorescent-minerals/


Detectors owned and used Compass, Whites, Garret ground hog,Ace 250, Ace 350, AT Pro, Tesoro Vaquero, Tesoro Sand Shark, Tesoro lobo, Fischer Gold Bug 2, Tesoro Tejon, Tesoro Cortes, Minelab GPX 4000 and 4500, Minelab Etrac

#4

Nugget
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Joined: 27 November 2012
Posts: 6,018
Member
21 January 2013 06:45 pm

That's amazing duck, I never knew such minerals existed.


Current setup: Minelab Gold Monster 1000, Garrett AT Pro, Garrett Pro-Pointer AT, Garrett Digging Tool.
Previously owned: Minelab GPX 4500, Whites TDI Pro, Garrett AT Gold, Garrett ACE 400i.

#5

WalnLiz
Gone Walkabout
From: Australia, NSW
Joined: 20 January 2013
Posts: 3,533
Gone Walkabout
21 January 2013 06:55 pm

you'd be right there Duck....lots of minerals would show up easier on UV.....don't chase minerals much as mostly into the gemstones we can facet and form into pendants / rings etc. Liz is a keen jewelery designer and we like to make the pieces from the gold and gems we find ourselves..only stones we chase are...opals, sapphires ,garnets ,zircons ,Peridot ,topaz ,and the full range of colored quartz crystals.
        If ever you hear of any areas that contain these I'd be grateful for the info....Cheers Wal.


Gold Gem and Treasure hunters from Canberra......run minelab gpx 5000 and 3 gold and gem Hi-bankers...life's short ..don't waste it.

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#6

Heatho
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From: Sydney, NSW
Joined: 29 April 2013
Posts: 9,878
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01 May 2013 04:04 pm

Some diamonds will fluoresce under UV light also. There are supposed to be deposits around Oberon, could be a good way to test suspected diamonds.


Minelab GPX 5000, SDC2300, CTX3030, Pro-Find-25, patience, lot's of patience.

#7

Dughug
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Joined: 27 January 2013
Posts: 255
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01 May 2013 09:45 pm

We often get the UV light out for night fossicking when on the Zircon field at Mud Tanks - Harts Range NT- this is successful in finding the cutters left behind by other fossickers- We'll be back there at the end of the month so if you see  purple / uv lights they are likely to be the missus & me not Min-Min lights

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#8

Dogmatic
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From: Hunter valley, NSW
Joined: 27 January 2013
Posts: 443
Member
01 May 2013 10:22 pm

Thanks for a great post duck.  I have a UV torch that I will make sure I throw in next time I go out.


Whites TDI Pro OZ series, Whites SPP, MinelabSovereign GT, Minelab Pro-Find, SYM 12x45 Half n Half sluice.

#9

goldierocks
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Joined: 10 January 2015
Posts: 290
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03 December 2016 02:20 pm

I just posted elsewhere (forget where but search me) re dangers of UV and protection, different wavelengths (some is highly dangerous) and types of lamp, buying lamps and goggles, and minerals that fluoresce. You can get a powerful lamp of both short and long wavelength, filtered, plus goggles (and gloves of course) for under $100 (eg Prospectors Supplies in NSW).

Your torch UV will possibly be useless - you need more than 4W power and it should be filtered wavelength.

It is not potch but precious opal that UV tends to be used for - most at Coober Pedy fluoresces but only some at Lightning Ridge (varies by field) - a plant with a conveyor and an operator in a dark room with UV light re-works dumps at Coober Pedy.


Robert Benchley...
I have kleptomania, but when it gets bad, I take something for it.

#10

goldierocks
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Joined: 10 January 2015
Posts: 290
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03 December 2016 02:23 pm

see Gemstones and Minerals / Gemstone fossicking in Vic


Robert Benchley...
I have kleptomania, but when it gets bad, I take something for it.

#11

LoneWolf
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From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 658
Member
03 December 2016 10:27 pm

goldierocks wrote:

I just posted elsewhere (forget where but search me) re dangers of UV and protection, different wavelengths (some is highly dangerous) and types of lamp, buying lamps and goggles, and minerals that fluoresce. You can get a powerful lamp of both short and long wavelength, filtered, plus goggles (and gloves of course) for under $100 (eg Prospectors Supplies in NSW).

Your torch UV will possibly be useless - you need more than 4W power and it should be filtered wavelength.

It is not potch but precious opal that UV tends to be used for - most at Coober Pedy fluoresces but only some at Lightning Ridge (varies by field) - a plant with a conveyor and an operator in a dark room with UV light re-works dumps at Coober Pedy.

My UV/Black light torch shows my Collection of Fluorescent Minerals well.... Only cost $10 from fleabay...And it's pretty good in the field too.... There's nothing in my collection that doesn't "Glow" under this Torch.... Although, some only glow under SWUV, others under LWUV or both and only a few under Black Light... Also, not all minerals/gems on the list will glow.... I have two pieces of Magano calcite, both from Broken Hill but only one glows roll .... Every Gem Show I go to, My Torch comes too glasses

LoneWolf....

Last edited by LoneWolf (03 December 2016 10:31 pm)

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#12

Wishfull
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From: Yorke Peninsla S.A., SA
Joined: 27 April 2016
Posts: 1,187
Member
03 December 2016 10:40 pm

LoneWolf wrote:
goldierocks wrote:

I just posted elsewhere (forget where but search me) re dangers of UV and protection, different wavelengths (some is highly dangerous) and types of lamp, buying lamps and goggles, and minerals that fluoresce. You can get a powerful lamp of both short and long wavelength, filtered, plus goggles (and gloves of course) for under $100 (eg Prospectors Supplies in NSW).

Your torch UV will possibly be useless - you need more than 4W power and it should be filtered wavelength.

It is not potch but precious opal that UV tends to be used for - most at Coober Pedy fluoresces but only some at Lightning Ridge (varies by field) - a plant with a conveyor and an operator in a dark room with UV light re-works dumps at Coober Pedy.

My UV/Black light torch shows my Collection of Fluorescent Minerals well.... Only cost $10 from fleabay...And it's pretty good in the field too.... There's nothing in my collection that doesn't "Glow" under this Torch.... Although, some only glow under SWUV, others under LWUV or both and only a few under Black Light... Also, not all minerals/gems on the list will glow.... I have two pieces of Magano calcite, both from Broken Hill but only one glows roll .... Every Gem Show I go to, My Torch comes too glasses

LoneWolf....

Lonewolf I would like some more info on your tourch please make etc.


Me..GOLD, GOLD...Boss Mmmm do you think we have the right man for the job ?
Turbo gold pan, Ancient 1996 Garret Scorpion gold stinger, Minelab GPX 4500, SDC2300, Detecnix wader Li pinpointer, home made pick, 750 mm Walco pick, understanding wife, most of the time.

#13

LoneWolf
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From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 658
Member
03 December 2016 11:17 pm

Just search for Black light Torches on fleabay.. Prices vary but most are the same.. If You want UV, they are expensive... Black light torches aren't.... Mine has about 50 Leds and cost $10 from China..(second add on page is my type). but scroll down and you will find cheaper ones...Try and get one from Hong Kong, as anything out of China takes months to arrive now... Due to their Customs and the South China Sea crap..... Sorry im not good with link thingys... roll ....
They are also good for checking $50 notes and next time, take one to a Motel, to check you get ''Clean'' sheets too lol

LoneWolf....

Last edited by LoneWolf (03 December 2016 11:35 pm)

1 user likes this post: Wishfull

#14

Heatho
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From: Sydney, NSW
Joined: 29 April 2013
Posts: 9,878
Moderator
04 December 2016 09:05 am

I got the Streamlight 3C-UV twin task torch, heavy duty, it's very good, makes Rubies glow nice and bright. I mainly only use it for authenticating rubies in jewellery, not all of them will flouresce but most do. Also if there are multiple diamonds in rings or bracelets usually one in every 5-8 will flouresce a milky white colour. None of the zircons I've found will flouresce but some Aussie ones are supposed to.

Rubies without UV
1480802303_20140504_174645.jpg
With UV
1480802303_20140504_174719.jpg
1480802518_20150528_172241.jpg
1480802519_20151108_183309.jpg


Minelab GPX 5000, SDC2300, CTX3030, Pro-Find-25, patience, lot's of patience.

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#15

Wishfull
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From: Yorke Peninsla S.A., SA
Joined: 27 April 2016
Posts: 1,187
Member
04 December 2016 11:21 am

Thanks LoneWolf I will look into that. I have heard that you should check your sheets with a black light. Bit of a worry that.


Me..GOLD, GOLD...Boss Mmmm do you think we have the right man for the job ?
Turbo gold pan, Ancient 1996 Garret Scorpion gold stinger, Minelab GPX 4500, SDC2300, Detecnix wader Li pinpointer, home made pick, 750 mm Walco pick, understanding wife, most of the time.

#16

LoneWolf
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From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 658
Member
04 December 2016 11:40 am

smile Heatho, Rubies and Magano Calcite are my fav wink I have even gone to the extent of making a "Cave'' out of expanding foam in a box to display my Beauty's.... Next project is a larger Cave out of a corner TV cabinet.... Shame anything that 'Glows' is expensive... but I have about 20 pieces and the collection is growing... I also have one piece out of three buckets of Fluorite from The Gulf area near Emmaville that Glows Blue...:D

LoneWolf.....

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#17

LoneWolf
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From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 658
Member
04 December 2016 12:04 pm

lol Only if you stay in Motels Wishfull... Good for checking if the missus is cleaning well too lol ... Seriously tho they have many uses and mine goes out camping, Gem shows, Fishing and Fossicking....
You can purchase on fleabay, a Black light Torch and 6 different Minerals in a 'Kit' to get you started for about $100.... That's how I started.. now I have around 20 pieces and growing....
Interesting World the Fluorescent..... Some even Glow after I have broken them with a hammer or cut with a saw .... You can even 'enhance' the Reaction by placing some types of rocks in an oven and heat to around 400 deg for a few hours, then let them cool naturally.... Most Magano Calcite has been treated this way. wink ..

LoneWolf....

Last edited by LoneWolf (04 December 2016 12:05 pm)

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#18

goldierocks
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Joined: 10 January 2015
Posts: 290
Member
04 December 2016 12:18 pm

LoneWolf wrote:
goldierocks wrote:

I just posted elsewhere (forget where but search me) re dangers of UV and protection, different wavelengths (some is highly dangerous) and types of lamp, buying lamps and goggles, and minerals that fluoresce. You can get a powerful lamp of both short and long wavelength, filtered, plus goggles (and gloves of course) for under $100 (eg Prospectors Supplies in NSW).

Your torch UV will possibly be useless - you need more than 4W power and it should be filtered wavelength.

It is not potch but precious opal that UV tends to be used for - most at Coober Pedy fluoresces but only some at Lightning Ridge (varies by field) - a plant with a conveyor and an operator in a dark room with UV light re-works dumps at Coober Pedy.

My UV/Black light torch shows my Collection of Fluorescent Minerals well.... Only cost $10 from fleabay...And it's pretty good in the field too.... There's nothing in my collection that doesn't "Glow" under this Torch.... Although, some only glow under SWUV, others under LWUV or both and only a few under Black Light... Also, not all minerals/gems on the list will glow.... I have two pieces of Magano calcite, both from Broken Hill but only one glows roll .... Every Gem Show I go to, My Torch comes too glasses

LoneWolf....

The main issues are - (i) the lesser range of wavelength that you may have (if your manganocalcite doesn't fluoresce this can be a reason) - many cheap and light sources are designed to only produce UV at the very end of the range close to visible, for "fixing" nail varnish in salons and glue (ii) the power (need more total darkness to view with weak wattage and won't "excite" the specimen as strongly - the amount of coloured light you see emitted from the specimen is proportional to the amount of energy you shine on it), (iii) the lack of a filter, so that it is actually shining a small bit of visible light on the specimen not just pure UV. (iv) danger - how sure are you that the cheap Chinese lamp it is not emitting strongly in the dangerous range that will burn your eyes (you can get around this by always wearing gloves and goggles, but most people only do this for lamps they know emit in the dangerous range.

Read my blog that I mentioned for more details....well under $100 will get you an excellent full wavelength portable and 240V rechargeable lamp plus UV safety specs (I paid about $68 plus postage from a rapid NSW Ozzie supplier) - if you are keen is it worth having less for your hobby?


Robert Benchley...
I have kleptomania, but when it gets bad, I take something for it.

#19

B5MECH
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From: Yamums, NSW
Joined: 25 January 2016
Posts: 2,921
Member
04 December 2016 03:05 pm

Funny this subject came up, ordered one of these the other day smile
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271717052714 … EBIDX%3AIT
china snail post roll but best price on that torch
can pay more for a case battery and charger

Last edited by B5MECH (04 December 2016 03:06 pm)


A Crystal Ball....a Magic Wand....a Weegie Board....two Dowsing Rods
..............................And lots of Bee's.................................

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#20

Wishfull
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From: Yorke Peninsla S.A., SA
Joined: 27 April 2016
Posts: 1,187
Member
04 December 2016 05:34 pm

Just ordered one of those B5mech they apparently are also good for finding coolant leaks in vehicles as the glycol shows up.


Me..GOLD, GOLD...Boss Mmmm do you think we have the right man for the job ?
Turbo gold pan, Ancient 1996 Garret Scorpion gold stinger, Minelab GPX 4500, SDC2300, Detecnix wader Li pinpointer, home made pick, 750 mm Walco pick, understanding wife, most of the time.

1 user likes this post: B5MECH

#21

goldierocks
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Joined: 10 January 2015
Posts: 290
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05 December 2016 04:02 pm

B5MECH - I hope you are satisfied with what you bought. It is advertised as 5W there but 3W on other sites - anything around 4W would normally be pretty useless (too weak). UV light is the wavelength = UV-A is 400-315 nm, UV-B is 315-280 nm, UV-C is 280-100 nm wavelength. The torch you have bought is a total range of 395-410 nm, and 400-410 nm is not UV at all but visible light (so it is an unfiltered UV source that will make it less effective because of visible light interference). And you are only getting 395 - 400 nm in the UV range - a total of 5 nm for UV that ranges from 100-400 nm, so you are getting only one sixtieth of the range of UV light, I would be surprised if rubies would fluoresce at all with the torch, as most fluoresce around 300 nm. It is a bit like buying a small electronics kit solderng iron to do a welding job - probably won't do anything useful unless you are working with tinplate. That is why I posted the details on what is needed - but good luck. The fact that something like that works with, say, manganocalcite, does not mean it will necessarily work with, say, ruby or scheelite, as each minerasl has its own fluorescence range.


Robert Benchley...
I have kleptomania, but when it gets bad, I take something for it.

#22

B5MECH
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From: Yamums, NSW
Joined: 25 January 2016
Posts: 2,921
Member
05 December 2016 04:07 pm

Thanks roll I didn't buy it to go running around the bush with it just a small uv light hmm


A Crystal Ball....a Magic Wand....a Weegie Board....two Dowsing Rods
..............................And lots of Bee's.................................

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#23

LoneWolf
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From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 658
Member
05 December 2016 04:44 pm

As I said before, My Collection of Fluorescent Minerals show up under the Torch that I have... I have, a few Zircons, 10 x Mangano Calcite all but 2 Glow,2 different types of Calcite, 3 different types of Fluorite, Ruby in Zoisite , Ruby in Fuschite and some things I can't remember... I only buy Minerals using my torch... That way I know that they will 'glow' in my Cave... All the Real Rubies I have seen at Gemshows, Glow under my torch and most, not All of other known Fluorescent minerals do too....... Its fun shining my torch at peoples stalls... Some know what im doing and say "Check this out" and others ask WHATS THAT? smile .... Not that I mind cause I always have a piece of Mangano Calcite to ''show' people and see their reaction to something new... roll ..
In the Field it is great for sitting down and going through Mullock heaps at night... It could be better for walking up creeks but it will do me..... wink

LoneWolf....

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#24

LoneWolf
Member
From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 658
Member
05 December 2016 05:14 pm

The Cave....1480918180_image_6178000208.jpg

Not a good Pic but ...1480918277_image_6245066112.jpg

LoneWolf...

1 user likes this post: Heatho

#25

goldierocks
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Joined: 10 January 2015
Posts: 290
Member
05 December 2016 06:00 pm

I just checked and ruby is one of the few minerals that you might get a reasonable response from with that torch (ie some rubies, not all). I see some torches are 9W - that would be much better, and one with a range of say 400-300 nm would make about 70% of fluorescent minerals fluoresce, but with a range 400-280 nm almost any florescent mineral will fluoresce.

B5MECH - there are two different issues (I work with UV light):

(1) wattage - is it powerful enough? So yes, if you can use it inside in a perfectly dark room, close to the specimen, 4W will probably be adequate for some minerals that can flouresce in the short wavelength range that torch has.

(2) wavelength - will it fluoresce at all? This is important, for example, a ruby may fluoresce around 400 nm (few minerals will though) but a mineral like scheelite will not give any fluorescence whatsoever, no matter how high the wattage of your lamp. It has nothing to do with a weak or strong response, but with whether you get any response at all - not how well will it fluoresce, but CAN it flouresce AT ALL at that wavelength. Any particular mineral has to have light of a certain wavelength shining on it before it can fluoresce at all (fortunately it can be a bit of a range of wavelength), and the wavelength is different for different minerals. The problem is that people buy a torch and shine it on a particular mineral and it fluoresces and say "great, it works well" - but they don't realise that it is of limited range of wavelength that doesn't work for other minerals. Anyway, good luck.

In the list below, lw usually means in the range 400-315 nm, sw in the range 315-280 nm (and should only be used with protective goggles), The torch you got just barely scrapes into the edge of the lw range and not at all in the sw range.


Ultraviolet Fluorescence Chart

Abbreviations used in this chart:

lw long wavelength fluorescence
sw short wavelength fluorescence
The underlined section for some species and varieties (where applicable) indicates the general fluorescence encountered most often. Additional colors are also included. This does not mean, however, that all stones of a particular species or variety will show the fluorescence indicated for that stone.

FACTORS THAT MAY CAUSE DIFFERENCES, IN FLUORESCENCE:

Chemical impurities
Matrix and / or other foreign materials combined in or on this material.
Strain in the structure of the material
Isomorphous replacement

Please-note that it may be necessary to raise the stone up to the ultraviolet unit itself to obtain the required intensity of ultraviolet radiation necessary to produce the fluorescence indicated for a particular stone.

Amber None to yellowish green to orangey-yellow (lw) (lw works best). Also may fluoresce white, yellow, green or blue (lw), Fluorescence generally weaker under sw.
Beryl Emerald: (lw works best) none but may fluoresce weak orangey-red to weak red in very fine colors (lw and sw).
Oiled emerald: Oil shows yellowish to orangey-yellow(lw); weaker to non(sw). Oil will be noted in fractures.
Aquamarine: None
Blue Beryl: Green (sw).
Colorless: None to pale yellow or pink (lw and sw).
Golden: None.
Morganite: None to weak light red to violetish red (lw and sw).
Red: None
Synthetic Emerald Most synthetic emerald fluoresces a dull brick red (lw and sw) (lw works best). Some Gilsons fluoresce a weak to moderate orangey-red (lw and sw) to a moderate yellowish green (lw and sw). Gilson Group-III is inert.
Chalcedony All varieties: Generally inert (lw and sw); however, some may fluoresce a weak to intense yellowish green (lw and sw).
Chrysoberyl Alexandrite: None to weak red (lw and sw).
Yellow and greenish yellow: None to yellowish green (sw).
Other colors: Generally inert.
Coral White: None to weak to strong bluish white (lw and sw).
Light and dark shades of orange, red and pink: None to orange to pinkish orange (lw and sw).
Ox blood: None to dull deep red (lw and sw).
Corundum Burma ruby: Strong red (lw); moderate red (sw)
Ceylon ruby: Strong orange-red (lw); moderate orange- red (sw).
Siam ruby: Weak-red (lw); weak red to none (sw).
Pink sapphire: Strong orange-red (lw); weak orangey-red (sw).
Orange sapphire: None to strong orange-red (lw). Ceylong yellow sapphire: Moderate orange-red to
orange-yellow (lw); weak red to yellow-orange(sw). Green sapphire: None.
Ceylon blue sapphire: Moderate to strong orange to red (lw); weaker (sw).
Violet and alexandrite-like sapphire: None to moderate to strong red (lw); weaker (sw).
White sapphire: None to weak to strong orange to orange-red (lw and sw).
Brown sapphire : None to weak red (lw and sw). Black sapphire: None.
Colorless sapphire: Orange-red to red to orange (lw and sw).
Blue (dark) sapphire: None to moderate red (lw and sw).
Synthetic Corundum Synthetic ruby (flame fusion): Very strong orangey-red(lw); moderate to Strong orangey-red (sw).
Synthetic ruby (flux fusion): Strong orangey-red (strong, but not quite as strong as flame fusion or highly fluorescent natural material) (lw); orangey-red fluorescence generally stronger than natural, but some material may show zoned area of blue and /or bluish over tint on orangey-red fluorescence (sw).
Synthetic orange sapphire: Very weak orange to red (sw).
Synthetic yellow sapphire: Very weak red (sw).
Synthetic green sapphire: Weak orange (lw); dull brownish red (sw).
Synthetic blue sapphire: Weak to moderate chalky blue to yellowish green (sw).
Synthetic violet sapphire: Strong red (lw); greenish blue (sw).
Synthetic alexandrite-like sapphire: Moderate orange to red (lw and sw); may fluoresce red (lw), mottled blue (sw).
Synthetic colorless sapphire: None to weak bluish white (sw).
Synthetic brown sapphire: None to weak red (lw and sw).
Synthetic pink sapphire: Moderate to strong red (lw); pinkish violet (sw).
Diamond May fluoresce all colors with the exception of violet. General fluorescence is weak to strong blue (lw and sw).
Feldspar Albite: None to very weak brownish red (lw and sw).
Amazonite: None to weak yellowish green (lw). Oligoclase (sunstone): None to weak mottled white (lw and sw).
Transparent yellow orthoclase: None to weak reddish orange (lw and sw).
Orthoclase (moonstone): None to blue (lw); orange (sw). May fluoresce weak pink (lw and sw).
Transparent labradorite: None to weak blue (lw).
Garnet All species and varieties are inert with the exception of:
Transparent green grossluarite: None to moderate red (lw and sw).
Transparent colorless groosularite: None to weak orange or green (sw).
Ivory Weak to strong bluish white (lw and sw).
Jadeite Light green: None to weak white (lw).
Light yellow: None to weak green (lw).
White : None to weak yellow (lw).
Light violet: None to weak white (lw).
Some color-treated lavender: Weak to moderate orange (lw); weaker (sw).
Dark colors: Virtually inert.
Jet Inert.
Lapis Lazuli Generally inert; may fluoresce weak to moderate green or yellowish green (sw). The calcite inclusion may fluoresce pink (lw)
Malachite Inert
Nephite Inert
Opal Body color black or white: None to white to moderate pale blue, green or yellow (lw and sw); may phosphoresce.
Common opal or hyalite: None to strong green or yellowish green (lw and sw); may phosphoresce.
Fire opal: None to moderate greenish brown (lw and sw) ; may phosphoresce.
Pearl Natural: None to strong blue, yellow, green or pink (lw and sw).
Cultured: None to strong blue, yellow, green or pink (lw and sw).
Black pearl: Natural - none to strong red (lw); some may fluoresce light pink, mottled pink and white.
Dyed black: inert to weak white (sw).
Peridot Inert.
Quartz Green aventurine: None to weak grayish green (lw and sw).
Red dyed quartzite: Weak to strong red (lw and sw).
Rose quartz: None to weak red (lw and sw).
All other varieties: Virtually inert
Shell White: None to moderate blue to greenish white (lw and sw).
Tortoise shell: All but dark areas dull bluish green (lw and sw).
Spinel Red, orange and pink: None to weak red to orange-red (sw); weak to strong red and orange (lw).
Near colorless (rare): None to moderate orange to orange-red (lw).
All other colors: Virtually inert.
Synthetic Spinel Colorless: Moderate to strong chalky blue (sw); may fluoresce weak green (lw) and strong greenish blue (sw).
Light blue: Weak to moderate orange (lw); chalky blue (sw).
Medium blue: Strong red (lw); strong bluish white (sw).
Dark blue: Strong red (lw); strong mottled blue (sw).
Light green: Strong yellow (lw).
Dark green: Strong violetish red (lw); strong greenish white (sw).
Alexandrite like: Moderate dull red (lw and sw).
Yellowish green: Strong yellowish green (lw and sw).
Red: Strong red (lw).
Pink: Inert.
Topaz Colorless: None to weak yellow (lw).
Red: Weak brownish Yellow (lw).
Yellow: Weak orange yellow (lw).
Blue: None to moderate yellow (lw).
Brown: Weak orange-yellow (lw).
Pink: Moderate greenish white (sw).
Tourmaline Pink: None to very weak red (lw and sw).
All other colors: Virtually inert.

To quote one site that sums it up well:

"First things first. A "black light" will not work for most fluorescent minerals. Blacklights are long-wave UV. They are usually un-filtered. They are also cheap. Blacklights will make your laundry fluoresce, but they're not much good for most minerals. Do yourself a favor and take the $20 you were going to spend on a "blacklight" and put it toward a good mineral light. (A 4-watt, by the way, is not a good mineral light."

I just checked and the crash in the Australian dollar over the last few years has much more than doubled the price of lamps, so that something that is both sw and lw and with a filter (but only 4W and therefore needs complete darkness) is $180-200. So my advice is pretty useless for most people I guess (but then blacklight torches are mostly just as useless wink

e.g.

https://www.scientrific.com.au/product.php?p=1819

http://www.prospectors.com.au/p-10799-u … -lamp.aspx


Robert Benchley...
I have kleptomania, but when it gets bad, I take something for it.

1 user likes this post: GypsyGoldAu

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