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I probably shouoldnt be surprised tho with these comments about it leaking and stuff .im a watch technician by trade and one thing I have learnt in my time is that its extremely hard to waterproof something ive worked on 20k watches that were supposed to be water proof for 200mtrs and failed .what I find silly is if your gonna buy a $2500 machine why would you just drop it in water after you find something its just insane if you ask me .some of these guys on youtube dropping garret at pros in water made me cringe at stupidity .
I guess I just really wanted the waterproofing for the rain if it ever did when I was out .because a machine that is guaranteed for 10mtrs water proof never truly is .
but yeh so now I have this issue should I get etrac or ctx man this sux lol im gonna be thinking all night
.ive read people saying the ctx just sniffs out jewelry and coins but then ive heard people say the etrac is the old faithful lol .
I guess I just really wanted the waterproofing for the rain if it ever did when I was out .because a machine that is guaranteed for 10mtrs water proof never truly is .
but yeh so now I have this issue should I get etrac or ctx man this sux lol im gonna be thinking all night
.ive read people saying the ctx just sniffs out jewelry and coins but then ive heard people say the etrac is the old faithful lol .
If you are just starting out, use the Factory modes and dig dig dig. The first thing I would modify is to change the Audio to Combine. This will speed up your learning curve I feel
- Joined
- May 16, 2013
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Oh man I feel I have a huge learning curve with this machine...the reason I got it was so that I didn't have to dig gig dig. I don't quite follow how to set up the combined mode as I don't know which area are the good signals and which are are the bad so I can set the tones for each.
Has anyone got a ctx in Sydney, It would be great to pick your brain.
One downside is that Minelab have not done the software for MAC computers.
Has anyone got a ctx in Sydney, It would be great to pick your brain.
One downside is that Minelab have not done the software for MAC computers.
Shelton
Mike Majchrowicz
Just buy Gary Drayton two books about beach hunting with CTX. You have everything about setting CTX.
G
Guest
LJ said:
No matter what you buy and how much you spend you
Still need to dig trash. The sooner people understand
This the less disappointment there is out there.
Its a great machine and a great hobby so take your time
learning the Machine. Nothing beats learning out in the
real world though so the more targets you dig the better
you Will become at it.
In time you may learn how to eliminate trash with more
Experience and knowledge gained.
In the factory Coin mode, all Iron will be eliminated.
Junk that falls into the "accepted" area is aluminium, screw caps, pull tabs, ring pulls, juice lid foil caps etc
You can easily reject a lot of the above, but then you will start to reject other good stuff as well.
All locations are different, some are loaded with aluminium foil, others pulltabs. So you start detecting, dig everything, and then after a while you will see what the
common junk target is. Then you can make a decision to reject it or not.
You can do this two ways:
1. Physically black out the screen where this junk target is coming up at
2. Just ignore the number range of that target.
I will dig everything or cherry pick depending on the location, how easy it is to recover targets, how much time I have, the age of the site etc. etc. You'll develop your own system and gut feel as you go.
Tonnes of good info on the CTX on Minelab's Treasure Talk. You can filter out by detector model on the left hand side.
Just don't try to absorb too much initially.
Nenad
Junk that falls into the "accepted" area is aluminium, screw caps, pull tabs, ring pulls, juice lid foil caps etc
You can easily reject a lot of the above, but then you will start to reject other good stuff as well.
All locations are different, some are loaded with aluminium foil, others pulltabs. So you start detecting, dig everything, and then after a while you will see what the
common junk target is. Then you can make a decision to reject it or not.
You can do this two ways:
1. Physically black out the screen where this junk target is coming up at
2. Just ignore the number range of that target.
I will dig everything or cherry pick depending on the location, how easy it is to recover targets, how much time I have, the age of the site etc. etc. You'll develop your own system and gut feel as you go.
Tonnes of good info on the CTX on Minelab's Treasure Talk. You can filter out by detector model on the left hand side.
Just don't try to absorb too much initially.
Nenad
G
Guest
Nenad thanks for replying.
There is not enough end user shared experience with the 3030 here on this forum.
You see the finds and you read about the recommendations but unfortunately nothing more
or any tips which can help others out.
Nenad can I ask you a question as I have never used a 3030?
1. Would the same target the 3030 id's at 1" come up as the same if the target was say 7" deep?
Lets say an aluminium crew cap comes in at 12.01 at 1" would it be a 12.01 buried at 7" or does this change?
2. How does a solid 3/8 - 1/2" nut come up on the 3030 buried at say 5 "?
Is it discriminated out as iron or would it pop in range of a silver coin or a $1 or $2 coin?
3. The other thing is aluminium screw caps and these vary in size and shape depending if and how they are flattened.
Does anything else come up in this range like coins?
What I like about the 3030 is the id numbers range which is 00.00 rather than 00.
If you ever go hunting with a 3030 at a local park and you decide to shoot a video I would love to see it where
you give some insight when you come across some junk and you know it and how you knew this with some other
finds.
The other bits of junk I come across in parks include nuts and busted padlocks or small bits of copper tube. I hit one
area which was 4 metres x 4 metres and there were aluminium screw caps everywhere.
The key here though is to spend a good 50 hours detecting and using your machine and it will start to teach
you about the targets your finding..
There is not enough end user shared experience with the 3030 here on this forum.
You see the finds and you read about the recommendations but unfortunately nothing more
or any tips which can help others out.
Nenad can I ask you a question as I have never used a 3030?
1. Would the same target the 3030 id's at 1" come up as the same if the target was say 7" deep?
Lets say an aluminium crew cap comes in at 12.01 at 1" would it be a 12.01 buried at 7" or does this change?
2. How does a solid 3/8 - 1/2" nut come up on the 3030 buried at say 5 "?
Is it discriminated out as iron or would it pop in range of a silver coin or a $1 or $2 coin?
3. The other thing is aluminium screw caps and these vary in size and shape depending if and how they are flattened.
Does anything else come up in this range like coins?
What I like about the 3030 is the id numbers range which is 00.00 rather than 00.
If you ever go hunting with a 3030 at a local park and you decide to shoot a video I would love to see it where
you give some insight when you come across some junk and you know it and how you knew this with some other
finds.
The other bits of junk I come across in parks include nuts and busted padlocks or small bits of copper tube. I hit one
area which was 4 metres x 4 metres and there were aluminium screw caps everywhere.
The key here though is to spend a good 50 hours detecting and using your machine and it will start to teach
you about the targets your finding..
- Joined
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- 709
- Reaction score
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here you go wolf
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?86,1930856,1931410
this link will give you a better idea on the screen
http://www.metaldetectingworld.com/ctx3030_tone_id_map.shtml
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?86,1930856,1931410
this link will give you a better idea on the screen
http://www.metaldetectingworld.com/ctx3030_tone_id_map.shtml
G
Guest
Sa_bogan said:
Thank you for that it's greatly appreciated.
Would love to hear a reply from Nanad or anyone else for that matter with the questions I asked.
Its a nice machine and would be a dream to use in the water I would think especially once you have
spent 50 hours using it and you understand the language it speaks with targets under the coil.
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2012
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its hard to answer your questions above as i personally dont take notice at the depth when i find a nut or bolt. im finding the heads off copper nails at 6" and screws even deeper. this is on the beach mind you and the depth does change the target id more so if you use fast recovery and high/low trash settings. In saying that its close if not spot on most of the time no matter the depth, but iron targets can mask portions of the good target or 2 good targes crossing over give a weird read out.
Im glad you liked those links, im waiting for some information on the V3I and your shilling find from the other day.
Im glad you liked those links, im waiting for some information on the V3I and your shilling find from the other day.
G
Guest
There's a method to my madness when I ask a question.
This is why I asked about the depth question.
Nenad stated "Just ignore the number range of that target" which in general is a great way of doing it.
My mind went into over drive and thought about that for a moment. In theory this would be awesome because if lets
say an aluminium screw cap comes up as 12.01 buried at 1" and it comes in at 12.01 buried at 6" then this will be
fantastic because that target can be ignored in most cases, though if the machine is able to achieve this you
can not help a circumstance where the object is on edge and result is different. Nothing is perfect and especially
how a coin lands once dropped.
This is why I asked about the nut related question.
The v3i applies some magic on iron but it depends on how thick the item is though. Still need to do more tests
around this. Have spent about 8 hours using it out on the field and another 6 or so indoors playing with it.
I know if i have an steel bottle cap or a piece of iron due to one of the graphs. It shows it in red which is the higher
frequency and its a squiggly line rather than a sharp line like a coin or piece of aluminium target.
As I was testing I setup the v3i to only accept targets from 60 to 95. I knew when I had a coin because the
green bar graph which represents the 2.5 khz frequency would spike in pin point mode. I got excited as a few coins
started to pop out then I found a nut that fell in the same range and a couple of broken up padlocks. This is
why I asked this question just to learn how other machines operate to the ones I have used or in the process
of learning.
Iron targets don't really worry me not on the v3i anyway because I can speed her up when processing the
target or slow it right down. This is the key with the next generation of detectors which includes the 3030,
v3i and for example the G2. Processing speed is important because if its too slow you need to swing it slow.
The shilling was a surprise. I put the machine in silver mode as a test and it was the 2nd target I dug. My first
silver though I have dug heaps of pennies and half pennies.
This is why I asked about the depth question.
Nenad stated "Just ignore the number range of that target" which in general is a great way of doing it.
My mind went into over drive and thought about that for a moment. In theory this would be awesome because if lets
say an aluminium screw cap comes up as 12.01 buried at 1" and it comes in at 12.01 buried at 6" then this will be
fantastic because that target can be ignored in most cases, though if the machine is able to achieve this you
can not help a circumstance where the object is on edge and result is different. Nothing is perfect and especially
how a coin lands once dropped.
This is why I asked about the nut related question.
The v3i applies some magic on iron but it depends on how thick the item is though. Still need to do more tests
around this. Have spent about 8 hours using it out on the field and another 6 or so indoors playing with it.
I know if i have an steel bottle cap or a piece of iron due to one of the graphs. It shows it in red which is the higher
frequency and its a squiggly line rather than a sharp line like a coin or piece of aluminium target.
As I was testing I setup the v3i to only accept targets from 60 to 95. I knew when I had a coin because the
green bar graph which represents the 2.5 khz frequency would spike in pin point mode. I got excited as a few coins
started to pop out then I found a nut that fell in the same range and a couple of broken up padlocks. This is
why I asked this question just to learn how other machines operate to the ones I have used or in the process
of learning.
Iron targets don't really worry me not on the v3i anyway because I can speed her up when processing the
target or slow it right down. This is the key with the next generation of detectors which includes the 3030,
v3i and for example the G2. Processing speed is important because if its too slow you need to swing it slow.
The shilling was a surprise. I put the machine in silver mode as a test and it was the 2nd target I dug. My first
silver though I have dug heaps of pennies and half pennies.
It's good to learn the numbers of things you target and the common things you don't like. I use to try and guess the target before I dug it up, no matter what the numbers were. You soon get good at being able to pick and choose what to dig.
Shelton
Mike Majchrowicz
The number can change with the ground. Just listen and look for depth. Trashes are on upper level of ground - check on deep indicator.
well guys after long debate and research I finally decided to grab a ctx 3030 and I gotta say im quite impressed .its extremely good at sorting out trash from coins .I really like the colour screen to its gonna take some learning tho .
ive found 2 $2 coins 2 10c coins a 1c and a 5c .ive noticed with the id patterns all the coins seem to fall under the 12:20 to 12 : 47 range so things are slowly clicking lol .
only gripe I have so far is there is so many cracks and crevises in this machine and dirt gets in very easily but hopefully the military grade hand made case ive ordered from England will fix this .
anyway just wanna say big thx to you guys for putting up with my bombardment of questions and for helping me come to a conclusion .I don't know what it is about the ctx but I really love this machine it just pulls coins out of the ground and ive only used it for a total of 1 hr if that . oh also I really love how this machine has such clear sounds for junk or coins .anyway now all I have to do is memorize the sounds and the numbers on the screen lol .
thx again guys .
.ive found 2 $2 coins 2 10c coins a 1c and a 5c .ive noticed with the id patterns all the coins seem to fall under the 12:20 to 12 : 47 range so things are slowly clicking lol .
only gripe I have so far is there is so many cracks and crevises in this machine and dirt gets in very easily but hopefully the military grade hand made case ive ordered from England will fix this .
anyway just wanna say big thx to you guys for putting up with my bombardment of questions and for helping me come to a conclusion .I don't know what it is about the ctx but I really love this machine it just pulls coins out of the ground and ive only used it for a total of 1 hr if that . oh also I really love how this machine has such clear sounds for junk or coins .anyway now all I have to do is memorize the sounds and the numbers on the screen lol .
thx again guys .
G
Guest
Good to hear mate.
Keep us informed how you go with it.
Nothing much better than having a new toy to play with!!!!
Cheers
Keep us informed how you go with it.
Nothing much better than having a new toy to play with!!!!
Cheers
G
Guest
Good luck with it.
Just take your time learning the machine and be
Patient with it.
Would be an idea to place a large rusty nail on clean
ground and place a coin 1 or 2" away and place another
Nail followed by another coin and swing over all targets.
Swing the machine where you can hear the coins then use
This swing speed when you go detecting which gives the
Machine time to analyse the good target near the junk target.
Just don't forget to cover your holes and if your in a park
Cut neat plugs and put back.
The advantage you have is if machine gets dirty you can
Wash it.
Looking forward to your finds.
Just take your time learning the machine and be
Patient with it.
Would be an idea to place a large rusty nail on clean
ground and place a coin 1 or 2" away and place another
Nail followed by another coin and swing over all targets.
Swing the machine where you can hear the coins then use
This swing speed when you go detecting which gives the
Machine time to analyse the good target near the junk target.
Just don't forget to cover your holes and if your in a park
Cut neat plugs and put back.
The advantage you have is if machine gets dirty you can
Wash it.
Looking forward to your finds.
Goldtarget
(AKA OldGT)
Making a quick test bed if you can will help, make up a range of targets at different depths so you can test how the machine responds in a controlled environment, changing settings and seeing how the machine changes it responseit will help you when discovering unidentified targets while hunting, obv if your hitting the beach this is alot less practical, but it will help speed up the learning curve. Good luck with your new machine and I hope you find many hours of enjoyment from it.
