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Outdoor & Recreation
Campers, Vans & 4WD's
Solar Panels - Information and Questions
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<blockquote data-quote="condor22" data-source="post: 397060" data-attributes="member: 1932"><p>Simmo,</p><p></p><p>Any charger wether DC-DC, 240VAC or solar controller, should be as close to the battery as possible to minimise voltage/current loss, using the correct gauge cable to handle the volts/amps.</p><p></p><p>Similarly, if you connect an inverter, it should also be as close to the battery as possible.</p><p></p><p>On my previous vehicle, I did voltage test (under load of a 3 way fridge) at the vehicle battery, the Anderson connector on the rear bumper, the connection to the distribution point in the van battery compartment and at the fridge terminals.</p><p></p><p>With engine running, I started at 13.8V at the car and ended with just under 12V at the fridge. (the drop under no load was much less, but is meaningless because it's what is operating that counts)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="condor22, post: 397060, member: 1932"] Simmo, Any charger wether DC-DC, 240VAC or solar controller, should be as close to the battery as possible to minimise voltage/current loss, using the correct gauge cable to handle the volts/amps. Similarly, if you connect an inverter, it should also be as close to the battery as possible. On my previous vehicle, I did voltage test (under load of a 3 way fridge) at the vehicle battery, the Anderson connector on the rear bumper, the connection to the distribution point in the van battery compartment and at the fridge terminals. With engine running, I started at 13.8V at the car and ended with just under 12V at the fridge. (the drop under no load was much less, but is meaningless because it's what is operating that counts) [/QUOTE]
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Outdoor & Recreation
Campers, Vans & 4WD's
Solar Panels - Information and Questions
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