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#26

Tathradj
Moderator
From: Now in Bega, NSW
Joined: 17 February 2014
Posts: 10,276
Moderator
06 June 2021 04:23 pm

Putting it up for sale shortly after I clean it out/Up and register it.


A couple of HiBankers inc. accessories, , QED, 4500, SDC2300, Gt1600,
Aldi, A Prado 4x4, A'Van Cruiseliner and a heck of a lot of determination.
Most importantly, A lot of Good Honest Friends. Maybe one day Lucky.

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#27

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,220
Member
06 June 2021 07:09 pm

What gets me riled is, I've weighed both my van wheels individually. The 3 way fridge is on the driver side of the van. The dinette with battery & charger etc is on the other side.

The fridge side is 50kg heavier and there is no space to add more weight under the dinette. Then I put food in the fridge and in the pantry (also on the driver side) and I can easily see near 100kg more on the driver side.

However, I got fed up, turning the fridge on 240 V a couple of days before travelling, then to 12 V to travel, then to LPG when on my mates bush block.
Coupled with constantly checking the bloody temperature.

My last 2 trips, I've used the Engel for fridge food n drink and the Brass Monkey set to -12 for the frozos and they travel in the back of the 4x4. The 3 way gets switched on LPG when I get to camp and the food transferred when it's cold. I might add, the 3 way gets colder quicker on LPG than it does on 240 VAC. For me, that's much less stuffing round as I use the vehicle fridge/freezer when I do the shop for the trip and it saves moving the food from them until I get where I'm going. smile

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#28

Nightjar
Member
From: Home-Waikiki, Prospect-Leonora
Joined: 26 September 2013
Posts: 2,179
Member
06 June 2021 08:38 pm

Condor22,
Like you we have a 3way in our van and after initial problems we now have it sorted.
Like yours the fridge is on drivers side and batteries on passenger.
Our van is tandem axle and use load levelers.
We have 80l water tanks forward and aft of the axles.
We travel with the forward tank empty and approx 30litres in the aft tank to distribute weights.
We usually travel 1000k on the bitumen @ 100KMP, the last town usually Leonora we fill both water tanks in van and the two inbuilt 60l tanks under ute and an 80 litre on the back of the ute before travelling the last 70kms to destination.

After purchasing the van back in 2008 (5.5M Trailstar-Aquila fitted with shock absorber on each wheel) I made up a device for checking drawbar weight when loaded. (All good)
Ran heavy wiring + fuse from auxiliary battery to rear of ute + Anderson Plug then Anderson plug and wiring + fuse to the van batteries. (The original wiring did not keep up the charge to the van batteries during the heavy drainage from the fridge running on 12V while travelling.) All good.
Touch wood we have covered approx 50,000kms with out any drama other than tyre blow out on the van. (Fortunately was only travelling at low speed so the "wobbles" didn't cause too much drama.
Have an 80L + 39L Engels + 3kva Honda generator the back of ute which allows us about one month food storage while camping remote/off the grid.


The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.
Happy Hunting, Nightjar.

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#29

Ridge Runner
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Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,970
Member
07 June 2021 12:49 am

Theres a couple of brands of Caravans over here that are made of fibre glass so "no" water leaks and they weigh from 580 to 850kgs but they have a load capacity of up to 4/500kgs depending on the model and layout, I would love to buy one because that would give me a load capacity of up to 1400kg's and they make a few Quirky models as well, being so light you can tow them with just about any car out there,

1622987235_eriba_310.jpg

1622987323_2019_eriba_troll_540_gt_rear.jpg

1622987576_2019_eriba_troll_540_gt_right_front.jpg

Last edited by Ridge Runner (07 June 2021 01:03 am)


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM

#30

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,220
Member
07 June 2021 12:59 am

Jeez RR, I'm 6' tall would I fit. I used to collect Dinky toys in the UK as a kid, it looks like one lol.

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#31

Ridge Runner
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Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,970
Member
07 June 2021 01:24 am

condor22 wrote:

Jeez RR, I'm 6' tall would I fit. I used to collect Dinky toys in the UK as a kid, it looks like one lol.

With the roof up they are about 6'6" and about 5'6" with it down, Those are the 3.10 and the 5.40 models they also make a 8.20 version that looks more spaceage, They are German made by the Hymar Group, Not cheap but they hold their secondhand price like nothing on the planet, A 20 year old one can still fetch 10 to $15k and they are light and about a 1/5th of the Cost of one of those American Aluminium Airsteams,

There is another company making fibreglass normal type caravans that wight 580kg's and can gross about 850/900kgs +/-. which would be a perfect addition to go with my Van

Last edited by Ridge Runner (07 June 2021 01:36 am)


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM

#32

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,970
Member
08 June 2021 01:02 pm

I have run the AGM test Vs Size of charger again only this time I used the 15A Noco Smart Charger and I ran the Battery even lower But I don't know if it was because of cycling the AGM again but it charged faster using the 15A charger compared to the 26A charger,

I used 37.9% or 30Ah from the 80Ah AGM and using the Noco G15000 it took 7 hrs 8 minutes to completely finish charging, Cutting the charge time in half, where as before I drain the AGM by 19% which is only half of what I did this time,

15A charge rate is 18.75% of the AGM's capacity and 26A is 32.5% of the AGM's capacity when compared to the charge times shows that a charge rate of 20% works a lot better/faster than a 30%+ charge rate. So I am guessing that 20% +/- is the best charge rate for AGM's, So for a 130Ah AGM 26A would be best. perfect


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM

#33

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,220
Member
09 June 2021 06:26 pm

One thing I found with quite a few people I chat to is their mistaken belief that, for example, (for AGM batteries)

1. A 30 A charger will charge 30 amps in one hour = rarely the case.
2. If, i.e a 120 AH battery is at 50% State of Charge (SOC) the same charger will take 2 hours to charge = It won't.

I'll use my chargers as examples - a. Voltech BC-1230 P 240 VAC mains smart charger and b. Redarc BCDC1220 DC-DC charger. The Voltech is set to 21 amps (it has increments of 10 to 100% charge rate) so set to 70%. I've monitored it's charge rate in Bulk mode on a number of occasions and never seen it exceed 18.2 amps and generally near 15 amps. This is because as a smart charger, like the Redarc, it is "very smart"/ It looks at the battery's condition, size, temperature etc etc. and adjusts accordingly to the best charge rate it determines for the battery.

However, this only occurs until the battery is approx. 80% SOC, then the charger goes into Absorption Mode. Here, the charger increases voltage to approx 14.4/14.5 V and the charge amps gradually reduce until the battery is nearly 100% full. This stage can take several hours to achieve and again can vary from battery to battery, charger to charger, install to install and temperature. So there is no definitive time anyone can quote.

What I do know is my 130 AH battery at 75% SOC (about 33 AH used) with the Voltech charger set to 21 amps charge rate takes about 2.5 to 3.0 hours to reach float mode.
That can vary as it also depends on if there is any load on the battery during charging.

Conversely, the Victron 15 A solar controller, on a moderate day in winter, reaches float mode around mid afternoon with the same use. Again impossible to quantify as solar is very weather dependent, I recently had 2 days of absolutely atrocious weather and needed to run the Voltech (genny powered to top up).

What Lithium allows is, in my opinion, 3 distinct advantages - 1. Much more rapid charging, whatever the source (VAC, DC-DC or Solar), 2. Extended time frame between charging as you can cycle deeper. and, 3. A more constant voltage through that cycling avoiding low voltage cutout on fridges and even some TVs.

#34

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,220
Member
09 June 2021 06:28 pm

Forgot to mention, never seen my 20 amp Redarc throw more than 14.8 amps at my 100 AH auxiliary in Bulk mode.

#35

Ridge Runner
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Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,970
Member
09 June 2021 06:37 pm

condor22 wrote:

Forgot to mention, never seen my 20 amp Redarc throw more than 14.8 amps at my 100 AH auxiliary in Bulk mode.

Funny you should say that because I have a few chargers but I have noticed that I have never seen one of them put out their rated currant even on big batteries linked up , And ofcoarse when charging Lead Acid batteries the needle drops pretty quick after they are first turned on and then they stablize stuck in one place for a while. the big one is a 35A but the most I have ever seen is about 26.5A and that was only for a few seconds.

Last edited by Ridge Runner (09 June 2021 06:40 pm)


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM

#36

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,220
Member
10 June 2021 01:46 am

A good quality charger, in simple terms, interrogates the battery's SOC and in some its health. i.e. if I only use say 10 AH from my 100 AH AGM, when a charger is switched on the Voltech, or I start the car for the Redarc or even the Victron solar controller, they all start in Bulk mode.

Depending on the charger and the SOC of the battery, they all go through up to all 3 stages and at different rates. Usually ranging from some 10s of seconds to a few minutes, until they determine what the battery needs and therefore its stage of charge.

One of the biggest killers of a battery, are chargers that stay in Absorption mode when a load is applied. I won't name it, but one of my old chargers did that. So it was constantly gassing off at 14.5 V until the load reduced. That was around a 3 amp load < than floated, > than went into absorption.

I took note of the Voltech's voltage on my last trip, when I was at my mates place. He was away, so I tapped into his residential 240 VAC (solar powered) and turned my panels off. I have a remote head unit on the charger as well as a monitor on the battery. In the evening when watching TV on Satellite, running my laptop, the diesel heater and a light or 2, I showed a charger output of between 5 and 6.5 amps, but a net zero battery discharge/charge rate and both displays floating at around 13.2 volts.

This means the charger provided the power to the load through the battery, but as the battery was effectively under no load, it maintained Float mode over the several hours until I went to bed. After which the only load was the 0.8 to 1.0 amp heater load throughout the night. On the odd occasion I got up to "take the dog for a walk" the voltage was still 13.2 V. It was not in power supply mode, but AGM mode. Power supply mode gives a constant 13.8 V.

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#37

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,220
Member
10 June 2021 02:03 am

The Voltech has 2 LiFePo4 settings, one has an Absorption of 14.6 V the other at 14.4 V. Both float at 13.6. However, as and when I go Lithium, I'm going to use power supply mode at 13.8 V at the full 30 A setting, as it is a better voltage to charge and float for the battery I'll buy.

The battery's inbuilt BMS will regulate the current and the charger will only give what the battery wants.

FYI - I checked the specs of the Voltech, the current draw at its full 30 A charge capacity is 2.5 amps (600 W). So when run from a 2kVA genny at the same time as a microwave it's over the genny's constant power rating. So I switch it off on the remote head when in that scenario, keeping in mind it's set to 70% output and not necessarily in Bulk mode anyway.

I used my clamp ammeter on a test cable when on my mates system and when it was floating and providing 3 amps @ 12 V to the TV, the 240 VAC load hovered between 0.2 and 0.3 amps @ 240 VAC with the battery floating.

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#38

Ridge Runner
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Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,970
Member
10 June 2021 10:32 am

I also ran one of the fridges while I was charging 2X 115Ah batteries it was running off, when the fridge kicked in where the Amp Meter was reading 5 or 6 Amps it then when up to 8 or 9A so it was compensating for the fridge draw while still give the batteries the 5 to 6A they wanted,

It seems that these charger companies quote their chargers peak power not the constant power, because both yours and mine seem to be putting out a constant 25% less than the claimed rating. so based on that a person should buy a charger that is 25% bigger than what they need.

That works out fine for lead Acid but I am sure how that pans out for your smart chargers even though you are still lossing that 25%, The 80A AGM I charged with the 26A smart charge was not too impressive, I don't know if it was because the battery had been sitting for a week or so because it finished the Bulk charge in 3h 20m but it kept on clicking 14+ hours later yet whn I used more power from the AGM @ 39+Ah using the 15A smart charger it did its Bulk charge in roughlt the same time of 3h 20m+/- and then it stopped clicking after 7h 8m which is half the time of the bigger charger,


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM


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