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#476

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
23 March 2021 09:07 pm

Ded Driver wrote:

3 weeks ago i accidentally let my 100Ah Lead Crystal (Aux) battery run down to 11.8V ... 1st time.
Whilst dealing with a multitude of family problems I had been preoccupied & left the Alternator charge circuit breaker 'off'' & had unplugged the solar panel.
I noticed via the remote fridge monitor that the temp was starting to rise.
The in-vehicle DC-DC charger didnt seem to want to start charging again, so at first I thought it was the problem.
I put my 240V 7 Stage charger across it for 12hrs & it came up fine. Tests indicate it is fully functional.
Been running in the car again with no issues.

The Flat test I saw on them was incredible how they jump back in to life and accept the full power from the charging source, In that they even smoke Lithium batteries when it comes to charging speed, They almost charge like you fuel up ya car meaning as fast as you can pour it they will accept it,

I'm still looking for one of them, I keep checking the place that sells them but they are always listed out of stock,, although they still advertise them.

I thought AGM was fast at accepting a charge so I used about 35% of my 80Ah AGM which is about 28.9Ah and so far it is still going after 4 and a half hours using a 26Ah Smart Charger,

My Portable Lithium packs Charge at around 17.5% of the Batteries Capacity, but if you use 40% of it's power then that 17.5% means it will put back that 40% in about 2 hours 16 minutes, So if the fridge chews 18/19% during the past 24 hours it will top it up in just on an hour.

Lithium is great for those on the move or if you are using a smallish battery bank and the down side is the Cost, but Lead Crystal is the fastest of the lot although they have the weight of a lead acid they cost about the same as 2 AGM's but although they are heavy you can do away with running 2 batteries because you can use all the power.


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM

1 user likes this post: Ded Driver

#477

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,171
Member
23 March 2021 09:29 pm

My mate phoned me an hour ago, just finished lol. Amongst other topics, I asked him re the online Pylontech specs and his. He said that the spec sheet he has is the latest info from the manufacturer, updated partially due to his involvement in testing it. So.....

4,000 cycles @ 100% cycle is current, weight is approx 13 kg, operating temp range is as stated -20 to +60, however as noted above the charging temp range is more modest 0-45.

Also re the 70 AH - 850 CCA - He is currently testing it in his older 1 tonner 5 lt V8. He commented that these are ok in "classic" cars that had simple alternators at 13.8 V and bugger all electronics. Not no good for a modern computer on wheels. smile

The primary reason for the 4 battery in a bank limit is due to the internal BMS.

The direct comparison to an AGM - A number of sources state varying data. This can be also attributed to quality, how charged load when used etc. So as a guide - 2,000 to 2,500 cycles at 25% Depth of Cycle (DOC) and 1,300 to 1,600 at 50% DOC. Assume your daily load needs is 100 AH, then a Pylontech will give 4,000 cycles according to the specs.

Scenario - 25% DOC will require a 400 AH AGM bank to produce 100 AH/day and maybe 2,500 times. At 50% DOC = 200 AH AGM bank, but for around 1,500 cycles.

A reasonable quality AGM will cost around $350 x 4 =$1,400 and about 120kg and need replacing at around 60% of the lithium cycle life = an average of over $2,100+.
For 2 AGMs = $700 at 60kg they will need close to 2 lots of replacement = $2,100.

Both options are double the price of the Lithium and 4 to 9 times the weight. However, the need for proper charging still needs to be factored in.

I still maintain that, if like me you have a "working well" AGM system, Lithium is still an expense too far for me and many others. smile If I were to buy a new van that needs a from scratch setup, different story.

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#478

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
23 March 2021 10:05 pm

condor22 wrote:

My mate phoned me an hour ago, just finished lol. Amongst other topics, I asked him re the online Pylontech specs and his. He said that the spec sheet he has is the latest info from the manufacturer, updated partially due to his involvement in testing it. So.....

4,000 cycles @ 100% cycle is current, weight is approx 13 kg, operating temp range is as stated -20 to +60, however as noted above the charging temp range is more modest 0-45.

Also re the 70 AH - 850 CCA - He is currently testing it in his older 1 tonner 5 lt V8. He commented that these are ok in "classic" cars that had simple alternators at 13.8 V and bugger all electronics. Not no good for a modern computer on wheels. smile

The primary reason for the 4 battery in a bank limit is due to the internal BMS.

The direct comparison to an AGM - A number of sources state varying data. This can be also attributed to quality, how charged load when used etc. So as a guide - 2,000 to 2,500 cycles at 25% Depth of Cycle (DOC) and 1,300 to 1,600 at 50% DOC. Assume your daily load needs is 100 AH, then a Pylontech will give 4,000 cycles according to the specs.

Scenario - 25% DOC will require a 400 AH AGM bank to produce 100 AH/day and maybe 2,500 times. At 50% DOC = 200 AH AGM bank, but for around 1,500 cycles.

A reasonable quality AGM will cost around $350 x 4 =$1,400 and about 120kg and need replacing at around 60% of the lithium cycle life = an average of over $2,100+.
For 2 AGMs = $700 at 60kg they will need close to 2 lots of replacement = $2,100.

Both options are double the price of the Lithium and 4 to 9 times the weight. However, the need for proper charging still needs to be factored in.

I still maintain that, if like me you have a "working well" AGM system, Lithium is still an expense too far for me and many others. smile If I were to buy a new van that needs a from scratch setup, different story.

If it works why change it, Straight out Lithium Car Type batteries need to come down by about 30%+ before I will ever buy one, In the mean time I will keep running these PLB's, There's not brain ache involved as they have a built in MPPT and although they are only 40Ah they have more than enough power to run the fridge when the sun goes down when the fridge is set to -14*c and still manage to charge within a couple of hours and in fridge mode it would take less than an hour to charge it,

Some of these So called Solar Chargers have up to 1500Wh to 2400 and 3000Wh the trouble with ones that size you need 7 to 800w of Solar to Charge them in 3 or 4 hours. So the 500+Wh models are better for everyday use.


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#479

where the nugget
Member
Joined: 23 December 2020
Posts: 23
Member
24 March 2021 11:22 pm

just read some of the comments in here re Lithium batteries and temps etc and cold charging and overheat charging and relying on the BMS and the temp sensors alone Wonders how many are running VICTRON SMART BATTERY SENSE to protect them from that happening with their mppts As sensors fail overtime or do not work depending on the battery builder see you tube for countless examples of cheaper lithium batteries where the temp protection has failed or was never there to start with .

Last edited by where the nugget (24 March 2021 11:32 pm)

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#480

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
25 March 2021 12:08 am

where the nugget wrote:

just read some of the comments in here re Lithium batteries and temps etc and cold charging and overheat charging and relying on the BMS and the temp sensors alone Wonders how many are running VICTRON SMART BATTERY SENSE to protect them from that happening with their mppts As sensors fail overtime or do not work depending on the battery builder see you tube for countless examples of cheaper lithium batteries where the temp protection has failed or was never there to start with .

Yeah I saw one or 2 like that last week, Those batteries I saw look like the real deal and afterwards It shot down my ideas of buying a cheaper Lithium battery altogether, Not only that but some of them were not LiFePo4 and they are the best ones to have, Unless a Lithium battery is LifePo4 you don't want it and there are many different types out there so it is easy to get stung by less than honest dealers. sad mad mad mad


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#481

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,171
Member
25 March 2021 12:36 am

Here's an excerpt from Battery University;

Prismatic cell are encased in aluminum or steel for stability. Jelly-rolled or stacked, the cell is space-efficient but can be costlier to manufacture than the cylindrical cell. Modern prismatic cells are used in the electric powertrain and energy storage systems.

My 2 tips for LiFePO4 - 1. Make sure it is Prismatic construction. 2. Suffer the extra 2 kg of weight and get one in a steel case. (It can't catch fire in the event of. smile

The biggest problem, most people have with LiFePO4 batteries re there cycle life is that like other things, they haven't been around long enough, with the correct charging to get the real life data.

Many specifications of devices are from rugged, fast testing, done in a lab in a few months or less, to simulate years of use. We need them for more than a few months and use them in the real world, not a lab and not in controlled conditions.

Bit like the old fridge debate, we all have our own bias as to what brand. I bought an Engel 28 years ago, still going strong, "used in the real world". No it's not digital, doesn't have a light inside or an inbuilt temp gauge. A wireless gauge and a torch/headlight fix that. When other brands have been around and lasted that long my bias "might" change, lol. It'll probably outlast me. beer beer beer

#482

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
25 March 2021 01:22 am

condor22 wrote:

Here's an excerpt from Battery University;

Prismatic cell are encased in aluminum or steel for stability. Jelly-rolled or stacked, the cell is space-efficient but can be costlier to manufacture than the cylindrical cell. Modern prismatic cells are used in the electric powertrain and energy storage systems.

My 2 tips for LiFePO4 - 1. Make sure it is Prismatic construction. 2. Suffer the extra 2 kg of weight and get one in a steel case. (It can't catch fire in the event of. smile

The biggest problem, most people have with LiFePO4 batteries re there cycle life is that like other things, they haven't been around long enough, with the correct charging to get the real life data.

Many specifications of devices are from rugged, fast testing, done in a lab in a few months or less, to simulate years of use. We need them for more than a few months and use them in the real world, not a lab and not in controlled conditions.

Bit like the old fridge debate, we all have our own bias as to what brand. I bought an Engel 28 years ago, still going strong, "used in the real world". No it's not digital, doesn't have a light inside or an inbuilt temp gauge. A wireless gauge and a torch/headlight fix that. When other brands have been around and lasted that long my bias "might" change, lol. It'll probably outlast me. beer beer beer

What you say about the old Engel also applies to batteries, In an off grid situation where Solar panels are set up to collect the most amount of sun then There is no reason not to use Lead Acid or AGM both will work for 5 to 10 years sometimes longer If looked after which sort of matches the Age often quoted for Lithium base products. As pointed out before most fridges like lithium batteries have not been on the market long enough although I know of some brands that are still going strong after 17+ years and given the chance there is no reason you BM shouldn't last for 28 years either,

My Lead Acid Deep Cycle Batteries have been chugging away for over 3 years 8 months and still read over 13.25v a week later after being taken off the charger. My only gripe with them is how slow they charge, Sure I can hit them with a 35A Charger that normally hits them with about 18-20A to start with when charged in pairs and they can reach max voltage in about 3 to 4 hours but we all know the problems in doing that.

The reason I went with the Dometic LiFePo4 packs is because being a respected brand I could trust them to put in there what they said was in there, At first I thought they were too small but at 80% I get to use 64Ah out of them which is nice but when you consider that they charge more than 4 X quicker than lead acid or AGM means I would need in excess of 512Ah to achieve the same useable power If I was to use lead acid batteries if I was to use the lead acid batteries to 50% SOC, The Draw back of larger lithium packs is the amount of solar they need to power them and the won't charge to 100% from a standard 12v out let where the smaller packs will.


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#483

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,171
Member
25 March 2021 12:02 pm

Ridge Runner wrote:

The Draw back of larger lithium packs is the amount of solar they need to power them and the won't charge to 100% from a standard 12v out let where the smaller packs will.

Not sure I agree, I use around 35 AH a day in my van and the 200 W of solar usually charge my AGM by mid afternoon in a VIC winter. Keep in mind that an AGM smart charge from a Victron, slows the current down as the battery nears 85% charge (Absorption).

If I used 35 AH from a Lithium, the panels will still output the same, but achieve the charge quicker as there is no Absorption mode. In which case they'll reach near 100% earlier. smile

#484

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
25 March 2021 12:20 pm

condor22 wrote:
Ridge Runner wrote:

The Draw back of larger lithium packs is the amount of solar they need to power them and the won't charge to 100% from a standard 12v out let where the smaller packs will.

Not sure I agree, I use around 35 AH a day in my van and the 200 W of solar usually charge my AGM by mid afternoon in a VIC winter. Keep in mind that an AGM smart charge from a Victron, slows the current down as the battery nears 85% charge (Absorption).

If I used 35 AH from a Lithium, the panels will still output the same, but achieve the charge quicker as there is no Absorption mode. In which case they'll reach near 100% earlier. smile

well with these 40Ah/512w packs I have found that they will charge quickly even while they are running the ARB 47 and the only they are not charging is at night and as soon as the Sun comes up or the vehicle is started they are topped up within an hour or so, At night the 47 is only going to use between 10 and 30% depending if I am using it as a fridge or a freezer, 10% is around 4Ah and 30% is about 12Ah So the 40Ah pack is only going have to power it for 8 to 10 hours maybe 12 ???

A single 40Ah won't run the 78L for 24 hours in freezer mode, In fridge mode it's fine because it only uses between 0.5 to 1.07Ah.

The little CDF18 will run for over 4 days on it in fridge mode.


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#485

condor22
Member
From: Adelaide, SA
Joined: 16 December 2013
Posts: 2,171
Member
25 March 2021 02:56 pm

Standby for my next trip, running the Engel (fridge) and the Brass Monkey (Freezer). Gonna be an interesting couple of days. Will set both up 2 days before departure and 2 on arrival. Be ok driving with the DC-DC, but will check morning usage.

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#486

where the nugget
Member
Joined: 23 December 2020
Posts: 23
Member
25 March 2021 03:31 pm

Ridge Runner wrote:
condor22 wrote:

Here's an excerpt from Battery University;

Prismatic cell are encased in aluminum or steel for stability. Jelly-rolled or stacked, the cell is space-efficient but can be costlier to manufacture than the cylindrical cell. Modern prismatic cells are used in the electric powertrain and energy storage systems.

My 2 tips for LiFePO4 - 1. Make sure it is Prismatic construction. 2. Suffer the extra 2 kg of weight and get one in a steel case. (It can't catch fire in the event of. smile

The biggest problem, most people have with LiFePO4 batteries re there cycle life is that like other things, they haven't been around long enough, with the correct charging to get the real life data.

Many specifications of devices are from rugged, fast testing, done in a lab in a few months or less, to simulate years of use. We need them for more than a few months and use them in the real world, not a lab and not in controlled conditions.

Bit like the old fridge debate, we all have our own bias as to what brand. I bought an Engel 28 years ago, still going strong, "used in the real world". No it's not digital, doesn't have a light inside or an inbuilt temp gauge. A wireless gauge and a torch/headlight fix that. When other brands have been around and lasted that long my bias "might" change, lol. It'll probably outlast me. beer beer beer

What you say about the old Engel also applies to batteries, In an off grid situation where Solar panels are set up to collect the most amount of sun then There is no reason not to use Lead Acid or AGM both will work for 5 to 10 years sometimes longer If looked after which sort of matches the Age often quoted for Lithium base products. As pointed out before most fridges like lithium batteries have not been on the market long enough although I know of some brands that are still going strong after 17+ years and given the chance there is no reason you BM shouldn't last for 28 years either,

My Lead Acid Deep Cycle Batteries have been chugging away for over 3 years 8 months and still read over 13.25v a week later after being taken off the charger. My only gripe with them is how slow they charge, Sure I can hit them with a 35A Charger that normally hits them with about 18-20A to start with when charged in pairs and they can reach max voltage in about 3 to 4 hours but we all know the problems in doing that.

The reason I went with the Dometic LiFePo4 packs is because being a respected brand I could trust them to put in there what they said was in there, At first I thought they were too small but at 80% I get to use 64Ah out of them which is nice but when you consider that they charge more than 4 X quicker than lead acid or AGM means I would need in excess of 512Ah to achieve the same useable power If I was to use lead acid batteries if I was to use the lead acid batteries to 50% SOC, The Draw back of larger lithium packs is the amount of solar they need to power them and the won't charge to 100% from a standard 12v out let where the smaller packs will.

The part that highlighted a common comment a simple fix to a common problem and that a current and temp sensor fixes hence why most good solar controller mobs sell the sensor as the one build into BMS do not help a MPPT or PWN in anyway to charge a lithium battery to full. where with a sensor added that feeds information back to the solar controller it getting true readings etc and adjusts to fully charge the lithium battery.

Last edited by where the nugget (25 March 2021 03:33 pm)

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#487

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
26 March 2021 02:41 am

condor22 wrote:

Standby for my next trip, running the Engel (fridge) and the Brass Monkey (Freezer). Gonna be an interesting couple of days. Will set both up 2 days before departure and 2 on arrival. Be ok driving with the DC-DC, but will check morning usage.

Yes I think that is the best combo,

When it comes to using the power I tried it using the 78 as a freezer and the 18 as a fridge which is fine for month long or more trips if you are going to be charging via a DC to DC plus Solar but for normal trip where you park up having the right charging setup is crucial,

Best set up for shorter trips is the 47 as a fridge and the 18 as a freezer,

The bigger 78 uses little power as a fridge as little as 0.45Ah but in freezer mode set at -16 on average it will use around 1.35Ah which is 32.8Ah per 24 hours where as the 47 will use 25.283Ah per 24 hours when set to -14*c which is about a 7.5Ah Saving every day.

I love the room of the 78 and how well it cools having the bigger BD-50 Compressor but when set to below -12 you start to see a bigger power draw, As a fridge there is very little difference in the power draw compared to a 40L fridge.


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#488

Ded Driver
Member
From: West of the Border, WA
Joined: 27 May 2018
Posts: 3,084
Member
26 March 2021 09:46 am

Going back to my earlier post about flattening my LC battery, my DC-DC charger is a 45A unit, so with the alternator switched in, it recharges it in just over 2hrs.
.
100Ahr battery .. 45A x 2hrs = 90Ahrs

Last edited by Ded Driver (26 March 2021 09:47 am)


APLA member, GPX4000, modded SD2100, XTerra705, GM1000, Whites MXT Pro, Nokta Pointer, sP01 Enhancer, Garmin GPSMAP 64S, kti PLB, a map, all sorts of coils & a cupla buckets full of hope & enthusiasm

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#489

Nightjar
Member
From: Home-Waikiki, Prospect-Leonora
Joined: 26 September 2013
Posts: 2,114
Member
26 March 2021 11:09 am

Final preparations almost complete for a month+ trip beginning on or around 17/04 and home at end of May.
Oil change, all filters renewed and front wheel bearings adjusted on ute.
Tested both Engels 80L dual & 39L on 240V & 12V. Generator purring. (Generator is rarely run, only if cloud cover has reduced solar input or we haven't driven any distance to get top up from ute alternator. (No DC DC charger.)
Caravan wheel bearings checked and adjusted and suspension greased.
Fridge tested Ok.
The 39L running as a freezer holds enough frozen meat & vegie for half the trip, freezer compartments in other two fridges holds the remainder. (No need to for trips to restock)
Now to sit down and make a list of food to keep us going at our camp 1000k's from home.
A month+ in remote WA goldfields, hopefully finding gold-nugget or three away from all the doom and gloom in the rat race. big_smile
Another trip like this one would make up for the lost 2020.

1616717315_imgp1151.jpg

Last edited by Nightjar (26 March 2021 11:15 am)


The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.
Happy Hunting, Nightjar.

5 users like this post: Jaros, Ridge Runner, Solid Luck, Ded Driver, Prooz

#490

Jaros
Moderator
From: S.E.Qld., QLD
Joined: 11 August 2013
Posts: 14,179
Moderator
26 March 2021 11:25 am

Yes good work with bearings. They are very important and a lot of people forget them. I had the camper bearings done and it cost me $100 plus parts. An army mechanic came out via Airtasker and removed the bearings which i took to Supercheap to get the identical bearings and next day he came out and installed them using army grease as well as sandblasting everything that needed it. Very pleased.
I thought it was a good thing to do as the camper had been around Oz in 2007 and out to Thanes Ck a dozen or so times.
Good luck with your trip Peter and may it be fruitful. smile


F1A4M2, Exterra 705 Gold, Ace 250, Goldrat 8" Dreammat River Sluice.

1 user likes this post: Nightjar

#491

Nightjar
Member
From: Home-Waikiki, Prospect-Leonora
Joined: 26 September 2013
Posts: 2,114
Member
26 March 2021 12:07 pm

Thanks Jaros, hopefully a few success photos later in the year. wink
Doing the oil & filter change + the wheel bearing grease and adjustment myself has payed for our months groceries, a win win.


The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.
Happy Hunting, Nightjar.

1 user likes this post: Ridge Runner

#492

Jaros
Moderator
From: S.E.Qld., QLD
Joined: 11 August 2013
Posts: 14,179
Moderator
26 March 2021 12:19 pm

I do the oil and filter twice a year-a habit I have had all my life with my cars. Anything more serious goes to a mechanic who has serviced my Pathy since new. smile


F1A4M2, Exterra 705 Gold, Ace 250, Goldrat 8" Dreammat River Sluice.

#493

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
26 March 2021 12:45 pm

Nightjar wrote:

Final preparations almost complete for a month+ trip beginning on or around 17/04 and home at end of May.
Oil change, all filters renewed and front wheel bearings adjusted on ute.
Tested both Engels 80L dual & 39L on 240V & 12V. Generator purring. (Generator is rarely run, only if cloud cover has reduced solar input or we haven't driven any distance to get top up from ute alternator. (No DC DC charger.)
Caravan wheel bearings checked and adjusted and suspension greased.
Fridge tested Ok.
The 39L running as a freezer holds enough frozen meat & vegie for half the trip, freezer compartments in other two fridges holds the remainder. (No need to for trips to restock)
Now to sit down and make a list of food to keep us going at our camp 1000k's from home.
A month+ in remote WA goldfields, hopefully finding gold-nugget or three away from all the doom and gloom in the rat race. big_smile
Another trip like this one would make up for the lost 2020.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com.au … gp1151.jpg

Live the Dream NJ, Hope you hit the big one, sounds like a heck of an adventure, thumbsup


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM

#494

Nightjar
Member
From: Home-Waikiki, Prospect-Leonora
Joined: 26 September 2013
Posts: 2,114
Member
26 March 2021 03:52 pm

Ridge Runner wrote:

Live the Dream NJ, Hope you hit the big one, sounds like a heck of an adventure, thumbsup

RR, Been doing it every year since the 80's sometimes up to 6 weeks at a time. 2020 we missed out getting away.
Yes, still hoping for the big one. ?


The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.
Happy Hunting, Nightjar.

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#495

oldtimerROB
Member
Joined: 01 December 2016
Posts: 303
Member
26 March 2021 05:09 pm

Ridge Runner wrote:

Rob if you have the Battery power those Greenhouse/Glasshouse heaters are good for small areas, I am fitting one in mine, If you have Solar power should not be an issue, you can buy them from 300mm to 2.4m in length and are the safest option,

Those Cheap Diesel Heaters are Brilliant and are very cheap to run, and SAFE, I have seen them keep a van warm when it's -40*c outside and about 25* in the Van.

I have also just bought some 12v electric blankets, which makes a good backup plan.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07 … HXHA&psc=1

Hope that helps.

Ridge Runner, thanks for the info. I have not seen the greenhouse heater on eBay but will try the internet.


A happy marriage means not having to spend all your days at the pub and so go detecting more often.

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#496

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
26 March 2021 05:20 pm

oldtimerROB wrote:
Ridge Runner wrote:

Rob if you have the Battery power those Greenhouse/Glasshouse heaters are good for small areas, I am fitting one in mine, If you have Solar power should not be an issue, you can buy them from 300mm to 2.4m in length and are the safest option,

Those Cheap Diesel Heaters are Brilliant and are very cheap to run, and SAFE, I have seen them keep a van warm when it's -40*c outside and about 25* in the Van.

I have also just bought some 12v electric blankets, which makes a good backup plan.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07 … HXHA&psc=1

Hope that helps.

Ridge Runner, thanks for the info. I have not seen the greenhouse heater on eBay but will try the internet.

Here they are, I bought the 12"/300mm version which measures a total length of 16" or 407mm and is thermostat controlled,

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=tube+heaters


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM

#497

Ridge Runner
Member
Joined: 04 September 2014
Posts: 7,682
Member
03 April 2021 11:14 am

I'm testing that 35L Snomaster out at the moment powered by the Dometic PLB-40, I am hoping it will only consume 15% of the power in a 12 hour period which is what it would have to do during the Night when camping until the Sun comes up, If it will stay around that figure I might fit it in the Van,

There are some things I like about this little fridge and some I hate, I love the speed it cools down at and the fact that it can be set to -22*c, I like that it has 3 power settings being Hi, Auto and Low, But the best thing about it is how stable the temperature remains during the On/Off cycles,

When I set it to 2*c it will run and then cut off at around 1.2 to 1.1*c then it will drop slowly to about 0.8*c and when it warms up it will power up when the Temp reaches 2.0*c with a maximum Temp Swing of 0.8 or 1.2*c depending if you count the Drop once it has shut off, Which makes it the most Accurate/Stable fridge I have tested, Where as Medical fridges are meant to be able to stay within 2*c to 8*c so they can have a temp swing of 3*c+/- with a preferred temp of around 5*c, So with the little Snomaster having a Temp Swing of 0.8*c makes it more than Ideal for medicine storage.

Hoping the power Draw on 12v "Low Setting" stays between 15 to 17% then it will be ok to use with the PLB, Anything over that then I might as well use the ARB 78L,

The power Draw on AC and DC "Hi" are woeful, I measured it today running on AC and it only runs on HI when running on AC and it was chewing a whopping 98.4w, Even the Big ARB with the bigger Danfos BD-50 Compressor don't chew that much power. Where as the Snomaster is meant to have their 66watt Compressor but the numbers don't match the 66watts So maybe that is what it uses on the Low 12v DC mode, At 98.4w that is a huge amount of power when you consider that my 244L house Fridge Freezer chews between 92 to about 120w whilst running MAX.

The little Snomaster is a nice little fridge but the Cheap Plastics and the Hi DC setting and the AC power draw is the real killer for this fridge, Other than that it is a great little fridge and due to it's Spot On Temperature Swings makes it the perfect fridge for Oz Travel but if I was buying one in Australia I would be looking and one of the Metal models they make like the 40L or the end opening 42L model. They also make a 56L Twin Bin version too but I would rather the Single 60L. All of which come with A Solar powered Remote Control and the Fridge Cover.

Last edited by Ridge Runner (03 April 2021 11:20 am)


AKA, Fridge Runner.... Ted Bullpit for PM


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