Highsluice

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Gilly47 said:
Good idea MM please keep us informed,, I believe the answer to pressure is to use a larger pipe to begin with and reduce as it flows toward the equipment. There should be some formulas available on google

ray :clap: :perfect: :100:

will do mate the problem is i am the type of person who is a hit or miss type of guy
or if the first one dosent work then get a bigger hammer
lol or jokes aside i will be trying a few different ways to see what works :Y: :Y:
 
Sorry mate I'm a bit confused :lol:
I think I know what your planning to do and unfortunately here in Qld we can't divert the natural flow of the water.lol

So you need the water flowing to get the hose to work your highbanker is that the plan. :)
 
Gilly is pretty well right marksman,that crush proof pipe in the picture is way to small,start with the same size pipe as the outlet on the leaf catcher.it depends on what you are chasing -water pressure,water volume or both ,i think your biggest hurdle will be the height of the sluicebanker,you will have to have the input on the sluicebanker at least the same height or lower to get the same flow out as into the pipe.
You may have to re think the spray bar ,change it from pressure to volume ,so you are not restricting the flow to much.
A example of what i mean-lets say in my sweet potato washer with the brushes in it ,if i ran a pump at say 5,000litres a minute at 30 psi the spuds would come out of the wash with mud on them.
The pump that i ran moved 22,000 litres a minute at about 10 psi, the spuds came out clean, it was water volume that we had to have to clean the spuds not water pressure
Trying to make it a pressure wash can cause a lot of problems if you do not cut the different sized pipes at the right length it buggers all water volume and pressure,i have installed a lot of under ground irrigation pipe, and if we did not follow the blue prints the system would not work.
With my experience with water flow, i would err to the volume side of things.
It is all trial and error and remember the longer the pipe less water
just my thoughts marksman :Y:
 
thanks mate i will take it on board and get a lot of different size pipes and keep trying until i get one that will give me enough water
i am not trying for pressure just volume
 
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Due to a family hospital emergency and me being the only relitave within a 6 hour drive i dont think i will be able to test it this week
unless i can get someone to come and stay with him
on the good side it gives me a chance to get more pipe of different sizes
 
Ok marksman if you want volume only, i would get a pipe the same size as the outlet on the leaf catcher and not change the size of the pipe at all, you want as much flow as you can get ,if you have to much flow you can put a valve or a reducing nipple at the sluicebanker, be a lot cheaper than buying different sized pipes.
I have been thinking about the same idea for my 888 gold rat river sluice,with the height of the creek, i am up to my neck in water to get enough flow for the sluice so i am thinking of bringing the water to the sluice ,a pump is out of the question here so i have to use the creek flow but there is buggerall flow in the creek, which causes me another problem ,flow and volume :argh:
Hope you have better luck than me at the moment
Well i am out of here, off to town to the scrappies to find some bits and pieces to make a new forge, the old one has more charcoal falling out of it than staying in it,you have to get a bit fancy with the footwork when you are in the jap safety boots :lol:, gem season is not far away so i have to sharpen the picks and :argh: straighten the digging bar :rolleyes: don't ask ]:D
 
Got my head ticking again on the principal of it....
I know a canvas bloke, so I might hit him up to make me a
1200 (W)x 400mm (H) vinyl "wind sock" tapered down to 90mm poly barbed fitting.
A sleave each side for 16mm legs. Sleave in the bottom for a sinker chain in it.
Pack down easily to a bucket or a carry bag.
:idea:
 
Like the idea of the wind sock MH ,how would it go with a tent or a swag pole fed through the loops with the pins to keep it in place on the bottom, like on the tent or swag,you will still need a sinker chain.
Got my head aching to now,what if it was made with a flat bottom and domed top and put some loops along the side so you can open it up, to stop it from collapsing if there is not enough flow, you could use tent or swag poles.
I can not see why it would not work MH , you might have to stop it from collapsing to keep the water flow though :Y:
 
Yeah, I should of said 16mm poles/pegs.
And yes perhaps those extendable gal tent posts might be good spreader bars.
Could get a bit of flex / bowing going on but.
Input please :idea: ... electric fence fibre glass rods....
Prob put a couple of tent rope lines out.
It would need the chain in the bottom hem to sink it.
The poles/ uprights might even need to triangular, pointing upstream.
Or rope attached top and bottom to form the triangular shape ...
Then rope it off to pegs or whatever you can get too tie it off with.
Could even be handy to just get your river sluice running a better flow.
The sock will always bloat to shape, trouble Will be anchoring it correctly/ strength.

Sorry Marksman, not trying to rail road your thread.!!!
We all just trying to make the best because of BS rules hey
Keeping it light and portable is a real bonus.
 
I am guessing spray bars would have too much resistance and kill volume flow into the hopper.
Perhaps twin inch outlets like Andy's on Adventure gold might be a good option.
Facing down the hopper.
This may result in a slightly different hopper designe approach for a tailored banker.
Loss of the showering spray bar affect, wall height could be reduced.
A longer narrower hopper may improve water flow over material.
And the skip plate under classifier perhaps be best kept at tighter clearance apart, to assist with more water up top in the raw material zone. ( above classifier) if a full length classifier is fitted.
( best design in opinion)
8mm classifier = 20mm of the skip at top of hopper.
Skip plates and the classifier DO NOT have to be parallel to each other.
A taper of starting at 20mm (top to 50mm (50mm is totally fine on full length classifiers.

It will be great to set up such without looking over your shoulder....
 
What ever size you use to drop the water in the hopper ,you do not want any restriction on the water flow at all,it will be trial and error, you may be up to 4 1" outlets or less outlets but larger to keep the flow ,mine is on the back burner at the moment, i have not got enough water flow :Y:
 
Hi Ken

This may be totally dumb

What would it work like if you got rid of the banker
Just use a big long round (50-60ft) bit of PVC like the little home made sluice made out of pvc with the matting glued to it.
With a hopper at the high end to shovel dirt into.
sort of a home made long tom using the flow as you would as above
:awful:
 
For the sake of the argument.
I have plans to pump water up to a water receptical then syphon
back to the Banker.
Remove the spray bars then use a flute feed.
Laminar flow type setup.

Bit of mucking around but for places like Oallen quite feasable.

After all, Having invested in about 100 meters of lay flat hose and building
a triple impeller pump, Not going to waste it.

10,000 litre colapsable water receptical,
Pump pumps about 1000 litres a minute,
Sluice would use about 100 a minute.
 
Tathradj said:
For the sake of the argument.
I have plans to pump water up to a water receptical then syphon
back to the Banker.
Remove the spray bars then use a flute feed.
Laminar flow type setup.

Bit of mucking around but for places like Oallen quite feasable.

After all, Having invested in about 100 meters of lay flat hose and building
a triple impeller pump, Not going to waste it.

10,000 litre colapsable water receptical,
Pump pumps about 1000 litres a minute,
Sluice would use about 100 a minute.

Triple impeller :) 1000 ltm keen to see that :Y:
 

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