River / Stream Sluices - advice, information and questions

For those curious of the water inlet header box.
This helps keep an even water displacement over the flare.
Easily removed atc.
40mm inlet cam, > 40mm Tee > 2x 40/25mm reducing nipples> 2x 25mm elbows.
Then 2x 25mm nipples. Then cut off the thread off from each of one end of the two.
This will allow you to use them as nuts, clamping the poly fittings between the alloy.
Using these size fittings will require at least 65mm + across the top width the box, enabling the lock nipple to be done up from inside the box/C section.
And at least 40mm in height to get inside comfortable.

On the bottom displacement edge, there is a lip to help balance out the flow evenly. Make 10 to 20mm in height.
This can be folded up at fab time. Or use a peice of alloy angle.

After working out the exact width and angle you need etc, assemble you fittings, T, reducing nipples, elbows. Do the fittings firm, not over tight!
Place on the top centered, and mark the faces of the two 25mm fittings to find the centre hole points.
Tip!
Chances are your hole saw wont be exact size. So when ever reeming a hole as such bigger. Use a thick permanent marker and trace the edge of the hole you've made.
This will help guide you and stop egging of the hole and loosing centers. Repeat as necessary.
Put your nipples in etc.
The over flow sheild 1.6mm ( max) can be prefab angle, 40x20?
Pop rivet that on . Scallop out to fit around the elbows.
The end wings require tunning in on site. The air gap will have to be closed up over about 50mm each end, as the water volume will be more here. Simply tap in with a hammer. (Reason for 1.6mm).
The ends can be a bit fiddly to enclose.
Fold up 2 lips , for top and bottom, and pop rivet it.
Then reach for sum silicon! Inside edge as well.
Then work your clamp method out!

You note I kept the fitting as far back to rear as possible. This helps leave room for the front angle to be attached. Pop rivet zone.

mudgee hunter said:

Mungoman said:

Nice bit of water there MH...
:Y:

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It certainly is a beut flow. Lucky casper

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The year was 2016 when the pics were taken, it was a year when the Gippsland waterways had good summer and autumn flows...

How dose she go casper?
Mosst gold in the first two rows of cells?

Like how it rolls up like that Casper

mudgee hunter said:

How dose she go casper?
Mosst gold in the first two rows of cells?

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........ couldn't really say because the cells are just so tightly packed with heavies.

mudgee hunter said:

Totally agree that with their light weight, one will be much more inclined to walk much further with one.
The quietness of them is a plus!
I think self classification units will take off.
Don't underestimate the 6" or even a customized 4" dream mat.
A good wide flare wil catch more water, enables a better volume of material to be put on the flare at one time.
then all that water going through 4"s! The water and material rockets through, Works a treat.
the 8" dream can be cut down the middle easily with care, to give you 2 x 36"s of 4" mat!
Make two units up or a serious 72" unit !!!!

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Hi MH... how did you cut your dream mat? I've had limited success, it's like trying to cut jelly. When cutting across the mat to shorten it the result is predictable and acceptable.... but same cannot be said for cutting along the mat to reduce the width. By far my best results was from using a sheet metal guillotine.

Is that going to be to much of a gap Casper's,

As in the side you cut,

Would like to make my own sluice one day...

Goody

goody2shoes said:

Is that going to be to much of a gap Casper's,

As in the side you cut,

Would like to make my own sluice one day...

Goody

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It's an example demonstrating the inconsistancy I experienced - the left side is a good cut - the right side is not.

The material the mat is made from is super tough which is a good thing given punishment they get in use ;

Thanks for explaining it Casper

Goody

You need a brand new blade, 20/25mm in width preferably.try not to useit as a hack saw strokes, but long slices like you where skinning a cows hide.
Short strokes will leave dags. But this stuff can linnished off rather well on belt innisher, or a belt sander. Go lightly.
DO NOT USE A 5" GRINDER with the thin cutting wheels! Speaking from experience! What a mess.
Use a little bit of straight detergent on blade only. Too much will make it slippery to hold, and you will getting out the bandaids!
Cut at 45deg. With good a quality blade. Full length of blade slice.
It is possible to cut/divide a pair of cells being carefull. And 8" back to 4" will leave you with one wall on each side.
Best to cut it from the bottom side upwards.
And even clamp along oneside on a bench with 10mm off centre hanging over.
Small imperfections of cuts will near disappear if the mat has to be compressed into the sluice a few millimeters.
Perhaps they may even fabricate a 4" model.
Im impressed with mine as it gets a great flow up.
I would buy a 4" dream mat if it came with the larger cells at the top half, then the mini cells last!
This stuff can be superglued with the cheap glue.
Any air gaps left over willhave to be filled with poyurathane or silicone but, as superglue is no good for that.

But for thesmall price difference, if you wanted a strip of 4", I would buy the 10", sacrifice the inner row of cells.
And get 2 full strips of 4" . This will give you full wall thickness on the cut side of the cells.
Sell or keep the 2nd strip, chucking away the gutted strip.
Note, if building a new sluice. Get the mat FIRSTLY. these are not 300mm wide, converted. But a true 12"s. And best to have it 2> 3mm shy in width of the mat.
Thix will keep it snug against the walls. It dose have a good tolerance without affecting the shape of the cells.

One method of clamping this mat down is to get a bit of 5 <6mm alloy plate x50> 60mm x width of you sluice clamping zone. Tap two 8> 10mm holes in it. 1/3 way in from walls.
Counter sink pop rivets or 5mm SS countersunk bolts from inside under the mat.
Lock tight the 8> 10mm pan head bolts from up underneath. Couple of wing nuts over clamp bracket.
Much better than 2 holes in the sluice and needing spanners, loose bolts etc.
Very cheap way. Always carry a couple of spare SS wing nuts.

You should make them and sell them,....mudgee hunter,

I would more than likely buy one,

And sure others would as well,

Goody

That bread crate is about 10mm off the deck! And 98% of gold I get and see here at clean ups!
Susspended in C channel with webs trimmed back for less interference.
The notching made was to allow the head of pop gun to get in the small gap.
The clamp holds it in place and can be slid out if needed at clean ups.

and that is called a fluid bed.
Chuck a couple of shovel full of loose material in the sluice
to prime it first. :Y: :Y:
It will catch the majority of your heavy's.
The dream Matt will catch the rest.

mudgee hunter said:

That bread crate is about 10mm off the deck! And 98% of gold I get and see here at clean ups!
Susspended in C channel with webs trimmed back for less interference.
The notching made was to allow the head of pop gun to get in the small gap.
The clamp holds it in place and can be slid out if needed at clean ups.

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Cheers, nice simple principal.
I maybe interested in selling the 6"verion shortly with the water headerbox. Having 3 of them might be a bit excessive!