Stones I have cut

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Wally69 said:
Might need to upgrade the iPad camera, just finished an experiment with a honey/blue sapphire bom to fit a ring I found with the detector. Thought it had some star-sapphire potential but it has ended up being twice the size needed at 5.5mm and just under 1ct.

I dont have the heart to reduce it down so will have to try another.

This is the best I can do with the iPad camera, 30 different locations and lights and plenty of cursing.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.co...2677_0b0f11c7-0a77-46cc-bc02-0cfd72860164.jpg

Nice star there Wally :Y:

I agree about ipad cameras (or maybe I just suck at using them) but stars are notoriously difficult to photograph.
 
Lefty said:
Dihusky said:
Finally finished my second stone, a standard round brilliant, did a 'student cut' on a piece of 'bottlite' first, so this is the first 'real' cut. 7ct CZ :) Missed on one meet point next to the table at 6 o'clock but happy with all the others, continuous polished girdle. Finished stone is around 10mm dia so will fit a standard setting which was also one of the cutting targets set by my instructor.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/10304/1529194582_7ct-cz-2.jpg

love the colour, ....oops just noticed the fluff at 12 o'clock... cameras never lie!

Thanks everyone for the input you have offered over previous posts, it hasn't gone astray!

Very nice stone there mate, well done :Y:

My second stone was tv - ite, now becoming scarce with the invention of flat screen tv's :)

You're well on your way :Y:

Thanks Lefty, really appreciate your comment.

Have a few bits of tv-ite colour change which I want to play with, also picked up a large hunk of bottlite at the silver mine when at Gemorama last weekend, caught my eye as it was old, thick and an unusual light pink/purple colour, recon I can can get at least 6 stones out of it. Next project I am thinking of is a pair of black sapphire brilliants for ear studs. Found a heap of black sapphire on the Gemorama trip with many around the 5ct mark so could produce some really nice stones.

Mixed in were the expected spinel plus a few black stones having a 4.5-4.6 sg, crystal structure but left me scratching my head as to what they are, not that it matters as the cut will be for reflection not refraction.
 
How did you go polishing that 10mm CZ? Did it give difficulty?

Did you do a pre-polish first with something like #8000 grit on copper or tin alloy and then do a final polish. That was the advice I got after cutting my first (and only so far) CZ :)
 
Polishing was 8000 on copper as a pre-polish then straight to 50,000 on a catlap, finish cutting of the pavilion facets and cutting all the crown was using 3000 copper. For the most part everything went well except for a couple of scratches on the pavilion from the 8000 copper, had to back track to 3000 to remove them but after a thorough clean of the 8000 copper lap, had no more trouble.
 
Similar to the way I normally approach sapphire by the sounds.

50,000 on a catlap

Were you referring to the Battlap (tin alloy) or is there a new type I haven't heard about? :)

I do have a Battlap but it doesn't get a huge amount of use. Nothing wrong with it at all, just don't require it all that much. I charged it with #8000 so it would probably be good for things might require the loose grit pre-polish before the final. I've never had a problem polishing both sapphire and softer stones on the same ceramic lap but I do recall once trying to pre-polish a particularly troublesome topaz on the same copper lap I use for sapphire, only to scratch the hell out of the stone.
 
Well there you go, never heard of it. I know the name Horst Ricker but I've never met him. Most of the people I knew out there are gone now.
 
Horst has a specialist machining workshop, does repairs and upgrades, replacement quills, dops etc plus the Cat Lap which is $155 + PP, no website but he advertises in the Guild's magazine. Number is 0417 854 104
 
Cheers for that Dihusky. I have no problems but we should never stop trying new things. $155 isn't much for a good lap and it's supporting locals.
 
Yep, found him - 21 Sandy's track, Rubyvale.

I know where Sandy's track is. Might see if I can have a chat to the bloke next time I'm out there.

Cheers
 
Lefty said:
Well there you go, never heard of it.

Don't worry it's age. You're soon forget it again. :lol: :p ;)

I'm left wondering Lefty ......... White metal can refer to numerous alloys - The white metal I have used for casting and bearings was a tin/lead based alloy. In the factory it was also called German Silver.
White metal is a broad term used to describe any type of metals that are alloys of a lighter color. The white metals are any of several light-colored alloys used as a base for plated silverware, ornaments or novelties, as well as any of several lead-based or tin-based alloys used for things like bearings, jewellery, miniature figures, fusible plugs, some medals and metal type.

What alloy was Mal Johnston referring to?

Not sure Dug - we spoke for nearly an hour when I went down and picked the machine up from him and Jenny, lots of information to take in and my brain overflowed.

Could Horst Ricker's Cat Lap amongst others be what he is referring to?
 
Mr Magoo said:
Lefty said:
Well there you go, never heard of it.

Don't worry it's age. You're soon forget it again. :lol: :p ;)

I'm left wondering Lefty ......... White metal can refer to numerous alloys - The white metal I have used for casting and bearings was a tin/lead based alloy. In the factory it was also called German Silver.
White metal is a broad term used to describe any type of metals that are alloys of a lighter color. The white metals are any of several light-colored alloys used as a base for plated silverware, ornaments or novelties, as well as any of several lead-based or tin-based alloys used for things like bearings, jewellery, miniature figures, fusible plugs, some medals and metal type.

What alloy was Mal Johnston referring to?

Not sure Dug - we spoke for nearly an hour when I went down and picked the machine up from him and Jenny, lots of information to take in and my brain overflowed.

Could Horst Ricker's Cat Lap amongst others be what he is referring to?

LOL! Found that when I was searching for his address just before :lol:

Age maketh the brain soft.
 
Better go see him before I forget where Sandy's track is! (on the left just before the bitumen runs out as you leave Rubyvale and head out to Reward along Kielambete road - or have I mixed that up as well?)
 
Wally69 said:
Nice work :cool: love the colour on the CZ it really pops out

How did you photograph your stone, it looks amazing on the black background.

I learnt a little trick when I first started trying to do gemstone close-ups. I got a neoprene stubby holder, cut a hole in the centre of the end of it which was just wide enough for my grabber and took a pic down the tube and it comes out something like this:

1529462560_dscn1663_2.jpg


This one has a little handshake because I was free holding the camera, but the trick is also to use a small tripod that are cheap from all over the place. In this pic I did not have my original tube so I have infilled with a bit of bubble wrap to hold my grabbers in place, so that is what is in the background, otherwise with just a stubby holder the background will be pure black. Try and keep your head a little away from the blocking the light and a standing lamp can be used on dull days. A little mucking around and you will work it out.
 
Good idea there Pat.

I typically use a "gem pod" with a hole punched in the foam with a skewer. The culet sits in the hole and the stone stands upright without too much of the pavilion squished against the foam to interfere with reflection. My issue seems to be in the photography itself. Thought I had nailed it with that "Eye of Zul" but immediately had some trouble with photographing the next stones with the same device.
 
Cheers Ray. I keep on tryin' :)

Where it gets frustrating is most often with sapphires - looking into the stone through the crown, the eye can perceive depth to the stone in a way that the camera can't, which means that it appears less colourful and lively than it really is. :|
 
Photographing the finished stone is the Achilles heel of anyone cutting gems.I gave up using cheap camera's. To many hours of my life was being dedicated to creating crap shots.
Ended up buying a reasonably priced Olympus mirror-less camera which improved it slightly but the biggest improvement was buying a dedicated macro lens. A 60mm (4/3) or 120mm (35mm equivalent). Made a huge differance.

1529538532_lefty_stone.jpg


1529539049_for_lefty.jpg


These pics are early examples but now every other error sticks out way more, dust, glare, bad cuts. But I think overall the shot has improved a lot and I am no photographer of any sort and still trying to figure pretty much everything out. Still experimenting.
Movie's made on the camera also help give it depth and just load to youtube and link. I'm trying to work out exposure settings for that so no example.

I think you'd soon sell more stones to pay for the camera/lens.
 
Lefty said:
Beautiful!!!!! :Y:

Thanks. :) :Y:
But it's just the difference the lens makes. Worth while getting one Lefty. Now I'm trying to work out how to remove the reflections/haze off some of the facets. It's a never ending challenge this gem photography. :lol:
 

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