Wals cat walk mesh

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I have experimented with this stuff for some years now, and I back it 100%.
But with modifications.
Firstly I use the 20mm cat walk mesh as opposed to the 12mm.
Scalloping the high side of the webs really helps a good turbulence in the baffle principal, takes a bit of time to do but very needed.
a much larger air gap between the base of your banker and the bottom edge of your mesh is totally the go, But! You must run an under flow restrictor 3/4 the way up the top, reducing it back to approximately 3-4mm.
I use a piece of angle inverted.
Believe it or not... my air gap is almost 18mm! Not including the restrictor.
If you run this stuff first, you will be cutting down your banker in length in no time!
Honestly ignore all the slanted mesh, moss, this and that. And run 300mm of this stuff... without matting! And you will be surprised at how simple and easy this stuff works.
The cook and I went halves in some dream vortex mat.
I do like it ! I've 18 inches of it after the mesh... not a fly poop of gold in it.
but im sure as the mat will run perfectly in a river sluice alone.
It is nice to have the mat as a back up principal following the mesh.
So easy to clean up with little cons.
im more than happy to keep using it.
dont under estimate buying the 6" stuff. It dose seem to like a good flow of water, this I believe is a better way than too add more decline.
What you are trying to create is a whirlpool, this can be undoone by too much angle. ( my interpretation anyhow)
Your want the water flow and turbulence to make it work more so than just a fast drop.
who cares if you think you have too much black in your cells! It's obviously working and any gold will beat that stuff too the bottom anyhow.
I think if your lower point of the "J" isn't self cleaning within reason. Then add more water before dropping any angle ratio.
Dont expect to just see gold in the cells! If your seeing a lot of black... your on the right track. :Y:
 
1525948672_20180427_154358.jpg
 
As you can see, a next to nothing angle is needed. 5-10 negative degrees is standard.
With this combination of traps, being that the mat seems to prefer high volume of water, I could near run flat.
Dont get caught up in rocket science of plain simple principles I say!
Im more than happy to challenge a banker vs banker,shovel for shovel, as I would love to run a better principal, simpler unit if there is one.
 
Mate, you sure are a Mad Scientist, you will have to let me in on where you are finding all this mesh etc, I'm still after some punch plate!
Hopefully, we can catch up soon when the river is not frozen over! My missus seen a post on Facebook tonight showing snowfalls down Oberon way so yep its here.
I kinda had it in my head to go to Sunny Corner this weekend and play in the mud but who knows.
 
Still have some SS 8MM high percentage punched sheet. Cant post. Can organize the mesh through a friend up the coast.
 
Oops, meant can post sorry. Pm you. The 20mm catwalk mesh is available in west Gosford. Average peice would be $25. Good value.
I'll post a pic of the mesh showing the the scolloping, restrictor etc shortly.
A 5" grinder is preferred, you can use a four inch.
The banker above is one I built for a friend. He wanted it this length.
If I was to build another unit, I would actually make the hopper another 150mm longer if anything.
But this unit above being longer than my other two bankers I've made dose make it more stable.
The remaining 18"s of dream mat, I cut down too 2x 6" mats at 18", then simply used cheap super glue and joined them to make a 36" river sluice.
It can be cut with a good long blade.
And the glue seems to be a good strong join.
I did find that the mat dose not mind being compressed on the walls a little. So 3mm shy of the width of the mat width is fine, and makes a snug water tight fit, thus it will help eliminate sand getting underneath it and lifting the mat during use.
 
1526002457_20180511_105430.jpg


This foto shows the scolloping depth.

Approximately 70mm wide

13mm in depth

Mark the centre of the web to be scolloped, then mark 35mm each side, then mark the same row at the top in the same way.

Use a ruler an align these marks to all the other webs that need doing.

Put a vertical mark down so as you dont loose your grinding width when gringing it.

Then repeat each row.
 
1526002556_20180511_105444.jpg


Part A is the rear restrictor, 32x3mm alloy flat bar, flush with the top of the mesh. 2nd A is 8x12mm angle. Custom cut from 12x12mm.

Part B is a 6mm SS counter sunk bolt, a nut either side for adjustable foot seating.

Part C has an air gap of 12mm from bottom of mesh, ending up at 15mm when the 3mm gaskit seal is in place.

Part D, is the clamp end modified to clamp the dream mat. Notice lip on the end.
 
The outer C channel was cut down from 25mm SHS (box) .
This helps stiffen the mesh keeping it straight, and aids in fitment. Only needs to be 10mm wide.
The mesh fitted in a teared hopper must be at least 60mm from the back wall, lower than the drop zone.
I use a 10mm SS eyebolt with a nyloc nut to set depth, and a wing nut on the under side to clamp with, sandwiched with a 3mm rubber gaskit.
a peice of 40x5 or 3mm flat bar attached underneath is very advisable for stiffening the clamp zone.
and put your pan under the hole when stripping down.
I always know how well I went on that dig just by looking at the gold that falls in to the pan through that small hole. Like a sneak peak! Ha
 
Love your work Dr. Frankenstein :Y:

I thought I had it bad, my case is mild compared to yours!

Do you even sleep?

Nah all jokes aside it seems like you have put a lot of thought into this, thanks for sharing. Looks very effective.
 
Yes RM. mine is 27mm from the top of C channel to bottom of bolt. This keeps an air gap of 3-4mm of the underflow restrictors.
I used 5" big grit flap dics, with the web facing downwards. Stood up right in a vice, Align each edge of the mark to flap disc, and push straight downwards. Use a good Stanley to keep triming the thick burr off.
With the 5", the scollop radius is the same as a new flap disc.
NOTE. The mesh has a small lip on the tread side. This must be ground off to give you flat flush surface at the top and bottom edges of the webb, or it will kick the angle incorrectly. Only needs grinding at contact points. One minute job.
 
1526012654_20180511_141634.jpg


mark the web like so, keeping the disc edges on the point will give you the right depth when using a 5" at a 70mm width on the 20mm cat walk mesh.
Tip. Mark all the webs to be scolloped first with a marker along the top as well, so you dont grind the wrong ones.
 
walked into a scrap metal yard near me the other day, and there they were 2 offcuts of the golden catwalk mesh one was the 12 mm and the other was the 22mm thick mesh, asked at the office, how much will the catwalk mesh set me back, oohhh its been set aside there for a customer not sure if there is any more would the screen door mesh interest you , no , just my luck the catwalk mesh is an Ulrich profile they sell 12mm and 22mm deep oh well just keep on looking if I find some is there anyone interested in some I'm located in campbelltown nsw
 

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