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#226

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
11 October 2017 08:31 pm

LoneWolf wrote:

. If you can source some Old Conveyor Belt for Free, they are real cheap to make, that's the most Expensive bit to buy if you had too...

Good Advice Bogger... thumbsup Nice and Tough...

LW... rainbow

I know just the place I might get something .. will check out the mates scrap yard tomorrow..
You would be surprised what people throw away with their scrap metal ..


every day is an adventure

1 user likes this post: LoneWolf

#227

LoneWolf
Member
From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 997
Member
11 October 2017 08:46 pm

Not wrong there smile .... Just don't make them too low, or they Will get caught-up and Rip out..... I have a 20x20mm tube under the back of my 4X4 that was put on by previous Owner and you just bolt them on when needed... Mine is mainly held on by the Hayman Reece Tow-bar Mount Points..

I love Country Dumps.. smile City Dumps here, you are Not Allowed to take Anything... sad
Something like this isn't too hard to make or get made...

1507716339_s7_526250_imageset_04.jpg

LW... rainbow

Last edited by LoneWolf (11 October 2017 09:05 pm)

#228

limpalot
Member
Joined: 31 July 2015
Posts: 607
Member
11 October 2017 09:24 pm

Google MRT, Mates Rates Tools, they have ally boxes at a good price.
Cheers LL


Home made sluices x 2 & highbanker, ATX, Garret Supa Sluice, Quanta pan,

1 user likes this post: LoneWolf

#229

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
11 October 2017 10:57 pm

These look pretty simple to make ..


every day is an adventure

#230

LoneWolf
Member
From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 997
Member
12 October 2017 03:45 pm

thumbsup thumbsup Nice... Better than Mine.. lol Those are Low enough to put a Metal strip on the bottom for the Sparkler Effect.. devil roll

LW... rainbow

#231

Jaros
Moderator
From: S.E.Qld., QLD
Joined: 11 August 2013
Posts: 6,480
Moderator
12 October 2017 05:08 pm

Looks like a project to do once i'm up and about again.
Jaros thumbsup


Lottsa hope :F1A4M2, Exterra 705 Gold, Ace 250,Aldi detector, ? detector,Garmin Etrex30, 2 sieves,2 pans,2 sluices, Nugget sniffing Cocker Spaniel. X-Pointer PI by Deteknix, Jobe Knife, Leschke Shovel, Pro-swing 45 Harness, Treasuremate 11 Amp.Gurney gusunder. VK4NLS

#232

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
12 October 2017 07:34 pm

Yeah Jaros
Looks pretty strait forward to make a set ..hardest part is finding the rubber or some scrap coveyor belt for the flaps.
LWolf // I recon they would keep the mud and stones off the camper .. and thumbsup keep it from getting damaged

Last edited by nucopia (12 October 2017 08:09 pm)


every day is an adventure

#233

LoneWolf
Member
From: Gold Coast , QLD
Joined: 12 April 2016
Posts: 997
Member
12 October 2017 07:49 pm

Win Win There nucopia.... They do offer some protection....and better access to the rear door, instead of that Dirty Guard rubbing against you. big_smile

LW.... rainbow

#234

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
12 October 2017 08:01 pm

Set the camper up in the front yard this afternoon.
This is the canopy set up.. not impressed with this set up, for one it took a lot of time to attached the canopy and for another its difficult to get all the poles and ropes right also the poles are crap..the other thing is there is not fly screen on this door, which makes it hard to use as an entrance..
1507797288_set_up_2.jpg
Im thinking, It would be better to ditch the canvas canopy at the back of the camper and buy a gazebo to set up on this side of the camper..

1507797333_set_up_1.jpg

Im thinking, if I have a gazebo set up on this side of the camper , I have easy access to the tool box and also the door way on this side of the camper is a better choice as my main entrance, as it has a fly screen as well as the out canvas flap on this door way..

1507797369_set_up_3.jpg
Plus we have easy access to the kitchen from this side, when we need some thing from the ref in the back of the Prado which I can park beside the gazebo as a wind preak
1507797393_set_up_4.jpg

LoneWolf wrote:

Win Win There nucopia.... They do offer some protection....and better access to the rear door, instead of that Dirty Guard rubbing against you. big_smile

LW.... rainbow

I like the idea that you only need to remove two bolts on the D shackle and you can take off when you dont need it..

Last edited by nucopia (12 October 2017 08:12 pm)


every day is an adventure

3 users like this post: BigWave, Occasional_panner, 7.62marksman

#235

Occasional_panner
Member
From: Melbourne, VIC
Joined: 20 July 2016
Posts: 1,506
Member
12 October 2017 08:12 pm

Take it bush before you buy any more stuff, go and use it and you'll understand what you need.
Look at other peoples setups and go look at that myswag site.
Have you got a rollout awning on the 4wd? If so pull up side on and use that at the front.
Lots of the camper annexe setups take too long unless you'll be somewhere for 3+days


4500, diy banker with dream matt and a diy dryblower. PMAV member.
I must have been a wombat in an earlier life, I just love digging.

1 user likes this post: LoneWolf

#236

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
12 October 2017 08:18 pm

Occasional_panner wrote:

Take it bush before you buy any more stuff, go and use it and you'll understand what you need.
Look at other peoples setups and go look at that myswag site.
Have you got a rollout awning on the 4wd? If so pull up side on and use that at the front.
Lots of the camper annexe setups take too long unless you'll be somewhere for 3+days

Yeah O-panner.. I was also thinking a roll out awning on the Prado was another option that would work really well...
I don't have one as of yet ( its on my wish list wink ) I have a set of racks on the parts prado but no special hex key to remove it.
I'll just keep saving and put things together slowly ...
the reason I've set it up in the yard is, I need to do some work on the inside of the camper over the next couple of week and also treat the tent canvas and the canvas travel cover with water proofing solution..

Last edited by nucopia (12 October 2017 08:26 pm)


every day is an adventure

2 users like this post: 7.62marksman, LoneWolf

#237

Occasional_panner
Member
From: Melbourne, VIC
Joined: 20 July 2016
Posts: 1,506
Member
12 October 2017 08:23 pm

Can you set up the annexe at the front?
I know half will be above the draw bar and wasted, but it's one less thing you have to buy for the moment.
Just get by with what you have for now mate, go use it and have some fun with it.
BTW Lookin good thumbsup thumbsup , needs some empty cans on the ground to make it more homely though.

Last edited by Occasional_panner (12 October 2017 08:24 pm)


4500, diy banker with dream matt and a diy dryblower. PMAV member.
I must have been a wombat in an earlier life, I just love digging.

1 user likes this post: LoneWolf

#238

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
12 October 2017 09:55 pm

Occasional_panner wrote:

Can you set up the annexe at the front?
I know half will be above the draw bar and wasted, but it's one less thing you have to buy for the moment.
Just get by with what you have for now mate, go use it and have some fun with it.
BTW Lookin good thumbsup thumbsup , needs some empty cans on the ground to make it more homely though.

yeah there are zips on the front canvas but they dont match with the canopy zips.. must have some parts missing roll never mind ..
Yeah mate will do , hope we can take it to the NAPFA meeting on November 11th thumbsup
Just be glad to get out bush again..


every day is an adventure

1 user likes this post: LoneWolf

#239

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
12 October 2017 09:57 pm

To be honest, I 'm enjoying having things to do each day ..


every day is an adventure

2 users like this post: LoneWolf, Goldchaser1

#240

Goldchaser1
Member
From: Kalgoorlie, WA
Joined: 28 February 2017
Posts: 116
Member
14 October 2017 09:40 am

Looking great nucopia,only checked a few pages out,nice little camper doesnt look to heavy,what are you using for waterproofing,i gotta attack our RT on trailer with something,also have you thought about a longer drawbar,that one looks 1.4-.5?,with a toolbox 1.8 will ease your pain,not such a big job,say 75x50 3mm duragal then some 50 up the middle to make it a triple,6mm plate at front hitch,just a thought....

Last edited by Goldchaser1 (14 October 2017 09:41 am)

#241

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
14 October 2017 10:28 am

Goldchaser1 wrote:

Looking great nucopia,only checked a few pages out,nice little camper doesnt look to heavy,what are you using for waterproofing,i gotta attack our RT on trailer with something,also have you thought about a longer drawbar,that one looks 1.4-.5?,with a toolbox 1.8 will ease your pain,not such a big job,say 75x50 3mm duragal then some 50 up the middle to make it a triple,6mm plate at front hitch,just a thought....

I bought a 2 ltre bottle of Bradproof compound on ebay for $49 delivered. It says that 2 litres will cover 12 square metres.
Just use a roller or brush it on . The weather is over cast today might get some rain ...i will do the canvas cover tomorrow if the sun is out..
Yes its a 1.4 m draw bar ...I thought about lengthening the draw bar but I have no idea how to do it..
1507937478_image.jpg

Last edited by nucopia (14 October 2017 10:31 am)


every day is an adventure

#242

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
14 October 2017 01:19 pm

Over cast and drizzly here in Lake Macquarie today , so I decided to work under the car port and make some detachable "home made " mud flaps for the back of the Prado.
They fit on the tow bar with a U bolt

1507947251_image.jpg

Next stage ; paint on the under coat and a black top coat..

1507947304_image.jpg

Now I only need to bolt on the rubber mats .. And it should be good to go..


every day is an adventure

3 users like this post: Jaros, 7.62marksman, LoneWolf

#243

Jaros
Moderator
From: S.E.Qld., QLD
Joined: 11 August 2013
Posts: 6,480
Moderator
14 October 2017 02:16 pm

Just a little query. Is the steel bar tough steel as the rubber is pretty heavy and may sag at the ends?


Lottsa hope :F1A4M2, Exterra 705 Gold, Ace 250,Aldi detector, ? detector,Garmin Etrex30, 2 sieves,2 pans,2 sluices, Nugget sniffing Cocker Spaniel. X-Pointer PI by Deteknix, Jobe Knife, Leschke Shovel, Pro-swing 45 Harness, Treasuremate 11 Amp.Gurney gusunder. VK4NLS

1 user likes this post: Occasional_panner

#244

Goldchaser1
Member
From: Kalgoorlie, WA
Joined: 28 February 2017
Posts: 116
Member
14 October 2017 03:52 pm

Thanks i’ll suss that bradproof out and get some,got some seam or stitch sealer in a aero can from camp shop but would mind sealing the whole lot.
The drawbar just cut the old one off carefully through the old welds,if your trailers all square up front and measurements are good both sides back to front shackle mounts pretty easy,set it up so you have 1.8 out the front of course with the bars running all the way to the front of your shackle mounts,get the length sorted then make sure both are identical lengths,have the hitch ends finished except for the bottom plate,both identical and finished except for hitch plate all you need is to set them up measuring off the front of the trailer,even measurements all sides across front of trailer and if ya go to bunnings and grab a digital angle finder,even measurements and even angles across front edge of trailer drawbar should be centred,leave a gap at front (hitch area) for offroad coupling or whatever ya running,tack bars in (noticed you said u had a welder),depending on ya welder or skills maybe get a mobile welder to come around and weld it off for ya,oh yeah cut 6mm plate to join and hitch to sit on and tack it on last,then run prob 50x50 x3mm up the middle to a cross section,this one doesnt need to run to far back under trailer but back pass the front trailer crossmember a bit is better,second crossmember if it has one.
Bit of muckng about but it aint rocket science,prob about $200 in steel then a few bucks for a pro to weld it off if need be,this is what i did,built the whole trailer but got a local pro to pop over and weld off drawbar,cost $100,i suck at explaining stuff in words,see if have a pic of mine somewhere,oh and only weld along length of drawbars,never across them.
Easily done,if i can do it anyone can,only problem is looks like not an option of turning yours upside down or clamping new bars in place,cuppla car jacks either side under timber blocks would do it i think.

1 user likes this post: LoneWolf

#245

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
14 October 2017 05:42 pm

Thanks Goldchasser1
Was talking with the neighbour today and he has just had a new draw bar put on his box trailer. He is going to introduce me to the guy that did it for him. They go to the same Church so it was done on a low budget...any way if he can do it at the right price I might get it done when I have a budget . In the mean time what I have now will have to do. Not putting a tool box on it yet nor am I doing the kitchen till I have money to buy materials and pay the guy to do it...


every day is an adventure

#246

Occasional_panner
Member
From: Melbourne, VIC
Joined: 20 July 2016
Posts: 1,506
Member
14 October 2017 06:05 pm

Get it rolling and use it mate, you can change add stuff when time/cash permits.
You've been going 12 months and as you said didn't want to spend a lot or too much time on it.
Looks great at this point. Get it operational and listen to what the wife wants, it really is so much easier that way.
Never know, you may find a nice nugget and buy a flash one next week!

That mudflap bar could have a second bar added (like a leaf spring) in the middle to give it a bit more strength.
Like Jaros said, rubber is pretty heavy, if you go over rough stuff it will cop a hiding.


4500, diy banker with dream matt and a diy dryblower. PMAV member.
I must have been a wombat in an earlier life, I just love digging.

1 user likes this post: nucopia

#247

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,792
Member
14 October 2017 06:33 pm

Jaros wrote:

Just a little query. Is the steel bar tough steel as the rubber is pretty heavy and may sag at the ends?

I think it should be ok Jaros , its 20x20 mm x 1.6 galvanised box steal.. Yeah ...O panner .. i have a piece of box steel left over that i could use as you suggest will test it and see ..
My mate gave me a piece of convayor belt today but its a bugger to cut ... sad
Need to borrow an angle grinder and put a cutting disk on it ...
Im thinking to make each mud flap 500 x 500 mm ..

Last edited by nucopia (14 October 2017 06:36 pm)


every day is an adventure

1 user likes this post: Jaros

#248

Goldchaser1
Member
From: Kalgoorlie, WA
Joined: 28 February 2017
Posts: 116
Member
15 October 2017 09:29 am

No probs nucopia,nice long drawbar is handy especially if fitting a toolbox etc,mines 1.8 with a large box,cuppla months ago i finally got around to mounting a spare up there to,easier reversing with them also.....
Rear flaps are a must,ive got to get around to some for my cruza but i also ran some belt under the trailer as the roads here (wa) were destroying everything under the trailer,plumbing etc,worked well. 1508020025_1f9d7445-b2dc-47da-8bef-420c372ed309.jpg

2 users like this post: nucopia, LoneWolf

#249

jamie
Member
From: lake illawarra, NSW
Joined: 21 January 2014
Posts: 1,313
Member
15 October 2017 10:38 am

That special hex bit you said you didn’t have for the racks, I have a couple of spare ones I think mate if you want one let me know


Garrett Infinium LS, Garrett pro pointer, minelab gpx4500, minelab x-terra 305, homemade river sluice, home made high banker, love of the bush and still searching for gold

#250

madtuna
Member
From: Erlistoun station, WA
Joined: 12 December 2012
Posts: 629
Member
15 October 2017 10:59 am

nucopia wrote:
Jaros wrote:

Just a little query. Is the steel bar tough steel as the rubber is pretty heavy and may sag at the ends?

I think it should be ok Jaros , its 20x20 mm x 1.6 galvanised box steal.. Yeah ...O panner .. i have a piece of box steel left over that i could use as you suggest will test it and see ..
My mate gave me a piece of convayor belt today but its a bugger to cut ... sad
Need to borrow an angle grinder and put a cutting disk on it ...
Im thinking to make each mud flap 500 x 500 mm ..

Angle grinder will suck at cutting conveyor belt. Best to use a Stanley knife and pour water along the cut. Just run the blade deeper each pass.

I've cut miles of the stuff to put under troughs to stop the cattle undermining them.

2 users like this post: nucopia, Jaros

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