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#51

kawman
Member
From: Taree, NSW
Joined: 11 July 2013
Posts: 935
Member
14 September 2016 05:22 pm

yes deadly in the wrong hands....but ridiculously easy to change on the side of the road smile

limpalot wrote:

Make sure you know how to change a split rim, they can be deadly.

#52

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
17 September 2016 01:58 pm

Yeah changing split rims can be deadly.
Its been a few years since i changed any split rims, last time would have been on one of these back in the day.
1474081109_image.jpg


every day is an adventure

1 user likes this post: Chewy

#53

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
21 May 2017 11:09 am

Well its been a while since I had any time to devote to finishing the camper refit. Its been sitting on the front lawn since August 2016 when we went over seas for 4 months and i havent touched it since we returned in March.
Before we left I bought a few things I though I would need to give is power to run lights a fridge charge phones and ipad as well as run a small water pump out bush and also give me a dual batter set up in the Prado for when we were away from camp power.
I bought a 300AH deep cycle battery through a good friend whose is a motor rebuilder and who could get it at trade price = $300
This is what I will put under the bonnet or in the front tool box on the draw bar, and inside the trailer.
I still have to get the tool box. roll

This is what i bought.
Duel battery kit ( still need a second under bonnet battery)..
1495322318_image.jpg

30amp 12/24 volt charger controler with anderson plugs
1495322484_image.jpg

12/24volt 1,000-2,000 watt inverter.
1495322659_image.jpg

12 volt self priming water pump for the water tank.
1495322865_image.jpg

Im looking at a bunnings tool box for the draw bar of the trailer to house the 300AH Battery, the converter/controller etc.
Will probably need to make it water proof as well...
1495323316_image.jpg

Strip lighting for inside the tailer & tent .
1495323687_image.jpg

The next door neighbour is helping me build a slid out kitchen with room for a 2 burner stove a sink w/ faucet some storage area for food supplies and some where for the fridge.. His pretty hand with his tools with a fully tricked out work shop and he has made a mini tear drop caravan to tow behind a three wheeler trike for his brother in law. He also makes kyaks by doing all his own wood laminating and assembly even makes mandolins and guitars for people smile
He recons we can buid the kitchen for about $250 in materials yikes
Next thing I need to look for is a solar panel that will keep the 300Ah battery charged when we are camped out.
Im thinking a 250watt folding panel would be best suited but I am also wondering if I can get away with using a cheaper priced 160watt folding panel... Any suggestionson on panels would be appraciated... thumbsup

Last edited by nucopia (21 May 2017 11:20 am)


every day is an adventure

1 user likes this post: stoyve

#54

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
30 May 2017 12:54 pm

We are back home now for a few weeks and I have time to work on the trailer.
Installing the water pump and some of the wiring today. The guy next door is away so the kitchen is on hold..

Next I need to look at ordering either a 250watt folding panel or the cheaper priced 160watt folding panel...
I know the 52 litre cold station fridge/freezer I have is rated to draw 1.5amps per hour as an AVG over a 24 hour period from the battery. i.e 36 amps per 24 hours as well as running some lead lights at night.

Any suggestions on on panels sizes considering I have a 300 AH deep cycle battery ?
Thanks guys !


every day is an adventure

#55

Bogger
Member
Joined: 01 April 2016
Posts: 849
Member
30 May 2017 02:25 pm

You should be able to get away with the 160 set up but I'd purchase a good MPPT regulator (Genuine MPPT) as the one's that usually come supplied with panels are not much chop even if they are MPPT as marked but most are not . A good reg will ensure you get the most out of your panels


Go-Figure 60 & XT-2003 Pro Pointer Bucket & Spade

#56

davent
Member
Joined: 01 September 2015
Posts: 2,273
Member
30 May 2017 03:27 pm

It shouldn't draw 1.5 amps per hour over a 24 hr period? That dosnt sound right, unless its set at -20 and you are in a hot climate.
I have a 60lt primus, and it draws an average of .75 amp hr over a 24 hr period, set at 2 deg.
I use a 160w solar panel, a 100 amphr ATM, run fridge,lights,recharge gpx battery, never ever felt under gunned.

#57

davent
Member
Joined: 01 September 2015
Posts: 2,273
Member
30 May 2017 03:32 pm

I hate auto spell

3 users like this post: LoneWolf, Tathradj, nucopia

#58

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
30 May 2017 06:57 pm

davent wrote:

It shouldn't draw 1.5 amps per hour over a 24 hr period? That dosnt sound right, unless its set at -20 and you are in a hot climate.
I have a 60lt primus, and it draws an average of .75 amp hr over a 24 hr period, set at 2 deg.
I use a 160w solar panel, a 100 amphr ATM, run fridge,lights,recharge gpx battery, never ever felt under gunned.

No idea davent
That was taken off the anaconda web site i.e 1.5 amps is the average draw per hour over 24hrs.
Misplaced the manual so I cant check the energy rating in the manual.
I have only ran it using 240v mains here at home and it gets down to 2c in a very short time and stays there.
Might have to hook it up to a battery and measure the average draw over 24 hours.

Last edited by nucopia (30 May 2017 06:58 pm)


every day is an adventure

#59

davent
Member
Joined: 01 September 2015
Posts: 2,273
Member
30 May 2017 07:41 pm

no matter, a 300 amph battery, will handle all you throw at it i reckon.
Looking fwd to seeing the trailer finnished, reckon you got a good thing with that!

#60

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
30 May 2017 08:24 pm

davent wrote:

no matter, a 300 amph battery, will handle all you throw at it i reckon.
Looking fwd to seeing the trailer finished, reckon you got a good thing with that!

Cheers davent.
Little by little its coming together.


every day is an adventure

1 user likes this post: BigWave

#61

Occasional_panner
Member
From: Melbourne, VIC
Joined: 20 July 2016
Posts: 1,309
Member
30 May 2017 09:06 pm

300 ah is going to be bloody heavy. Where are you mounting it in vehicle or trailer?
Keep in mind the gross weight the trailer can carry.

What vehicle are you using to charge the aux battery?
That aux charge setup you have is a solenoid type, not a smart charger. So the charging profile will be determined by your alternator, which may not be perfect.

That solar PWM charger you have is ok, mppt will be more efficient, but it will depend on the type of panels and the % of sun the panels get. Some say mppt will give a 10-30% gain, depending on lots of factors. If you intend to spend lengthy periods using it on solar alone then maybe an mppt will be a good idea.
Redarc vehicle aux chargers have an inbuilt mppt charger, but they are bloody expensive, I think mine was $500+.

Toolbox on the drawbar... just keep in mind how much weight will be on the ball.

160watt panel should be fine if you just need to top up for fridge and a tad of led lighting.
Have a look at the lightweight flexible panels. They are much more user friendly, but are prone to scratching, I got two of these.
The big heavy cumbersome framed folding panel is such a pain to take in the 4wd I just don't bother anymore. I got two of the flexible ones and they are so easy to move and pack and set up. you just need to be careful to pack them with foam or a blanket so they don't scratch, as the face of them is just plastic.


4500, diy banker with dream matt and a diy dryblower. PMAV member.

#62

Jaros
Moderator
From: S.E.Qld., QLD
Joined: 11 August 2013
Posts: 6,209
Moderator
31 May 2017 08:31 am

I had a 300 ah batt once.
By the .had travelled from Brisbane to Daley Waters it was dead -Just use Marine batteries now. One in car and one in tool box front of trailer.
Jaros devil


Lottsa hope :F1A4M2, Exterra 705 Gold, Ace 250,Aldi detector, ? detector,Garmin Etrex30, 2 sieves,2 pans,2 sluices, Nugget sniffing Cocker Spaniel. X-Pointer PI by Deteknix, Jobe Knife, Leschke Shovel, Pro-swing 45 Harness, Treasuremate 11 Amp.Gurney gusunder.

#63

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
31 May 2017 12:49 pm

Occasional_panner wrote:

300 ah is going to be bloody heavy. Where are you mounting it in vehicle or trailer?
Keep in mind the gross weight the trailer can carry.

What vehicle are you using to charge the aux battery?
That aux charge setup you have is a solenoid type, not a smart charger. So the charging profile will be determined by your alternator, which may not be perfect.

That solar PWM charger you have is ok, mppt will be more efficient, but it will depend on the type of panels and the % of sun the panels get. Some say mppt will give a 10-30% gain, depending on lots of factors. If you intend to spend lengthy periods using it on solar alone then maybe an mppt will be a good idea.
Redarc vehicle aux chargers have an inbuilt mppt charger, but they are bloody expensive, I think mine was $500+.

Toolbox on the drawbar... just keep in mind how much weight will be on the ball.

160watt panel should be fine if you just need to top up for fridge and a tad of led lighting.
Have a look at the lightweight flexible panels. They are much more user friendly, but are prone to scratching, I got two of these.
The big heavy cumbersome framed folding panel is such a pain to take in the 4wd I just don't bother anymore. I got two of the flexible ones and they are so easy to move and pack and set up. you just need to be careful to pack them with foam or a blanket so they don't scratch, as the face of them is just plastic.

Thanks OP
Cost was one of my considerations when buying items for the build, the other was keeping it simple.
Not sure if what I bought is the best option, but I hope it will do the job.
I have the water tank set up at the back of the trailer as well as the spare tire, so I have to balance that weight with a similar counter weight at the front of the camper.
Thats why I was planning on a toolbox on the draw bar to house the battery Charger and converter etc
Also once the slide out kitchen is in, it will also add weight on the front of the trailer.
Configuring things this way gives me a relatively large storage area inside the trailer over the axle to put camp chairs my wallbanker a small water pump and other odds and ends.
I checked the tow ball rating and it says maximum 250kg on the ball.
1496195362_18817487_482801648732636_1982662705_o.jpg


every day is an adventure

#64

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
31 May 2017 12:59 pm

Jaros wrote:

I had a 300 ah batt once.
By the .had travelled from Brisbane to Daley Waters it was dead -Just use Marine batteries now. One in car and one in tool box front of trailer.
Jaros devil

Just checked the battery its still in the box Sorry I stuffed up, it cost me $300 not 300Ah
Which now changes things yikes
1496195901_18818267_482804215399046_392178510_o.jpg

neutral It weighs 29.2 kg

Last edited by nucopia (31 May 2017 01:00 pm)


every day is an adventure

#65

davent
Member
Joined: 01 September 2015
Posts: 2,273
Member
31 May 2017 01:48 pm

100amph, changes things a bit, but not all that much. During the day, the 160 w solar panel will charge more than you use, and it won't drain much over night.
U use A 100amph agm, and have one of those Waco cool power 36 amph power packs as well, you charge that through the car cig adaptor, but it takes a fair while. I havnt been without power yet,......yet!

2 users like this post: nucopia, RM Outback

#66

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
31 May 2017 02:07 pm

I still need to get another under bonnet battery to set up the dual bat system for the Prado.
More money to spend sad

Last edited by nucopia (31 May 2017 02:09 pm)


every day is an adventure

#67

Occasional_panner
Member
From: Melbourne, VIC
Joined: 20 July 2016
Posts: 1,309
Member
31 May 2017 03:08 pm

Where is the fridge going to live?
If it's staying in the 4wd I would take back that battery and get a deep cycle wet cell, mount that under the bonnet and run the fridge from that.

If the fridge is going in the trailer you could still run the fridge from that under bonnet battery, provided the trailer is hooked upto the vehicle most of the time.
If you want to unhook it for extended periods then you'll need a battery there with it in the trailer.

I have seen lots of people have the intention to unhook their trailer and go off exploring etc, but when it comes down to it the feeling of leaving it unattended is just too much for most people and it ends up going with them everywhere.


4500, diy banker with dream matt and a diy dryblower. PMAV member.

#68

davent
Member
Joined: 01 September 2015
Posts: 2,273
Member
31 May 2017 03:31 pm

Occasional_panner wrote:

Where is the fridge going to live?
If it's staying in the 4wd I would take back that battery and get a deep cycle wet cell, mount that under the bonnet and run the fridge from that.

If the fridge is going in the trailer you could still run the fridge from that under bonnet battery, provided the trailer is hooked upto the vehicle most of the time.
If you want to unhook it for extended periods then you'll need a battery there with it in the trailer.

I have seen lots of people have the intention to unhook their trailer and go off exploring etc, but when it comes down to it the feeling of leaving it unattended is just too much for most people and it ends up going with them everywhere.

That's why I got a tradie trailer. Its lockable. Keeps the honest thieves at bay. When you look at it though, the trailer set up let's you make a base camp, and explore around the area you are in. I drive between 2 and 3.5 hours to get to the start point, which is a 25km sq patch.

2 users like this post: nucopia, Occasional_panner

#69

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
31 May 2017 05:43 pm

Occasional_panner
I'm going to probably put the fridge in the back of the Prado when traveling and then after we set up camp, move it inside the camper trailer canopy some where near the kitchen slide out for easy access.
That's why I was planning to have a separate battery and solar charging system for the camper while camped and a dual battery system for the Prado as well. I have Anderson plugs, I just have to work out a way to switch from charging the vehicle secondary battery to charging the battery in the camper whilst driving.
I'm not too concerned about leaving the camper set up and going off some where prospecting etc
Maybe a good solution is to buy a small Bunning's safe to bolt onto the floor of the camper this one is 200x300x200 for $38
They have others available at a pretty affordable price.
1496213704_b8639bb6-1e13-447a-9d17-325234102a12.jpg
Any way we usually take our valuables with us in the Prado when we leave camp.

Last edited by nucopia (31 May 2017 06:03 pm)


every day is an adventure

#70

Occasional_panner
Member
From: Melbourne, VIC
Joined: 20 July 2016
Posts: 1,309
Member
31 May 2017 06:43 pm

I'de be more worried about someone stealing the whole trailer, or the entire contents. Fridges, batteries and solar panels get stolen pretty often mate.
Most 4wders are bloody thieves and crims mad mad

What you could do is run another lead from your aux battery connected to a VSR ( voltage sensitive relay) So when the aux under the bonnet is up to full, the overflow goes to the trailer connection. Make sure you don't cheap out on leads mate, get decent guage ones.
I used to have a VSR but my batteries weren't lasting very long so I ended up getting the redarc smart charger.
You are more than welcome to have my old one, it still works fine.
The issue with solenoid type chargers is if the vehicle's alternator doesn't charge up to a high enough voltage the battery suffers and has a very early death.
One way to lessen this issue if your vehicle doesn't charge it properly is to have a mains charger at home and do proper maintenance charging there. If you only use the camper for a week or two the battery in it shouldn't suffer too many ill effects if you keep it topped up and charge it properly when you get home.

I went through the same cost cutting measures you are doing, but found that it's just better to spend a bit more at the start and have components that all work together and will last.

If you have the trailer battery full when you leave the solar really should be plenty to keep it topped up unless you go for extended periods in winter, so you may not need to wire it up. It really depend on how long you plan to camp for, if it's 2-6 days I really wouldn't bother.


4500, diy banker with dream matt and a diy dryblower. PMAV member.

2 users like this post: RM Outback, nucopia

#71

Occasional_panner
Member
From: Melbourne, VIC
Joined: 20 July 2016
Posts: 1,309
Member
31 May 2017 09:33 pm

If you are trying to do things in an economical way you may actually be better off buying a mppt charger that has "profiles" not just a set single charge cutoff (like your pwm one is) I have that same one, and it's ok for the price and what it does, but you need to know it's limitations and be able to properly charge batteries at some point if you use that type. If you do use that type you can set it to float voltage while away, and it will keep them topped up but not properly charge them, if you set it to a higher voltage it will keep pumping that higher voltage, killing the battery. Ideally you want one with charge profiles so it boosts to 14.5 or so then backs off and goes into float mode.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-Ener … SwOdpX0jo7
That one will charge the batteries properly as long as it's fed with enough power.
I would probably go that way rather than the expense of heavy cabling from the engine bay to the trailer.

Bottom line is, if you don't look after batteries they only last 2 years... maybe.

Keep that solenoid setup you have for an under bonnet wet cell deep cycle (they handle heat well) and run the trailer totally independent unless you plan to put heavy loads in winter on it.

Edit, if you ever get really desperate out bush, and you run low on the camper battery you can alway run jumper leads from your engine bay battery to the camper one and pump a few watts back in..... there are plenty of ways to swing a cat. wink

Last edited by Occasional_panner (31 May 2017 09:37 pm)


4500, diy banker with dream matt and a diy dryblower. PMAV member.

1 user likes this post: nucopia

#72

nucopia
Member
From: lake mac , NSW
Joined: 07 July 2015
Posts: 1,682
Member
11 September 2017 11:22 pm

Been a while since I had free time to put into finishing the camper, its been sitting on the front lawn helping the grass underneath to grow big_smile
I hope I have a few weeks were I can concentrate on the camper , while the prado is getting fixed.
So went to Bunnings on Sunday and bought clear plastic hose , clamps and connectors to install the water pump to the water tank this week.
Not sure how I will set the water out let up, as the next door neighbor hasn't got the slide out kitchen past drawings on his p.c yet.. but at lest I can get the inlet hose to the tank done and install the pump and most of the hoses inside the camper.
If no more bills come in this week, I want to get the bunnings tool box for the front draw bar along with the wiring for the camper battery /electrics. So I can get that sorted out soon.

I have the dual battery set up under the hood sorted out now. Thanks Occasional-panner for helping me with that on the June camp.
Put in the switch and tester a while back when we were back in Robinvale, it worked really well with the ref in the back running most of the time and easily recharging the batteries when we drove it.

Still need to track down a folding solar panel on fleEbay or some where. More $$ to spend sad
Seems like every one is suggesting a 160 watt panel should be ok for the 100 Ah battery I have.
It only needs to run lights and the water pump when needed and maybe charge a phone or I-pad at night . If anything else needs charging such as 2ways or detector batteries, I can do that during the day or off the car when we are driving.
thumbsup


every day is an adventure

#73

Tathradj
Moderator
From: Tathra, NSW
Joined: 17 February 2014
Posts: 6,210
Moderator
12 September 2017 10:37 am

I have a set of 160 folding and they are fantastic.
I am currently (Excuse the pun. LOL ) upgrading
the Avan with 2 x 60 amp High life sealed AGM
Batteries and a 1500 watt inverter.
The inverter has a remote control on it as well.
All it is for is to run my Micro wave when off grid.
The Van has 2 Led lights, 12v water pump and that is
about it.
Plus a 200 ah battery and that copes very well.
Charged by a 60 watt panel on the roof.

The inverter is only going to be used for those
" Just in case " situations as nearly all of my gear is
run of 12v.
All of this is more than adequate for what I need with a
fair bit of lee way for those excessive weekly off the grid stays. big_smile big_smile thumbsup


NAPFA Committee Member,
A couple of HiBankers inc. accessories, , 4500, SDC2300, Gt1600,
Aldi, Phantom 4 Pro, A Prado 4x4, A'Van Cruiseliner and a heck
of a lot of determination.Not to mention Luck.
Most importantly, A lot of Good Honest Friends.

#74

Jaros
Moderator
From: S.E.Qld., QLD
Joined: 11 August 2013
Posts: 6,209
Moderator
12 September 2017 11:57 am

Just a quick reminder that the safe like this one have an internal battery and you can't open it if the batt dies, in my case 10yrs.
I had our passports, birth cert's locked in ours. I had to take it to a locksmiths and it took an hour to break it open-an hour.
So maybe put a sticker on the safe to routinely change the battery.
Jaros devil


Lottsa hope :F1A4M2, Exterra 705 Gold, Ace 250,Aldi detector, ? detector,Garmin Etrex30, 2 sieves,2 pans,2 sluices, Nugget sniffing Cocker Spaniel. X-Pointer PI by Deteknix, Jobe Knife, Leschke Shovel, Pro-swing 45 Harness, Treasuremate 11 Amp.Gurney gusunder.

1 user likes this post: nucopia

#75

Hotrob
Member
From: Yarram, VIC
Joined: 14 November 2014
Posts: 109
Member
12 September 2017 01:08 pm

Hi Nucopia,

If you haven't mounted your tool box yet a good idea is to mount it on the draw bar with enough room behind it fit two jerry cans. Makes it very easy to hold them in place because the tool box is in front & the camper body is behind. just have to stop them slipping out the sides. Also the tool box protects the jerry cans so you can use plastic ones. This is what I have done.
Hope this helps.

Rob.


Old AmerIndian saying...... White man walk a lot but see a little.......red man walk a little but see a lot.

2 users like this post: davent, Occasional_panner

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