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I'm interested AR...as this mixture usually 'adds patina' (dk brown -black), usually the opposite of what folks do with their finds,...why would you want use it on coins?

Is there a 'look' your trying for and just experimenting?

Cheers
Gypsy
 
Yeah mate, re-patina experimenting for display. Some of those copper coins come out horrid and using a black texta and rubbing off the excess gave it that dark color again and also made the raised edges clearer. Just wondering.if anuones tried it before I have a go. Only other option is to maybe re coat them to cover the pits, but ud need some whiz bang awesome gear and business to do something like that.. ;)
 
Ok, so you are after a 'dark' patina, and not the Unc. rosey pink finish?

If so, you need to re-activate the surface (it will have oils and such on it)..then let it sit and oxygenate...the 'age' look takes time....

I'd recommend the 'Armorall' de-greaser.....works best of any i have tried, especially on hyd. fluids and diesel..

It appears the SoL may work..perhaps try on an old 2c piece first if you don't trust it on PD's...

There are some electro-chemical ways to do this, but i wouldn't advise it myself...

Now, as to re-coating pit building....hmmm, who do i know who can do that?...hmmm ]:D :cool:

GGA
 
Sounds like your making Haggis :eek: :lol: :lol: :lol:
What about heat treating the penny to change it's colour, the penny key ring I made for my GF the pennys were toast, annealed a few times while bending polished with autosol then maybe 4 months later started to look like real patina :Y: long way to go to get blackening but after cleaning the right heat will change the colour to look cool :cool:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-E5bf9YfVk
I only use a small map gas torch :Y: propane will be sufficient

Edit GF just got home and this is about 6 months of patina living in a hambag :lol: :lol:
1487226707_kukuk_001.jpg

coming along nicely but a long way of blackened
 
Awesome advice cheers guys!

What im after is to see if I can get a close to that dark green patina on pennies, or close to as well as what B5 has awesomely displayed here.
Yeah I dont like that rosey pink or the matte brown they can turn. Will be better in display the green than faded brown and patchy copper pits. Testing on bb's good idea GG

Im willing to let time and oxygen do its work, but im not sure it will totally work on those real damaged ones I more want to 'mask' over, but still keep the detail best as possible. Will try the suggestions and Gypsy - you mentioned it, so feed my ears of this electro-chemical way. Electrolysis or bit more fancier
 
AtomRat said:
B5 - have you ever considered that after you have heated a penny to red hot and it has the black carbon crust.. Youve actually made a solar panel? :eek: zomg science!
Never knew that AR :eek: it'd be funny to see a black penny solar panel :lol: :lol:
could be a market for them selling them to camping coin collectors :lol: :lol:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...2&ved=0ahUKEwi6nfKVjZbSAhULV7wKHaG3BEoQsAQIHw
Are you after the statue of Liberty green
https://www.sciencecompany.com/Patina-Formulas-for-Brass-Bronze-and-Copper.aspx
Pick a color
https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/09/how-to-patina-copper/
http://jewelrymakingjournal.com/vinegar-and-salt-patina/
this style may need sealing after, but I don't think the electroplating will build up enough to fill the pits in
alright check this out my perfect green penny 8) actually looks like it's anodized
1487299893_perfectgreenpenny_001.jpg

1487299893_perfectgreenpenny_002.jpg

Now this penny is a local penny and from the area it came from it should be toast :eek: but.........something has me puzzled
I believe the penny may be naturally electroplated :rolleyes: this came from right beside in between roots of a cut tree stump which has I think it's electrical main wires running underneath from sand swamp dirt :eek: I'm thinking it was close enough to power wires and the tree stump rotting has coated it perfectly :eek: maybe :lol: :lol: :lol:
The one where you brush it and let it dry in open air maybe dip it let it dry for a day and redip it every couple of days til the coating gets thick enough to seal
I'd first experiment with copper tube offcuts and when you have it sorted maybe try a BB, would beat cleaning 100 BB's for it :mad: :rolleyes:
I don't want you guys to get the BB curse :eek: the next 6 years of the ground raining BB's :mad: :rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
When electroplating the 'pits' you only need to isolate the surrounding area so you can build them up....

Home set-ups are usually a set regulated supply,with slow and/or low transference....industrial set-ups allow for higher volume t/over, but require more attention as you can 'burn' the application... ;)

I could have those pit's built up in 20-30 mins...then perhaps a little bit of polishing back to surface level..

Only way to stop the color going beyond your desired level is to seal it to put a stop to oxidizing...but it will continue to change over time regardless....just much slower than without. :Y:

GGA
 
Gee i think i might have a go at every method supplied by you blokes, didnt realise soo many! And some of them chems used look fun too :D
Ive got some regulated power supplied gypsy but i think they were only 2 or 10 amp. Ill have to unbury them
 
Depending on the size of your anode/cathode used, and the surface size of a penny, the 2A for beginning would be slower, but better suited for first time attempts as you will have more control, as i hardly ever hit 10A while working small items.

If stuck with the 10A, all you can do is stand by while having a go...but as you are looking for that 'black' look, perhaps the 10A may be better suited as there's a possibility you will burn the finish.. :D :Y:

Keep us updated on your results :Y:

GGA
 
AtomRat said:
Gee i think i might have a go at every method supplied by you blokes, didnt realise soo many! And some of them chems used look fun too :D
Ive got some regulated power supplied gypsy but i think they were only 2 or 10 amp. Ill have to unbury them
I've seen a guy that uses an old phone charger to deplate silver plate in a jar but..... can't remember which chem he used and worked well :eek:
 
Just a reminder....the difference between the PD's and DC's in the 'copper's'...should you 'practice' on the DC the finish you decide upon may not end up that way on the PD's....PD's had Tin, whereas the DC has nickel, as such a slightly different, though similar, reaction/finish. ;)
(Tin has a higher level of oxidation...)

GGA
 
................................................OOOooonooooo :mad: :mad: :N: :N: :N: ..............................................
.............................Pray it ends soon............give homage to the lucky shrine :rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :8 ....................................
1487303660_mmm_001.jpg

..................................................Yoda and Buddha will save you...............................................................
 
GypsyGoldAu said:
Just a reminder....the difference between the PD's and DC's in the 'copper's'...should you 'practice' on the DC the finish you decide upon may not end up that way on the PD's....PD's had Tin, whereas the DC has nickel, as such a slightly different, though similar, reaction/finish. ;)
(Tin has a higher level of oxidation...)

GGA
Certainly forethought the different alloy within the different coins! Al and I were speaking today about how strong the 1c coins are and I said its proba ly due to higher copper content / conductivity, where as maybe the 2c has a bit of nickel or something etc :)

Love the shrine B5!! :lol:
 
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