Welding gas, Argon, Oxygen, Acetylene, gas bottle refills, no rent

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BigWave said:
I'm now doing the Bunnings gas exchange. :) Told BOC to go to hell
That's it BW :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Bye bye :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
B5MECH said:
I can't type too much due to :p alco"bdayproblems :lol: :lol: :lol: Silicon bronze got introduced into the auto repair trade in the last few years specifically for the newer chassis types which are hi-tensile which in engineering laws is really unweldable after factory as far as IMOP :8
but AAMI at the time made their repair's get a whole special welder set up to deal with repairing it or else :mad: :lol: :p , I was asked to go and try and set it up for him :8 I wish I did, But only a waste of a day and beers were on offer :p , I believe it's very smooth and ends lilke a migged braze :cool: The auto trade usually uses argon co2 which covers everything from exhaust to panel
then stainless and alloy is argon tig is argon
I guess if your just using mig argon/co2 then if you have mig/tig which is my book and I don't wan't 2 bottles around I find straight argon covers all
What gas do you run for gal Ken? Is it trailer work?
My beers low gota go :p

Correct on the chassis repairs .

Big plus with panels too because the CuSi / silicon bronze leaves 90% less distortion if used correctly .

If you had free money to throw around you might play with helium / argon mixes too but I think I stock enough gas already :(

Supagas SS 98 is an argon CO2 mix but they don't publish composition ratios , BOC quote 2.5 % CO2/ argon for their SS light.

If you ever get a chance , have a play with the Kemppi RA or kempact 3000 pulse (double pulse) machines , in a smash repairer you could tackle all the European performance cars with their aluminium chassis or zinc plated bodies .

If you try those machines out I suggest super glue on your feet before you get dressed otherwise they will blow your socks clean off :D
 
B5MECH said:
I can't type too much due to :p alco"bdayproblems :lol: :lol: :lol: Silicon bronze got introduced into the auto repair trade in the last few years specifically for the newer chassis types which are hi-tensile which in engineering laws is really unweldable after factory as far as IMOP :8
but AAMI at the time made their repair's get a whole special welder set up to deal with repairing it or else :mad: :lol: :p , I was asked to go and try and set it up for him :8 I wish I did, But only a waste of a day and beers were on offer :p , I believe it's very smooth and ends lilke a migged braze :cool: The auto trade usually uses argon co2 which covers everything from exhaust to panel
then stainless and alloy is argon tig is argon
I guess if your just using mig argon/co2 then if you have mig/tig which is my book and I don't wan't 2 bottles around I find straight argon covers all
What gas do you run for gal Ken? Is it trailer work?
My beers low gota go :p

Happy birthday
A little bit of trailer work, almost none. Just looking at bunnings and coregas and the mig gas they have is from the colours on the bottle is Argon Oxygen Carbon dioxide mix. The gas i'm running at the moment is argon 07 from supagas which is a 93% Argon 7% Oxygen mix. It should give a little more penetration than the bunnings gas.

I think I will be going for the bunnings coregas though when I empty this damn bottle. Ken.
 
Did the Bunnings deal yesterday. There was a $200 "deposit" on the bottle, then $99 for the gas (I probably only use a bottle every 2 years).
Whilst you own the bottle, they call it a "deposit" because you can take it back to the store anytime and get your money back - just hang onto your receipt. Am guessing $200 won't be worth shite when I reach 100 years (in 2055), but may still buy a round or two at my local - if they still make beer :eek:
 
B5MECH said:

The gasweld is about 50km from the nearest depot but the speedgas has a guy that delivers to my area so they may be the go. Just got to empty that bottle. Ken.
 
Emptied my BOC one today fixing the gate in slightly windy conditions so had to turn up the flow. Finished with the new Bunnings one.
BTW, what's best for mild steel: Co2, Argon or an 80/20 mix? I've always just used Argon, but it's pricey compared to plain CO2 which some use.
 
Argon co2 mix is fine for mig steel, but not for tig, the argon is more expensive but if your doing low current work it helps due to argon burning hotter
You can use argon for mig it's more the price argument of do you do any stainless and alloy work
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/welding-gas.htm
http://shdesigns.org/Welding/gasmix.shtml
All depends on how picky the job is, you can use argon for everything but you cant use argon co2 for everything
Now it's becoming cheaper I might buy a mixed gas next time I need to use my mig :)
 
HeadsUp said:
if people want to save a little bit of money on Oxy acetylene , Try using Oxy / LPG instead.

I save around $ 1150 per year by doing without acetylene.

I use G size Oxy and 9 kg LPG bottles , its a safer gas with lower explosive risk , you can fill them up or exchange anywhere 24x7 , cutting and brazing tips are available to suit Oxy/LPG , (you cant use the old Oxy acetylene ones with LPG)

(I run a business and pay $ 200 per month for rented bottles)
Hey HU, on your lpg oxy set up have you tried Auto lpg gas, should get a little more heat out of it over BBQ lpg
It is a little more of a hassle but if your set up with a smalish donut tank and you know what your doing is like putting gas in your car :)
Auto gas is very regulated, when you buy it the console operator when asked has to supply the customer with the propane percentage by law
Never tried it but I've been meaning to go ask the Indian across at shell :lol: :lol:
 
B5MECH, it's only been mild steel for me (95%). On the rare occasion that I need Al or SS welding, I take it to a shop. Hardly ever use my arc these days (gotten soft I guess).
My auto helmut is too bloody dark - even on DIN 9, I can't see the material joints and my eyes are OK (I think). Must have bought a dud from CIG. Even my hand-held at DIN 9 was way brighter. Any recommendations? I've heard Millers, but damn expensive.
PS: I subscribe to the motto that "Behind every reasonable welder there's a good grinder", so I'm clearly not in the A1 class :D
 
I'd go for argon co2 5 to 25%, go for the cheaper gas, then get a small argon as needed for the SS and AL
ww.bernardwelds.com/mig-welding-shielding-gas-basics-p152080#.WE5SJn1QXIU
What ever is the main work you do being heavy to light, heaver being higher co2% and lighter gauge lower percent
you can go 5 to 25% but depends on what the supplier sells cheapest
:lol: :lol: :lol: My eyes are bad and have always struggled, lately I bought glasses which helped but I find in a dark room and I use a bunnings led work light just to make the joint surfaces shine 8)
My new helmet is a cheaper one that I got with my tig, my name brand helmet used to flicker and be a pain because the led would effect it
I still strain to see though :lol: :lol:
 
So, I'm unsure how to proceed. Do I buy a high powered work light to illuminate the joints but may prevent the helmut from darkening. Is there a helmut that brightens to DIN 8?
 
I use this, magnetic base and back and swivel head, as long as the helmet doesn't see direct light it won't have issues, and the light on top is handy to hi-light along a 90 degree fillets
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-37-led-utility-torch_p4410585
Cheap and if it gets burnt owell :lol: :lol: I'll get another 2 :rolleyes: 3x AAA batterys
My old one was a SPEEDGLAS was an excellent helmet but people don't respect tools and years of being dropped made it dodgy
My newy I got with my tig is an automatic camo WH8000 ? :lol: :lol: :lol: works a treat, But I now believe I could have repaired the speedglas :rolleyes:
Repairing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23JJn4cNh6A
Maybe your batteries are flat, I think that might have been my issue
Shopping link I didn't want to loose for further investigation 8)
https://www.nationalwelding.com.au/
 
I have a solar panel in mine, and without being in the sun for a while won't auto darken, so I'm assuming the battery system is OK given that it auto darkens. It also charges whilst welding. Probably need to watch someone else welding whilst varying it from DIN 9 to 13 to see if it changes. My handheld with the 9 filter is just a little dark for small jobs, but otherwise fine. The auto unit is damn dark. Guess I've just gotten lazy with the auto units.
Welding up dolly pots atm as I have lotsa rock awaiting crushing and panning :)
 
Got get that job done :)
I can't find a replacement unit any where, my helmet book lists it has the 9-13 DIN but lists a 5-9 just cant find a listing in a weld shop or even a 5-9 helmet :(
Maybe go for a lighter lens in the hand held might be the go
If you could find that spec it might be easier to buy a $99 complete helmet for the ease of not swapping units not that it looks hard :)
There's some junk ones on ebay but some tool and welding shops sell budget ones, mine came through WELD SMART in WA
http://www.weldsmart.com.au/
 
Today I bought the CigWeld ProPlus - Blue 454350 auto helmet. Has a DIN range from 8 to 13 for welding. If I can't see through this sucker with my MIG and ARC, then I'm legally blind :lol: Contacted BOC again today to ask about Argon D cylinder return. I don't think they want it, so I may end up with two ;) IOU B5MECH.
 
Only for welding mate, and I'll be ordering a magnifier to suit my eyes . I think Aussie made still?
Cheers again.
PS: your avatar seems to be getting higher up that wall. Wonder what's next? Riding upside down? I'm game - bring it on!
 
Thanks BigWave just found something new I'll have to look into, magnifier lens for auto helmets :eek: :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg2oEpzJR6Y
I think I'll have to check the local weld shop if they suit my eyesight 8) :lol: :lol: :lol:
the other problem the guy mentions that he has is reflections, to beat that I pull a hood up so no light gets access to the back of my helmet which defeats reflection problems ;)
 

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