Building the Kreekeeda 300 and 250

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Something related to the above question that needs thought...

While im digging and sluicing hard im really concerntrating on processing my material, its hard to notice a drop in spray pressure until its gets to a point where you really notice it but by then ive been choking my sluice without realising. I see this as a big problem!!!

Another feature to this build that i havent put in yet is a flow rate meter, ive searched the world for a simple tap in guage but all i could find was a houshold tap flowrate guage and thats no good. Ide like to know a a measurable flow rate setting and to be able to monitor it while sluicing incase there is a filter clogg problem.
The next best thing i found on ebay is liquid pressure guages 0-30psi/0-60psi from memory for around $30 i think. Im wondering if installing 1 of these i could get an accurate operating psi between pump and spray bars. Im guessing that if i got a filter clogg the pressure in the line would fall and i would see it happen as it happens and deal with it.

Thoughts fella's? :cool:
 
Thanks for the posative comments everyone, glad you like...the amount of thought that ive put into this consumed me from the moment i woke up until i went to sleep for months. Its development began before i knew it and its a result of what ive learned from the feild and from taking in what some members said to me at the beginning...thank you Gold and thankyou Prospecting Australia!!!!!!!!

This was expensive to build and insanley time consuming...e.g...i spent nearlly 2 big days just rubbing back with 400 and polishing with a 100mm buffer head on a ozito hammer drill. got an ozito jigsaw now just to complete the bunnings D.I.Y ozito tool box lol.

I really enjoyed building it but getting the welding done by someone else wasnt a good experience AT ALL...MUST buy my own welder and learn!!!!!

note...when working with alloy do everything you can to avoid scratching it...i sanded by hand to get directional scartches to buff but i think i will get an ozito sander and go all the way with wet and dry.

In the future i will be building a special mini 150 goldliner edition...it will be the dux nuts! ;)
 
20xwater said:
Something related to the above question that needs thought...

While im digging and sluicing hard im really concerntrating on processing my material, its hard to notice a drop in spray pressure until its gets to a point where you really notice it but by then ive been choking my sluice without realising. I see this as a big problem!!!

Another feature to this build that i havent put in yet is a flow rate meter, ive searched the world for a simple tap in guage but all i could find was a houshold tap flowrate guage and thats no good. Ide like to know a a measurable flow rate setting and to be able to monitor it while sluicing incase there is a filter clogg problem.
The next best thing i found on ebay is liquid pressure guages 0-30psi/0-60psi from memory for around $30 i think. Im wondering if installing 1 of these i could get an accurate operating psi between pump and spray bars. Im guessing that if i got a filter clogg the pressure in the line would fall and i would see it happen as it happens and deal with it.

Thoughts fella's? :cool:

Not sure if this would work but on my swimming pool pump is a pressure gage to let you know if the system runs well. I can ask my plumber.
 
beautiful engineering this will be the flashest one at the creek

not sure about your riffles as i think they will tend to clog ,I guess a live test will be the answer

very well made
rgds ron
 
wouldve thought providing the psi gauge is sensitive enough that if u had a blockage enough to affect the pressure being released that the pressure on the guage would go up? depending on the positioning of the gauge. positioning the guage visibly around the V neck or nearabouts (showing pressure in the line) would also be advantageous if for some reason the pump has a slight issue, providing the pump is high quality and produces a constant flow once setup this would kill 2 birds per say? just a thought
 
20xwater said:
I really enjoyed building it but getting the welding done by someone else wasnt a good experience AT ALL...MUST buy my own welder and learn!!!!!

Definitely a handy skill to have, takes some practice though. Had the same idea myself a while ago and pulled the trigger on a Cigweld Weldskill 200 AC/DC (TIG and stick), paid around $1600 from memory. Did a lot of research and it was by far the best equipped unit for the price - and best looking/menu layout. Pretty sure it is actually a re-badged Thermal Arc 186 AC/DC that they sell in the states.

1418633505_cigweld_tig.jpg


Good work, impressive looking bit of gear. Really a piece of artwork. Will be a shame to get it dirty!
 
Ronk said:
beautiful engineering this will be the flashest one at the creek

not sure about your riffles as i think they will tend to clog ,I guess a live test will be the answer

very well made
rgds ron

ive been using vertical riffles for yonks mate...tested thoroughly before this build!!!...ive just got back from giving this machine its first run on the sticky clay...ive recorded video clips of EVERYTHING from starting the pump,hopper cam loading material and sluice cam footage,footage results of each moss mat and boilers panned seperately from bottom to top...stay tuned :cool:

ps...this machined performed awsome even in clay...not a single problem...im so happy because i dont have to change anything...the prototype is the finished product...money well spent :cool:
 
20xwater said:
Ronk said:
beautiful engineering this will be the flashest one at the creek

not sure about your riffles as i think they will tend to clog ,I guess a live test will be the answer

very well made
rgds ron

i dont have to change anything...the prototype is the finished product...money well spent :cool:
That's the most important thing with any build 20, job satisfaction, to much nowadays of "she'll be right" or "that's good enough" you have nailed it on the head by being able to say money well spent, design fabrication can be one of the most expensive and difficult things one can undertake, to be able to pull it off in the first go is a credit to you, the worlds your oyster now mate, the choice now is do you fill em full of gold, manufacture, or sell manufacturing plans?
Your choice, enjoy :cool:
 
:cool: :cool:
dwt said:
20xwater said:
Ronk said:
beautiful engineering this will be the flashest one at the creek

not sure about your riffles as i think they will tend to clog ,I guess a live test will be the answer

very well made
rgds ron

i dont have to change anything...the prototype is the finished product...money well spent :cool:
That's the most important thing with any build 20, job satisfaction, to much nowadays of "she'll be right" or "that's good enough" you have nailed it on the head by being able to say money well spent, design fabrication can be one of the most expensive and difficult things one can undertake, to be able to pull it off in the first go is a credit to you, the worlds your oyster now mate, the choice now is do you fill em full of gold, manufacture, or sell manufacturing plans?
Your choice, enjoy :cool:

thanx mate, i really appreciate what you have said and that means everything to me ey. video of performance needs to be seen first!

i still have a really important feature to build for them and also im still designing(in my head) another way to break down clay in the hopper ;) :cool:
 
1418857059_runing_1.jpg

1418857059_running_2.jpg

1418857059_running_3.jpg

1418857059_running_4.jpg


best signal i can get where i am i have to drive 12kms down the road and it drops in and out of nextG :(

lappy is low on ram to create video...mission!!!!!!!!!!!! :cool:
 
That looks the goods 20x...your spray bars are awesome and looks like it would do a decent job of busting up clay aswell.

Looking forward to seeing a vid
 

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