(DIY) F1A4 Simple Mod information (hope it helps)

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Very simple Paint diagrams of the F1A4 mods (mostly a wiring thing)

If you're unsure about anything, ask..

1403591199_f1_mod.jpg

1403591209_headphones.jpg

1403591216_sany1824.jpg

1403591224_sany1825.jpg

1403594181_coil_mod.jpg
 
Great information. this will be very helpful for when i get mine.

your unit looks great.

Is that an audio booster on the side
 
Thanks,

And yeah, It is a Class D Amplifie, info on the build in DIY section..
Its a great battery saver, the internal speaker (which i removed) chews batteries pretty fast, booster amplifies the headphone out, using a lot less power..

- Dh.
 
So, since i have the Flu (ugh) and will be spending my weekend in front of the computer i figured I'd share a little more on a mod I'm working on. (or will be in a week when my order arrives)

Anyway, I want to get the battery pack off the detector and in my harness.. SO! .. I hit RS, found the correct 62GB plug/sockets, to build a cable..

Links:

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/7081182/
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/0450118/
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/0450118/ (costly little bugger) Alternative would be to slip some heat shrink over it (not recommended) dodgy lol.

And a Minelab Power Lead 5-Pin Heavy Duty ($58 from minersden) butcher the ends (keep the plugs! damn handy) Another option is just a meter of pro audio cable from Jaycar (much cheaper) I'm going with the Minelab cable because its stretchy!!! :D

You really only need to wire up pins A+(red) and D-(black) (CHECK THE INSIDE CONNECTOR!!! NOT ALL F1A4's WERE CREATED EQUAL! some older units had pins A+ B-..
Or simply pin out with a multimeter, assume that A is positive then work you way around the pins, If yours is a later model F1A4, then You'll notice pins D, C, B (with black probe) give between 5.2 and 4.8 volts..

I would recommend hooking them all up (less) the yellow wire (it is for data logging and not required)
Note: that you can bypass the battery pack all together by connecting pins A+ D- to any 5.8 to 6.5volt battery, any more than 6.5v and the machine wont start..

I wouldn't recommend it, Pull up circuit in the battery pack gets a lot more run time out of your batteries..

Anyway when RS deliver and Its built I'll post up some pics..

Much luck to you all!
 
Great looking pair of F1A4's Downhalo, I like what I see! Makes these detectors look like a more attractive proposition as every day goes by. I appreciate the valuable info. :)
 
nice work again DH.

do you know if there is a lithium upgrade for the f1a4?
what 2 terminals are + and - etc?
 
cheers thanks mate.
was it a 6v battery you used?
do you have any other pics of how you wired the battery etc?
 
I'm currently using a 6v Sealed Lead Acid battery, 4.6Amp hours 4600mAh ... Tested so far, runs for about 5 hours non stop.. with headphones. And they're about $14 ea.. So i bought 5 of them.

1404127343_wiring.jpg

1404127355_blackbox.jpg


Now If you're talking about wiring up the Li-Ion batteries, I'll have to describe it to you since they're a pain in the ass to rip apart, and once glued together they're never coming apart.

So basically i buy these,
1404127640_akgrhqf_qmfbml6s2wwbqejsvd-_60_57.jpg


Crack them open, solder wires to the + and - drill a small hole for the wires (use good thick wire) reseal the battery, then solder on a couple of XT60 connectors
Velcro the battery to the side of the detector and You're good to go..

I've got a couple batteries on the way, I'll take photos of how I wire the up when they arrive.

The regulator in the F1A4 battery case will make sure the detector doesn't get more than 6.16*ish* volts..
The black box attached to my SLA battery has a DC-DC buck inside, converts 7.2v to 6.2v.. I guess i don't NEED it but safety first :)

- Dh.
 
Try one of these bro, Hit up ebay: 331202172220
I used it to mount my control box to the straight shaft. check it out.
 
downhalo said:
I'm currently using a 6v Sealed Lead Acid battery, 4.6Amp hours 4600mAh ... Tested so far, runs for about 5 hours non stop.. with headphones. And they're about $14 ea.. So i bought 5 of them.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/189/1404127343_wiring.jpg
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/189/1404127355_blackbox.jpg

Now If you're talking about wiring up the Li-Ion batteries, I'll have to describe it to you since they're a pain in the ass to rip apart, and once glued together they're never coming apart.

So basically i buy these, https://www.prospectingaustralia.co...4127640_akgrhqf_qmfbml6s2wwbqejsvd-_60_57.jpg

Crack them open, solder wires to the + and - drill a small hole for the wires (use good thick wire) reseal the battery, then solder on a couple of XT60 connectors
Velcro the battery to the side of the detector and You're good to go..

I've got a couple batteries on the way, I'll take photos of how I wire the up when they arrive.

The regulator in the F1A4 battery case will make sure the detector doesn't get more than 6.16*ish* volts..
The black box attached to my SLA battery has a DC-DC buck inside, converts 7.2v to 6.2v.. I guess i don't NEED it but safety first :)

- Dh.

so far im working out to get approx 8 hours out of the D size batterys.
maybe ill just stick with them.
 
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