Picks - Should You Sharpen Them Or Not?

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OK, so I've read conflicting things at different times in different forums. Some have said that if you sharpen your pick you are just grinding/filing it away. Other times I've read where people mention sharpening their pick.

I love my pick, and it has had some good deep workouts in different types of GT ground over the past couple of years. But all the Ironstone, Quartz, Granite, and gravels have taken their toll on its performance I feel. I know I'm getting older each year, but it does seem to take a little extra effort lately to scrape out a hole with it.

What's the consensus on the issue?

And here's a couple of pics of my pick, just taken by my youngest daughter for me.

1606630324_pick1.jpg


1606630341_pick2.jpg


1606630393_pick3.jpg
 
Definitely sharpen it ..... but don't ask me how, been told that if using grinder it can get too hot and weaker it (gets blunt again but quicker?).

Regret not getting mine done by the bloke that fronts up to the Bash each year ..... guess he knows what he's doing.

Cheers T.
 
I just had to google that Patrick :8

Do you mean the same as a flap disc like this?

1606632702_flapdisc.jpg


Either way, I wasn't planning on getting it too hot. I was thinking on keeping it cool like when you sharpen a drill bit etc. so as not to affect its hardness.
 
mbasko said:
When my needs doing I just very lightly grind it with a 4" angle grinder being careful not to get the pick too hot.
If you're worried about it getting too hot you could put a bucket of water nearby & periodically dip the pick to keep it cool.
Good advice.
 
Should have said above too but use the Stainless Steel rated grinding discs (they also do high carbon steel, tool steel etc.) or a multipurpose disc that includes those surfaces if you go that way.
If using a flap disc use Zirconia flap discs not Aluminium Oxide. :Y:
 
Thanks guys. That's one of my jobs for next weekend now, after a trip to Bunnings :Y:
 
Deepseeker,
Still have my favourite pick of old, made from a car spring years back, hard faced the faces and point and then ground them. Before each season, would run a couple of beads across the face & point and grind it sharp. (Same advice as Mbasko except I use old sump oil.)
 
Hardfaced mine took nightjar. Problem is I cant remember what I used. I know I used stellite on one but that didnt hold up as well as the other which I cant remember.
 
Well, I hadn't thought of that. It's one of Blue Jeans Ronny's picks, which I think from memory he once said was made from a leaf spring off of a Scania truck or something similar. I'm sure it was Ronnie who said in a post once that you should never sharpen the pick, but honestly I can't see how it can go on being effective season after season, year after year, if it doesn't have a keen edge put back on it once in a while?

I've still got a little arc welder, so I guess if over the next few years it wears/grinds down too much I'll buy some hardfacing rods and build it up again. Thanks for the tips guys
 
I am with mbasko deepseeker ,use water to keep it cool ,most of the old spring's were made of water hardened steel , unless you have a test piece to play around with i would stick with water to keep it cool if you get it hot, i would give it about 2 or 3 firm passes then dip in the water for a second or 2 to keep it cool
The best way to test the hardness when finished sharpening is to run a file over it ,the file should skid on it not bite into easily
 
Hi nightjar ,when i am having a play in the smithy, i like to use mineral white oil for a quench, if i am going to kill myself with toxic fumes i like them to smell nice :lol:

Dipping the old spring in oil mate ,you are more than likely doing yourself a favour for your pick if it is water hardened ,as the oil will keep the hard face hard but it will soften the steel directly behind the hard face which creates a inertia point that would help the spring from snapping off at the hard facing, the same as sharpening a pick in the forge you only harden and temper the first 2- 3 inches of the pick point
 
Deepseeker said:
Well, I hadn't thought of that. It's one of Blue Jeans Ronny's picks, which I think from memory he once said was made from a leaf spring off of a Scania truck or something similar. I'm sure it was Ronnie who said in a post once that you should never sharpen the pick, but honestly I can't see how it can go on being effective season after season, year after year, if it doesn't have a keen edge put back on it once in a while?

I've still got a little arc welder, so I guess if over the next few years it wears/grinds down too much I'll buy some hardfacing rods and build it up again. Thanks for the tips guys
Hi Deepseeker, That is one of my pick, Like i sed in a earlier post i find sharpen to a cold chisel point for best wear, the point on the other end is for digging the blade is for scraping the loose dirt out, they are made from landcruser spring if you over heat berry in sand and let cool slowly ag lime is the best to cool in slows to about 40 per sent slower cooling, Ron.
 
Thanks Ron. And it's a cracker of a pick too! It's taken a lot of abuse to get it to that state :) :Y:
 

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