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Dignit

Dignit

Joined
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Hi all
Ive got a 30mm crack in the roof corner plastic moulding of my Jayco Swift camper trailer.
First of all does anyone know what sort of plastic the moulding would be made of?
Secondly what do you suggest I should fill it with?
Im thinking I should drill a small hole at the inner end of the crack to prevent further propagation and then fill/adhere it.
Hopefully some of you smart people out there will know.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers
 
I used a sealicon...I have a tube of it in the shed

I will fish it out and find out the name of it for you tomorrow

Goody
 
Thanks all. :Y:
Ill look in to all these.
Ive sent Jayco an email to see if they will provide some advice.
Goody, I think it will need something stronger than a silicon, so you dont need to fish it out. But thanks for the offer, appreciate it.
Im now thinking its likely to be ABS.
The Rapidfix, or Bondic may suit. Ill also research plastic welding.
 
Is it possible the fastener latch is pulling down too hard on that corner ? is it adjustable ?

Plastic welding is a good option but go to an expert , many car smash repairers do it every day and have the expensive toys to do it properly as they do repairs on car bumpers.

Is there room on the inside to add a reinforcing patch or is it a tight mating fit with the bottom half ?

If you have 3 mm of room there i would hammer form a 2.5 or 3 mm aluminium sheet to be an exact match to the shape and bond it on the inside with a super high strength aerospace / truck body adhesive , its compound curvature on the corner so you cant just bend a flat sheet in one direction.

Years ago Sikaflex was the bees knees but those days are gone in the dark ages with Fred Flinstone , these days we have new chemical super adhesives which you will never remove once its bonded on there.

Rapidstick 8-300
http://www.chemtools.com.au/product...hesives/rapidstick-8-300-structural-adhesive/

Bostik Simmos 70-05 ( bit cheaper than the above )
https://www.bostik.com/newzealand/bostik-products/Simson_ISR_70-05_SMP

I am not sure who you could get to form the aluminium patch , its easy bread and butter work for me but you're too far away.
 
Booney said:
Not the new Jayco Dignit !
how did this happen ?
You might want to think about strengthen the area with some sort of plastic or metal corner protection molding and be thinking about all the other corners as well.
Click to expand...
Hi Booney
No idea how it happened.
Would have been there when I bought it. Just missed it during the inspection.
Cheers
 
CreviceSucker said:
Is it possible the fastener latch is pulling down too hard on that corner ? is it adjustable ?

Plastic welding is a good option but go to an expert , many car smash repairers do it every day and have the expensive toys to do it properly as they do repairs on car bumpers.

Is there room on the inside to add a reinforcing patch or is it a tight mating fit with the bottom half ?

If you have 3 mm of room there i would hammer form a 2.5 or 3 mm aluminium sheet to be an exact match to the shape and bond it on the inside with a super high strength aerospace / truck body adhesive , its compound curvature on the corner so you cant just bend a flat sheet in one direction.

Years ago Sikaflex was the bees knees but those days are gone in the dark ages with Fred Flinstone , these days we have new chemical super adhesives which you will never remove once its bonded on there.

Rapidstick 8-300
http://www.chemtools.com.au/product...hesives/rapidstick-8-300-structural-adhesive/

Bostik Simmos 70-05 ( bit cheaper than the above )
https://www.bostik.com/newzealand/bostik-products/Simson_ISR_70-05_SMP

I am not sure who you could get to form the aluminium patch , its easy bread and butter work for me but you're too far away.
Click to expand...

CS
I dont think the latch is pulling down too hard, but Ill take a closer look. It is adjustable.
I think there is room for a patch on the inside.
I watched a YouTube video tonight on plastic welding. Bunnings have a Tradeflame plastic welding kit which comes with stainless steel fine mesh patches that you can mould to shape, and comes with various plastics in both black and white. If I can get to it from the inside this may be a good way to go which I should be able to do myself.
Thanks for your tips.
Ive had a look at the adhesive links you provided.
Thanks and cheers :Y:
 
If Jayco can't / won't help then try using some REDUX 460 as used in Commercial Aircraft, It dries Very Hard and is Clear/White in Colour,

Get a Dremel Tool and grind the egdes of the Crack into a "V" Shape so what ever you put in there has more surface area just like you do when you Bevel the Edge of 2 Steel plate when you Weld them together,

Once you have done that go to a local metal Fab Shop and get some Flat 25mm X 2mm / 1 Inch X 1/8th inch thick and make up 4 Corner 90* Plates / Brackets for each Corner of the roof BUY enough to make 4 Angle plates being 200mm to 250mm each So you will need about a Metre of it and use Stainless Nuts and Bolts to fix them to the corners and give them a squirt of silicon between the Roof and the Plates before you bolt them In Place, Drill the holes about 30mm +/- from each end of the bracket,

The reason I say make 4 of them is because If it has Cracked there it will also go on the other corners through Vibration and the Plates will stop that from happening, Ok, :Y:

Hope that helps.

J.
 
This unfortunately has been a common problem with Jayco campers.

It has been discussed endlessly on numerous Jayco/Caravanning forums.

Here's a link to the results of a Google search on the subject:

https://www.google.com/search?q=jay...rome..69i57.6628j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

There's also a Jayco Owners Facebook group......as a recent Jayco owner I'd love to have a look at it, but it's a closed group and requires joining Facebook....something to which I have a deep aversion :) I'm pretty sure you'd find quite a bit of talk about the problem on that Group.

I took delivery of a new Swift Outback in February this year......but being in good 'ol Lockdown Victoria, it's been out of the shed once so far.....now sitting in the garage all packed and ready to go (anywhere), but 52mm of rain has put a damper on that for a few days.

Keep an eye on the operation of your roof lift system as well.....that is another known problem with earlier Jaycos and was the subject of a Compulsory Recall only a few years back.

Good luck with it.
 
PVC Pipe cement the green stuff is bloody great for that.
Be prepared. When it bonds, It bonds almost instantly.
Yes, Drill a small hole in the end of the crack to stop it going furthr.

I would then cut a peice of pipe then mould it with a bit of heat and stick it behind the crack.

Finally, some white touch up paint to hide the glue.
 
Drilling a whole is a smart idea :Y: as for filling and bonding check out Selleys Knead It available at almost every hardware store. Suitable for nearly every material and purpose, once hard it can be sanded and painted. Similar to body filler (bog) but has a wide variety of applications like sealing a leaking fuel tank, jerry cans and more. There's more than one product type but here's a link to the multi purpose product.

https://www.selleys.com.au/products/adhesives/minor-repairs/selleys-knead-it-multipurpose
 
Find a product called metal mend, its a poly filler with stainless fibres in it, thats the best stuff in auto industry we use, wise move drilling holes I would do both ends of the crack, grind a bit out of crack, fill with metal mend, grind back then finish off with normal auto filler , undercoat sand and paint, use automotive grade stuff and all will go smooth. Or for a real quick fix use white automotive grade sikaflex will fix it for good.
 
Using just a filler wont work because there is no thickness in the material being repaired and without some form of bracing it will crack again on one side of the filler or the other,

Another way to beef it up is to drill a hole at the end of the crack and grove out the crack then fill it and then Stick a Carbon fibre strip across it with a good epoxy and then tidy it up and paint it, But it does need to be braced across the crack or it just won't work.
 

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