Finished stone damaged when removing from dop

Prospecting Australia

Help Support Prospecting Australia:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 5, 2017
Messages
155
Reaction score
235
Hi all,

I just removed a finished bit of topaz that was epoxyed onto the dop.

I heated the dop & used a bit of wet cloth around the stone to get it off.

The stone was still covered in epoxy so I dropped it into a jar of acetone, taking it out every hour or so to scrape the epoxy (which was stuck pretty hard) with my finger nail.

When I finally got it off I found a small chip just under the girdle. I guess this could have happened when I dropped the stone into the jar, but I'm not certain.

I thought afterwards that I probably should have put the dop & stone into the epoxy & left it over night instead of getting over excited about seeing how it turned out.

The epoxy I used was JB Were Kwik.

How do other remove stones that are stuck hard without damage? What did I most likely do wrong.

Best regards & thanks

Bullwinkle
 
I concentrate the heat on the dop and epoxy, lay a piece of folded tissue on the bench holding one end of the dop let the stone rest on the bench fold up one end of the tissue to protect from heat and pop the stone out with fingernail, the stone is hot quickly run around it with your fingernail and scrape off any remaining epoxy, sometimes the stone comes out clean, depends on how much heat. When cool I lower the stone into metho over night most times. Do not drop into glass jar this is enough to chip the stone.

I have chipped a stone dropping from a height of 2" onto a plastic pod lid, that was enough to chip the girdle. I am using Dextone Epoxy.

PS I would not shock the stone with water (re the wet Rag)

Cheers Prooz.
 
Prooz said:
I concentrate the heat on the dop and epoxy, lay a piece of folded tissue on the bench holding one end of the dop let the stone rest on the bench fold up one end of the tissue to protect from heat and pop the stone out with fingernail, the stone is hot quickly run around it with your fingernail and scrape off any remaining epoxy, sometimes the stone comes out clean, depends on how much heat. When cool I lower the stone into metho over night most times. Do not drop into glass jar this is enough to chip the stone.

I have chipped a stone dropping from a height of 2" onto a plastic pod lid, that was enough to chip the girdle. I am using Dextone Epoxy.

PS I would not shock the stone with water (re the wet Rag)

Cheers Prooz.

Thanks Prooz, I will give it a go. I suspect that I chipped the stone dropping it into the jar then.
Best regards
Bullwinkle
 
"JB Were Kwik"- really powerful stuff Bullwinkle, the hotter the glue gets the harder the grip gets. I only use Loctite "Precision" super glue, a small dot in or on a dop, allow to set for an hour or two, bond over with Tite-on or a similar two part.
To remove, warm the dop in a gas flame (cigarette lighter) with a piece of wet chamois to grip the stone, remove the heat, wait 30 seconds and pass the flame along the dop again to heat the bond in the dop, give the stone a small twist to see if it moves, if it doesn't give a bit more heat along the dop until it moves. The stone should clear from the dop and leave any dopping mix behind. If you need to clean a stone do so with a debonder that can be obtained from a shop that sells ZAP used on the model planes and boats and cars, otherwise nail polish remover or acetone does a useful job of sorts. Keep that Zap away from the olfactory organ. :| A bladed knife as in a box cutter is very handy for scraping the glue off if needs be.
 
Pat Hogen said:
"JB Were Kwik"- really powerful stuff Bullwinkle, the hotter the glue gets the harder the grip gets. I only use Loctite "Precision" super glue, a small dot in or on a dop, allow to set for an hour or two, bond over with Tite-on or a similar two part.
To remove, warm the dop in a gas flame (cigarette lighter) with a piece of wet chamois to grip the stone, remove the heat, wait 30 seconds and pass the flame along the dop again to heat the bond in the dop, give the stone a small twist to see if it moves, if it doesn't give a bit more heat along the dop until it moves. The stone should clear from the dop and leave any dopping mix behind. If you need to clean a stone do so with a debonder that can be obtained from a shop that sells ZAP used on the model planes and boats and cars, otherwise nail polish remover or acetone does a useful job of sorts. Keep that Zap away from the olfactory organ. :| A bladed knife as in a box cutter is very handy for scraping the glue off if needs be.

Thanks Pat,
When you "bond over with Tite-on" do you mean that you add this to the super glue once it sets?
Regards
Bullwinkle
 
I think we have all had this happen at some stage Bullwinkle, Topaz which has perfect fracture planes, is prone to it, even stones splitting when cutting.

I use JB Kwik, but sometimes soak it for several days in Acetone. Small jar with a hole in the lid just big enough to hold the Dop, but of Bluetack to seal and hold the stone off the bottom. A gentle twist usually gets the stone off or it goes back for more soaking.

Used to use Tite-on but no longer available unfortunately.
 
Dihusky said:
I think we have all had this happen at some stage Bullwinkle, Topaz which has perfect fracture planes, is prone to it, even stones splitting when cutting.

I use JB Kwik, but sometimes soak it for several days in Acetone. Small jar with a hole in the lid just big enough to hold the Dop, but of Bluetack to seal and hold the stone off the bottom. A gentle twist usually gets the stone off or it goes back for more soaking.

Used to use Tite-on but no longer available unfortunately.

Thank Dihusky, great advice!
 

Latest posts

Top