Kings 60lt big dissapointment

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We purchased a kings 60lt fidge freezer and got it running with 30 cans in it and 2 x 2lt milk bottles full of water in it. We ran it set on 4 deg for 24 hrs then I put a minimum maximum temp gauge in the middle of fridge amongst the items and left for an hour to get thermometer down to fridge temp. Then reset temp gauge and left for 24 hrs to see how much temp variation there was.
Kings told me before we purchased the fridge that there would be maximum of 3 degrees difference between top and bottom temp.
Well, after 24 hrs we looked at the results and was gob smacked. Minimum was -3 deg and max was +10 deg.
I reset and tried again for next 24 hr period thinking I had stuffed up setting thermometer, and the results were -3 deg to + 11 deg.
The result of phone calls and lots of emails is the fridge has been packed and they are refunding my money and having a courier picking it up.
Not a good outcome.
I would be interested if anybody has done this same test on there fridges, whatever they have to see the temp variation.
 
Sometimes its better to pay a bit more for a tried and trusted brand.
Kings turn over 380 million dollars a year that's a lot of land fill.
I've had most fridges over the years and always end up back with an Engel.
There are better fridges out there but value for money they are hard to match.
I also run a bushman upright 85 liter in my Ute back and love it. They seem the rage at the moment.

GT :money:
 
With a chest fridge, especially fitted in a vehicle, there will always be some temperature variations. Usually top to bottom and after the lid has been opened.

It also depends on where the cooling plates are. i.e. the Engel I have, they are around the sides of the wall except for about 40% of the wall near the hinge as that is where they start and stop. I would expect that once the fridge has stabilised it's set temp to note a little difference between the outer sides and the top and bottom.

That difference in mine is minimal as I have moved the wireless sensor around the fridge on a few occasions, the difference being less than 2 C.

The other main factor is the insulation efficiency, which is also helped by the outer insulated cover. For my money, anyone fitting a fridge in a vehicle should definitely fit a cover a. to help efficiency and b. It protects your investment from dents n scratches.

At the end of the day, "You get What you pay for". Yes, fridges like Kings, Brass Monkey or "Ebay" brands will be 1/3 to 1/2 of what you pay for an Engel (or similar). But, when you buy a fridge, you want it to do the job, get a reasonable life span without breakdown and with minimal power consumption.

It's a bit like Honda/Yamaha generators v cheapies, they all produce power. The question here is "for how long they work, how much fuel you use, how noisy are they etc. The same logic applies, you pay for quality. :)
 
travelergold said:
We purchased a kings 60lt fidge freezer and got it running with 30 cans in it and 2 x 2lt milk bottles full of water in it. We ran it set on 4 deg for 24 hrs then I put a minimum maximum temp gauge in the middle of fridge amongst the items and left for an hour to get thermometer down to fridge temp. Then reset temp gauge and left for 24 hrs to see how much temp variation there was.
Kings told me before we purchased the fridge that there would be maximum of 3 degrees difference between top and bottom temp.
Well, after 24 hrs we looked at the results and was gob smacked. Minimum was -3 deg and max was +10 deg.
I reset and tried again for next 24 hr period thinking I had stuffed up setting thermometer, and the results were -3 deg to + 11 deg.
The result of phone calls and lots of emails is the fridge has been packed and they are refunding my money and having a courier picking it up.
Not a good outcome.
I would be interested if anybody has done this same test on there fridges, whatever they have to see the temp variation.

I have tested every fridge and electric cooler I have owned, At present I have 4 fridges and 3 coolers but I have owned a few more,

Some fridges don't have the cooling element coming right to the top of the Box and they come up to within 2 or 3 inches from the top which is a great feature because It allows things that need to be kept really cold in the bottom and things that need to be kept around 2 - 5*c in the Top and in the Dairy area can be 5 to 8*c warmer than the set area,

Your figures seem to match the temps of what Domestic Fridges achieve, One thing to remember is don't expect to cool the fridge down and fill it with room Temp Beer or water straight from the Tap because your Tap water in Aus is going to be around 15 to 30*c and any fridge regardless of the brand will struggle to cool it down even in 24 hours,

At the bottom it can read 2 or 3* lower than what the setting reads some times more because that all depends on the cooling power of the fridge, This Is Normal and during it's off cycle as it gets close to turning on again the Temp in the top can rise as much as 4 or 5*c above what you have it set At, This too is normal,

The Brand is a minor issue, Where the real problem lies is when you try and compare it to another fridge you have owned, You just Can't Do That unless it is the same make and model as you have had previous,

IE, My ARB 47L does behave like my ARB 78L even though the 78L has the Bigger BD-50F Compressor because the Compressors are matched to suit the Size of the Box,

YET, My Snomaster 35L has a smaller Box yet it has a bigger Compressor that is almost as big as the BD-50F that is in the ARB 78L, yet the S/M 35L even though it has a small box and only cycles for 4m 40s and shuts off for 50mins sucks heaps more power than the ARB's even though the ARB's can run for anything from 10 to 20 minutes it will shut off for anything from 1 to 3 hours, and even when it runs for 15 minutes it still uses less power than the little Snomaster, I have seen the S/M 35L chew 99.8w while it is running yet they claim it is a 66w Compressor, I will test it on DC with a Watt Meter and see if it uses less/more,

ENTER the little Dometic CDF-18L, Power wise it uses a lot less than any other on the market and it Cools very fast and I have seen it go below -22*c and I have seen it use as little as 61w in 24 hours running on DC and a 101w running on AC in 24 hours,

Anyway sorry about the long winded reply, but as you can see No Brand behaves like any other unless you compare fridges that are the same brand, There might be a problem with your fridge there might not,

What you should do is pre Cool the Fridge and pre Cool the things you want to keep cool in the House fridge or freezer and then load the 12v fridge up and let it settle for 6/12 hours and then Test it's Temperature reading, You can't cool the fridge to say 3*c and put stuff in there that was cooled down to 1*c because the Temp drop of 2*c of the items you put in there will Delay the fridge from powering up which will then warm up the fridge in the Top area to about 5* warmer that what the fridge is set At,

If your fridge is set to -18*c and is 3 parts full and has been at the temp for a couple of days purring away and you top it up with non frozen gear it might run for 20 to 120min +/- and then it will cycle on and off until it gets back down to the correct temp again and each run time will get shorter and each off cycle will get longer until it gets back down to what it was doing before you added the new contents,

How a fridge runs depends on how you pack them and what you put in there, 4x4 Fridges are not like Gerry Cans where you just dump it in there and the job is done, Even Domestic Fridge freezers behave the same, Try shutting off the house fridge/freezer and defrosting it and loading it up to the top with New Unfrozen meats etc and it will take days for the Temps to balance out from top to bottom,

I think maybe you misunderstood the Hows and Whys of how your new fridge works,

Again Sorry for the long windedness of my post but there is a lot more to it than just powering it up and setting the Temp and brand loyalty etc.

But this is just the tip of the Ice berg,

Hope that helps,

J.
 
My 80ltr oz trail cools to 3 really quickly on a 100amp battery and stays very stable .
But I have a travel cover and it stays under cover in the ute.
Fluctuations of about 2 to 3 while cooling but once cold very stable.
Can't fault it yet.
 
110% as per RR above.

Unless you have fan circulation and space between items; then air temps and product temps will / can be quite varied.

Takes time for a nice sized thermal mass (hot can of drink) to cool and as cold air sinks, the top will always be warmer unless it is well insulated / fan forced and has been closed for a significant time.

And as a person that has spent 25 years playing with critical temps; don't get me started on meters and probe accuracy AND placement. Unless you using specialised measuring equipment the values are just a INDICATION :)

But for 99% of times and general use, an indication is more than good enough.
 
Ridgerunner, when we had the thermometer in there, everything had been i there for 24 hrs before we started taking readings. The readings were the same every 24 hrs after and we did it for 5 days with no change.
We purchased in hope of going detecting again but now health had suddenly turned for worse so detecting will be no more for us. they will fully refund which is good as no had no use for the fridge now.
 
travelergold said:
Ridgerunner, when we had the thermometer in there, everything had been i there for 24 hrs before we started taking readings. The readings were the same every 24 hrs after and we did it for 5 days with no change.
We purchased in hope of going detecting again but now health had suddenly turned for worse so detecting will be no more for us. they will fully refund which is good as no had no use for the fridge now.

Cool TG, then it does have a serious problem, Sounds like it has a Gas leak which is quite common even on high end models, Glad they are giving you a refund, That's good business sense Ay,

Hope you get back on your feet soon, :Y:
 
"Kings told me before we purchased the fridge that there would be maximum of 3 degrees difference between top and bottom temp."

... and the purchase was rightfully refunded. The question is then, why Kings did not offer a repair or replacement if the 13 degree top/bottom differential was abnormal?

Jon
 

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