Pinpointers Minelab Pro-Find (35) or Garrett Pro Pointer (AT)

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Joined
Jul 27, 2019
Messages
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Location
East Lake Macquarie, NSW
Ok guys,
I'm after advice again. Although I've stuck to beach detecting so far which doesn't require pinpointer (finds are always in the scoop). I'll be hitting soil areas before long so will be needing a pin pointer.

following advice from this site I settled on the MineLab Nox 600 as my detector and although i'm still very novice at adjusting the settings i'm really pleased with my purchase (sadly I couldn't stretch to the 800 ).

I'll be hunting for coins and jewelry mostly (probably around sports parks ) but would also like the option for a rare distance trip to perhaps find a nugget ( appreciate that i'm under gunned for serious hunting but neve say never hey ;) )

Being please with the Nox, i'm leaning towards the Pro_find 35 however I actually prefer the design of the Pro Pointer and have read a couple of un flattering reviews of the Minelab.
I've only the money to buy one once (and may even try for a 2nd hand unit) so hoping those with experience might be able to state why they would choose one over the other.

hopefully i'm not starting a brand ware here but you have put me on the right path before.
Thanks
Steve
p.s. I am open to an alternative brand if ive missed something brilliant in the price range of around $200
 
I have been through about 5 PF35's and have now due to the theft of a trusty PF25 left with using the PF35 as my only ML pinpointer.

Would not trust it at all in water as every one I have used and or had a close look at has split at the endcap. Once they get that sorted it may go in my every day use box, but for the moment the PF35 only sits with my gold chasing gear.

Need to get hold of a new Notka unit for the beach and see how it goes Vs the Deteknix.
 
Funny you should say that AM. I searched for ages in my usual Aspy way, reading as much as I could about the various pinpointers on offer. I narrowed it down to the Garrett Carrot and the PF-35. If I had have bought an SDC and was able to hunt in rivers and streams also, then I would have gone the Garrett. Apparently their little light feature is actually useful, unlike the PF-35 which might as well not be there for how useless it's light emitting ability is in a hole. However, having bought a GPX 5000, what sealed it for me was that I read a few reviews where people said that the Garrett interfered with their Minelab PI detector, whereas for obvious reasons the Minelab PF-35 doesn't. If I was into Crevicing though I think I'd go a Garrett for its apparent superior waterproof feature.
 
AngerManagement said:
I have been through about 5 PF35's and have now due to the theft of a trusty PF25 left with using the PF35 as my only ML pinpointer.

Would not trust it at all in water as every one I have used and or had a close look at has split at the endcap. Once they get that sorted it may go in my every day use box, but for the moment the PF35 only sits with my gold chasing gear.

Need to get hold of a new Notka unit for the beach and see how it goes Vs the Deteknix.
WOW you went through about 5 pf.35s :8 :8...Remind me not to buy any of your gear :lol: :lol: .Yes the cap is really tight to undo.
I put a bit of vaso on the thread ..problem fixed.
Mines under water all the time no issues yet. :Y:
 
Smoky FYI 2 replacement units were cracked out of the box at time of hand over.

another unit had a very poor speaker and two would false and sound with a bit of a shake and just miss behave. Have sorted the misbehaving as due to bad solder joint.

I use a lube and never do up hard - firm at the best.

There is a problem with the moulding and where the mould is recessed. The backend needs to be made thicker and the problem will go away.
 
Deepseeker - had to repair a couple of the newer Garrett AT Pros and when testing alongside the PF35; my experience was that the PF35 was much better at picking up small gold than the garrett.

However like many things, variables and often there are differences between units of the same model.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. though slightly (only slightly) disappointed to see todays update about the endcap after getting home with my new 35 !!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
As it goes, I fell on one just up the road on gumtree, he told me that the original one had had a crack down the thread due to the cap being tight and them being susceptible if over tightened. Minelab replaced and its sat on his shelf since, he warned me not to over tighten it.
All in, i'm still chuffed with the purchase at $120 and don't plan on using it under water (i'll only be wading not diving and that's why I've got a sand scoop) so may just put a little PTFE tape round the thread to help when it get muddy or a wash it (with care).

Thanks again. :Y:
Steve
 
Pieces-Of-Eight said:
Thanks for all the advice guys. though slightly (only slightly) disappointed to see todays update about the endcap after getting home with my new 35 !!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
As it goes, I fell on one just up the road on gumtree, he told me that the original one had had a crack down the thread due to the cap being tight and them being susceptible if over tightened. Minelab replaced and its sat on his shelf since, he warned me not to over tighten it.
All in, i'm still chuffed with the purchase at $120 and don't plan on using it under water (i'll only be wading not diving and that's why I've got a sand scoop) so may just put a little PTFE tape round the thread to help when it get muddy or a wash it (with care).

Thanks again. :Y:
Steve

Firm and do not tighten up fully - The oring seals on the internal surfaces and puts extra outward pressure on the casing. Other systems the oring seals on the end surfaces and thus you need to tighten firmly.

Do not add PTFE tape as that will just add extra to the thread and will add to extra forces that will assist with any fracturing.

The casing is thin and under stress, thus hard knocks may also cause teh casing to let go.

Later batches may have a better casing but I am yet to see any.

Take care.
 
FYI

1: If you are dry land hunting and subject to the odd rain shower and or need to wash some dirt / mud off; then it should not be a problem

2: If you wading and using the pinpointer under water; then depending on the exact nature of the split/s you may be OK for a little while. But do not trust it.

3: I would not use for any snorkeling or scuba without taking extra care prior to surmerging the unit - For me I will be using the Deteknix until I can get my hands on one of the newer Notka Pro dive kits.

My PF35 is my raw gold / bush pinpointer. My trusty PF25 was subject to a light fingered person at a MD Club open day ( NOT HAPPY JAN). The PF25 was my QC standard and all my testing and comparisons were always referenced back to the PF25 - BUT they are no longer available and I feel lost without it LOL. The PF25 was an old friend and I alas I knew him well.

I have looked at about 15 PF35 /PF15 units and all but 4 showed signs of splitting AND one of those is in my box of tricks (I have changed to a slightly smaller o-ring ) and is my bush pinpointer as stated above.

NOTE 1: The fractures can be slight to quite significant depending on any number of factors BUT you will need a good light and some careful inspection to actually see the early stages of a fracture (unless they are big).

In short you can do a test and check for water ingress BUT that is best done after removing the internals. Fresh water can be a pita but getting saltwater in on the cct board is never going to end well. The yellow rubber outer sleeve helps to seal from any light rain or water, but when the unit is submerged it just delays / slows down the ingress of water. Thus shallow or light exposure to water may not result in any problems. But over time and or depth it only needs a little to get in and you in trouble.

Simple test without stripping the unit is simple enough.

A: Obtain a good strong light and ideally a magy lamp.

B: Remove the end cap and the battery

C: Closely inspect the smooth surfaces and take special note at the area at the ends of the two sections of thread. You may notice some mold lines. I have seen these open up. INSPECT closely and use your finger or finger nail to inspect any imperfections or what may appear as other mould lines. Be aware that any flex or squeezing can make it easier to see/feel. But you do not want to make things worse; so take care as the casing is quite brittle.

NOTE 1: I also have a P15 where the fracture in right in the middle of the thread - see pic below.

NOTE 2: The early Detexnix also suffered from fractures in this area and it took a few examples to be sent back to the manufacturer b4 they introduced a change to their casings.

With any luck a couple of pics of a PF15 and a couple of PF35s may assist.

On one unit - not mine: we pulled back the outer covering and yes you can see what we thought was a small fracture LOL.

1: A nice clean crack in the centre of the thread PF15

1570189182_2019-10-04_21.16.22_medium.jpg


2: Old and new style Deteknix diver units - Notice the o-ring seal location and the extra body size in the revised casing

1570189182_2019-10-04_21.17.39_medium.jpg


3: A med fracture in one of my PF35's that was replaced by ML and if you zoom in you can see it through the thread.

1570189182_resized_20190327_161624_1549.jpg


4: A PF35 that we had to strip and see just how far the fracture went - oops was not as small as we thought once we did the end cap up firm.

1570189182_resized_20190330_141449_5077.jpg
 
Item number 3 was replaced on the spot, as that is how it was out of the box at the shop.

MinerDen well aware as is the ML rep.

Miss treated NOT.
 
So just got the 35 and had a hell of a time trying to unscrew it, then it gave when I thought I'll give it one more go then back to the shop with it.

Put the battery in to have a play and put it aside for two days. I just read this thread and saw it is an issue. I tried to unscrew it again to put some lube on and the bastard is stuck again. I never lubed it the first time as I couldn't find any lube. I thought it would be okay for a few days as I never tightened it too hard.

Shonky issue with this product and obviously no quality control if many are having this problem. Someone said a while back Minelab is only interested in profit now. They may be correct. Poor on Minelab's part when the price is so high for what is basically 5 cents worth of plastic and a mass-produced PC that would be cheap as well and a light that is absolutely useless.
 

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