Playing with New Fridges.

I have the very early Waeco CF60 analogue fridge i bought new for $800. Crrappy lids etc but in the early days it was a bluddy efficient fridge. Over the years the thermistor was slowly crapping itself to the point its current draw was just way too much. I bought a digital controller off Ebay for $5, wired it up instead of the thermistor and wow what a difference! Minute adjustment instead of the too warm 3 lights or too cold 4 lights. I then replaced the .8A 100mm fan with two .08A 120mm fans, one pushing the other pulling. It is now a very efficient fridge with minimal draw.

I bought off Facebook marketplace an immaculate digital CF50 with cover with a faulty control board at the top of the fridge for $150. Same mods and its a bluddy ripper.

I bought a CF40 with the same problem as the last for $50 and fitted the same controller. This was going to travel in the back of the ute but its going to a friend who has given me help while i was getting over a broken foot.

Look, I understand these Waecos arent up there with the best but you can buy and mod them to be a very cheap and efficient fridge.

My mate has an Evakool fridge... 4yo and the compressor died after lots of abuse... Rang Evakool about repairing and then delivered it to their door.... A new compressor was fitted and when my mate returned to pick it up they only charged him $85 for labour..... Compressor was free to a valued customer they told him....
A good local company that uses as many aussie parts as possible...

IMO you won't get that service from any other Fridge brand out there...

LW...

I have only one complaint re the Engel. No, not the one I have, the new ones. The lid of my fridge is the type where the hinge is actually slotted and outside the edges. It allows the lid to be removed. The newer models have a captive hinge and the lid does not separate.

So, why do I dislike this? Well like many that have it fitted in a 4x4, I have a drawer system that is fitted in the rear of the 4x4 wagon. The left hand half top is also the fridge slide. So by the time the Engel sits on top of the drawers and the slide fully extended, the lid will not open fully. So it needs holding up with one hand, while the other tries to load or unload what's in it and can sometimes be awkward. What I can do is remove the lid and then use both hands to sort contents.

My fridge is a 30lt and if I were to replace it, I would definitely look to the 40lt Combi Fridge/Freezer which is several inches higher again. Although it would still fit and be accessible, that is only because I'm 6' tall. The Combi would suit my use and be a better option than powering 2 fridges to use one as a fridge and the other a freezer.

I run my Engel at 1-2C wherever I can, so if I'm shopping on a hot day it will keep the Frozos ok for an hour or two, to get back to the caravan freezer. But I detect in winter, so not a problem

Thankfully the switch fix has removed the need to replace it, lol.

I am in the middle of doing a 3 way X2 Test with the ARB 47L and the SnoMaster CL 35L on 240v Running Both at 2*c and then -10/-12*c for 24 hours and then running each one On 12v, Also I have already Run and a 29L Thermoelectric Petlier Type Cooler on 12v using one of those Kickass Type Meters and then I will Run the Cooler on 240v hooked up to a 240v Power meter.

We enjoy the benefit of running two Engels, more power draw but have over come that. Have a permanent 64W solar on cab of ute wired through a PWM to the 110AH Deepcycle under the tray. While out detecting a fold up 120W (wired in series) is plugged in via Anderson plug and wired through a MPPT controller to same battery.
The Olde Yella holds meat for a fortnight and is then turned off and the Combo and caravan fridge keeps us fed for another 3 weeks.
If you want Engel service here in the West visit uncle Graham (not my uncle) at Midland Engel, first class professional help.

Nightjar said:

We enjoy the benefit of running two Engels, more power draw but have over come that. Have a permanent 64W solar on cab of ute wired through a PWM to the 110AH Deepcycle under the tray. While out detecting a fold up 120W (wired in series) is plugged in via Anderson plug and wired through a MPPT controller to same battery.
The Olde Yella holds meat for a fortnight and is then turned off and the Combo and caravan fridge keeps us fed for another 3 weeks.
If you want Engel service here in the West visit uncle Graham (not my uncle) at Midland Engel, first class professional help.

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Sounds Good NJ, and is the 120w enough to keep the Caravan topped up ?? And how big is the Combo, ??

I am going to add an MT-45 to the Fleet next, I won't be happy til I get one then I can do a Power test on it so I can compare 3 of the Top Sellers,

J.

RR Be interested to see the results. I tested my Engel twice, once on a 20C day and again on a 40C day. These were my setup and results.

Battery = 100AH AGM, location = rear of 4x4. Engel was precooled on 240VAC to 2C and loaded 2/3 full with precooled plastic milk containers full of water. The fridge draws approx 3.0amps when running.

On the 20C day it ran for 24 hours and used 25AH, so it cycles on roughly 20min every hour at an average of close to 1AH.

On the 40C day, the same setup as above. Test started at 0800, when I checked the battery monitor at 1600 it had used 25AH. So it was running pretty well constantly. I stopped the test at that point as I did not want to draw any more from the battery. I might add that even with the door windows cracked a 1/2" it was 50+C in the car.

I currently charge my Aux via a Redarc DC to DC and constantly need to monitor the battery. I do have a portable solar panel I can deploy, but reluctant in some areas to do so, I don't want it stolen. Before my next trip, I'm looking to install a 100W panel on the roof rack for permanent connection.

Nightjar, I hear you and it's great you can have 2 Engels. Unfortunately I just don't have space in my SUV style 4by for 2 fridges. I have a 12V oven in the only location I might fit one and I like my hot pies etc for lunch when I'm out in the cold It'll do leftovers, mini pizzas and although not yet tried, even Damper.

condor22 said:

I might add that even with the door windows cracked a 1/2" it was 50+C in the car.

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i have cut up a shiny sheild thingy and made window blockers , we went to Bourke the other day and at 32deg they/it made a big difference , the downside is the added blind spots around you

They make a massive difference ctx.... I used Air-con lagging called thermo-block IIRC...

LW....

Ridge Runner said:

Sounds Good NJ, and is the 120w enough to keep the Caravan topped up ?? And how big is the Combo, ??

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60L combo RR, The caravan has a 2 panel separate set up, 200W solar through a MPPT to two 110AH deepcycles. The TV and lights are the only draw.
When on the road van and ute batteries are charged with alternator. (The van fridge when running 12V draws a massive 14amps so we swap to gas as soon as we stop.)
When parked up the van fridge freezer runs on gas, a 9kg bottle lasts 3 weeks. We only use the gas stove in the mornings to brew a coffee, all other cooking is done out side on wood fire.

Don't bother doing any tests, just as long as the frozen goods are frozen, fridge food cool and beer chilled.

Yeh been looking at them myself. When your towing a full caravan, wing/extension mirrors are all you got, so blind spots don't matter anyway.

Cheapest ones available are Windscreen Sun shades from the likes of Supercheap Auto. You can glue 2 together and make thicker ones.. The Lagging I used is 15mm thick and was left over from a job , and very expensive...

LW....

Nightjar said:

Ridge Runner said:

Sounds Good NJ, and is the 120w enough to keep the Caravan topped up ?? And how big is the Combo, ??

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60L combo RR, The caravan has a 2 panel separate set up, 200W solar through a MPPT to two 110AH deepcycles. The TV and lights are the only draw.
When on the road van and ute batteries are charged with alternator. (The van fridge when running 12V draws a massive 14amps so we swap to gas as soon as we stop.)
When parked up the van fridge freezer runs on gas, a 9kg bottle lasts 3 weeks. We only use the gas stove in the mornings to brew a coffee, all other cooking is done out side on wood fire.

Don't bother doing any tests, just as long as the frozen goods are frozen, fridge food cool and beer chilled.

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Thanks NJ, I tried to buy the 60L Engel and all they had was the older 12v model stating that it had to be hard wired in to the vehicle which is the reason I didn't bother, because I want the 12v/240v model, But that was their excuse, I always thought that all Engels were 12v/240v.

Have you ever tested your Engel 60 to see what it's Draw is ?

I am going to buy 4 X 140w panels because I am not sure what the big ARB will draw plus I got 3 big batteries to keep topped up plus run basic Caravan gadgets,

I am about halfway through doing the testing So I might as well finish it off but it is taking a long time because I am doing both fridges on both on 12v and then 240v and at 2 different voltages but I know there is going to be a clear winner by a Country Mile, I won't be testing the 78L ARB because of the amount food and drink it can hold and I don't like shopping for food etc at the best of times let alone just to do a test, Plus it would cost me about 200 bucks to fill maybe more.

Ridge Runner said:

Thanks NJ, I tried to buy the 60L Engel and all they had was the older 12v model stating that it had to be hard wired in to the vehicle which is the reason I didn't bother, because I want the 12v/240v model, But that was their excuse, I always thought that all Engels were 12v/240v.

Have you ever tested your Engel 60 to see what it's Draw is ?

I am going to buy 4 X 140w panels because I am not sure what the big ARB will draw plus I got 3 big batteries to keep topped up plus run basic Caravan gadgets,

I am about halfway through doing the testing So I might as well finish it off but it is taking a long time because I am doing both fridges on both on 12v and then 240v and at 2 different voltages but I know there is going to be a clear winner by a Country Mile, I won't be testing the 78L ARB because of the amount food and drink it can hold and I don't like shopping for food etc at the best of times let alone just to do a test, Plus it would cost me about 200 bucks to fill maybe more.

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RR, Wouldn't have a clue what the 60L draws, have wireless thermometer read outs in the cab, the freezers run around -13 the fridges 3. If the temp rises I dial them down.
Firm believer in the KISS system.
Same with detecting, don't give a damn about how deep, how big, which coil goes deeper, air tests and all that b******t, if you walk over a target and dig it it's yours. Why worry yourself about what you MAY have left behind?
Some other lucky bugger will find it. :lol:

LoneWolf said:

Cheapest ones available are Windscreen Sun shades from the likes of Supercheap Auto. You can glue 2 together and make thicker ones.. The Lagging I used is 15mm thick and was left over from a job , and very expensive...

LW....

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You can shoot me down LW, but WHY waste money? layful:
We see it every day, windows blanked out with shades etc etc, if you're driving turn the dial down and your fridge will handle it?

When you park up, park in the shade.

True NJ, but I Installed them mainly to keep prying eyes out... Up here They see, then they smash to get What they see...
Besides I got the 1/2 a roll of lagging for Free... So no real cost...

LW....

LoneWolf said:

True NJ, but I Installed them mainly to keep prying eyes out... Up here They see, then they smash to get What they see... LW....

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the other exact reason i made mine

And NJ they make it easier on everything from personal comfort , less aircon (so less fuel) and don't have to flog the fridge so hard to keep temp erfect: winning in every way in my opinion erfect: :clap:

RR where are you mounting these 4 panels?

The solar I'm looking at mounting on my roof rack will either be an 80W or 100W. I'm going to mount it across the rear of the rack. The 80W sits inside the perimeter of the rack (sides) by about 15mm. I'd flush mount the edge of the panel with the rack at the back of the rack, but need angle brackets to bridge at the front. The 100W panel extends 37mm over the outer side edge of the roof rack, so it does not need bridging brackets. It would be fixed similar to the 80W at the rear, and need a small angle bracket at the front, or..... a bolt and locknut near the front through the panel frame and rack, depending on the panel frame configuration.

Pros n Cons - The 80W panel is only 25.4mm thick and weighs 5.4kg. The 100W panel is 35 thick and 7.7kg. So smaller is lighter, lower profile and within the rack envelope.

The deciding factor will, as it should be, the power output. The 80W = 3.85 Amps, the 100W = 5.72 Amps. (nominal)

As my Engel draws 3 amps when running the 80W will roughly keep up with it, but will probably not replace overnight use. As a simple guide, I believe that solar output Amps should be at least double load amps to do this. So a 160W panel would be better, but impractical as it is way to big for my setup. Given that the rack is high and the 100W panel is still well within vehicle width, this will be my choice. You'd need to be in excess of 7' tall to scone yourself

It will be a while before I do the job, but I'll post pics when I have.....

condor22 said:

RR where are you mounting these 4 panels?

The solar I'm looking at mounting on my roof rack will either be an 80W or 100W. I'm going to mount it across the rear of the rack. The 80W sits inside the perimeter of the rack (sides) by about 15mm. I'd flush mount the edge of the panel with the rack at the back of the rack, but need angle brackets to bridge at the front. The 100W panel extends 37mm over the outer side edge of the roof rack, so it does not need bridging brackets. It would be fixed similar to the 80W at the rear, and need a small angle bracket at the front, or..... a bolt and locknut near the front through the panel frame and rack, depending on the panel frame configuration.

Pros n Cons - The 80W panel is only 25.4mm thick and weighs 5.4kg. The 100W panel is 35 thick and 7.7kg. So smaller is lighter, lower profile and within the rack envelope.

The deciding factor will, as it should be, the power output. The 80W = 3.85 Amps, the 100W = 5.72 Amps. (nominal)

As my Engel draws 3 amps when running the 80W will roughly keep up with it, but will probably not replace overnight use. As a simple guide, I believe that solar output Amps should be at least double load amps to do this. So a 160W panel would be better, but impractical as it is way to big for my setup. Given that the rack is high and the 100W panel is still well within vehicle width, this will be my choice. You'd need to be in excess of 7' tall to scone yourself

It will be a while before I do the job, but I'll post pics when I have.....

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Well I found a Twin Axle Caravan I am thinking of buying So I can go detecting and Touring but I am also toying with the Idea of getting an RV/Camper so real estate up on the roof won't be a problem,

The bloke at the Solar Shop does most solar panels in two different sizes Some are square-ish some are broad and long and some are long and narrow So you can put narrow ones round the edge and Squarer ones across the ends and vice versa, If the space is really narrow then I would put 5 X 60w or 5 X 80w etc. Some times you just have to get IE one panel at 100w that measures 1190mm X 625mm and also buy another 100w panel that measures 900mm X 750mm or what ever the true sizes might be, Or a couple of 80w measuring 900 X 370mm Or 750mm X 550mm etc, as long as their wattage matches then all is well.

As for your Engel amps while running is not much at all, The ARB can draw a bit more than that but it can Run anywhere from 11 minutes up to 19 or 20 minutes "IF" you pack it Wrong and then it then shuts off for anything Up To and Over 2 hours, SO If it has run for 17 minutes It might of used a total of 1.1 Amps and then it might shut off for 1h 22m So that's 1.366 hours for a complete Duty Cycle, If you Take that 1.1 Amps Divide it by 1.366 hours equals 0.805Amps per hour,

Those are fairly normal every day type figures but in Temps of around 16*/17*c with it set to 4*c I have seen it use as little as 0.396 Ah +/-over a 23/24 hour period with a Total of 120w.

Now it is warmer I am running these tests on AC and DC and at 2*c and -12*c for bo the the ARB 47L and the Snomaster CL 35L, but the results so far are quite a shock,

I'm designing for worst case scenario. Hot day and warm night. So if Hot n Sunny the fridge will run most of the day @ 3.0 Amps.

Overnight I think it might be around 50% run, so 1.5 AH. Daylight saving, say allow 12 hours night run for 15-20 Amps.

So if the 100W produces close to its rating, it will run the fridge and the surplus will replace the previous nights use.

That's assuming I'm not driving, in which case the DC-DC will do the job.

I've found winter time fridge power demand not worst case