DPF's

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Anybody had any problems with blocked DPF's putting a vehicle into limp mode while out bush?

Trying to understand the law regarding deleting or emulating feed back from a DPF sensor to avoid limp mode occurring while out in the big back yard for safety's sake.

Thanks.
 
Mr Magoo said:
Anybody had any problems with blocked DPF's putting a vehicle into limp mode while out bush?

Trying to understand the law regarding deleting or emulating feed back from a DPF sensor to avoid limp mode occurring while out in the big back yard for safety's sake.

Thanks.

Yeah VW's are bugga for doing it and maybe some Jeeps,

RR.
 
ive read a couple of stories about Toyota Hilux & Prado having this problem, mostly from too much low engine revs & short drives not getting the system hot enough to initiate a regen burn. The standard recommendation is to ensure the vehicle gets a regular decent highway run. I believe a software fix has been developed to run a burn more often. Cant remember where I read it, but Mr Google can most likely help.
start with this CarAdvice story from July
https://www.caradvice.com.au/671488...iesel-particulate-filter-regeneration-switch/
 
There are a couple of really good additives that you pour in your tank when you fill up that work wonders with DPF.

RR.
 
I have a jeep with a dpf and besides using a bit extra fuel when it is doing a burn there has never been an issue.
My parents had a Pajero drop into limp in a remote place due to dpf and they were able to drive 400km to where a tow truck could pick up the car.
The Pajero blocked the dpf due to the wrong oil being used.

Anyone that drives a modern car needs to carry a scan tool and understand how to use it. The one I have cost $20 and $15 for the app to run it.
Using the cheap scan tool I was able to keep my petrol jeep running while out bush when a cam angle sensor died.
 
Any diesel motor now with a dpf (diesel particulate filter) will need long country drives so exhaust gets hot enough to enable a burn off. When dpf filter is buggered expect up to 10k to replace. (Can be 60.000km in the VW's) For a run around city car steer clear of diesel. Ring your RAA or equivalent and ask them.
We traded in a ford ranger px1 for a px2 and regret it. Round town non towing px1 got 7.2 to 8 litre per 100 and towing van worst was 13.6 litre per 100km. Px2 round town 12.6 to 14 litre per 100km and towing 19.6 best at 80kmph at normal like previous car with same van 22litre per 100km plus. Cannot do 400km on a tank of fuel. Ford cannot help me. Carrying 4 x 20lt jerry cans to do a WA trip sucks. Our ford dealer has now told us that the px2 used more fuel because the exhaust is more choked up than prevoius models. I have been talking to legal guys about this but class action is really needed.
 
The Nissan Navara is another problematic one.

@ Shep. That's the sort of story I was after. Carrying a scan tool is a good idea but if a DPF fault occurs I doubt the cheap tools will do little more than clear the code which may return straight away if a forced burn can not be performed. Although an ash blocked DPF is probably done for. No burn will fix that. :|
And yes, the wrong oil will wreck a DPF. It has to be a low ash oil.

I think, IIRC, during a burn the engine can use up to an extra 3L of fuel which is another reason consumption suffers so badly. It is making the diesel a poorer option. And once these vehicles get on in K's it becomes less viable to keep them on the road. Whose going to put a $4000 (cheap one) DPF in a 15 year old vehicle?

The reason I ask is we have a tremendous problem with DPF's blocking up because of no access to roads of over 50Kph so the DPF's engines never run a burn/regen and therefore the car goes into limp mode.
Just wondered if other parts of Oz have the same problem. Especially area'a of driving in the bush where higher speeds are impossible to achieve.
 
Hi Mr Magoo,

"The reason I ask is we have a tremendous problem with DPF's blocking up because of no access to roads of over 50Kph so the DPF's engines never run a burn/regen and therefore the car goes into limp mode."

Did you just try to use a lower gear so that the engine would run at a higher rpm to help the burn to happen? Just my thoughts.

Cheers

Doug
 
Rockhunter62 said:
Hi Mr Magoo,

"The reason I ask is we have a tremendous problem with DPF's blocking up because of no access to roads of over 50Kph so the DPF's engines never run a burn/regen and therefore the car goes into limp mode."

Did you just try to use a lower gear so that the engine would run at a higher rpm to help the burn to happen? Just my thoughts.

Cheers

Doug

That may work. I say 'may' as one bloke recons he can do it in his Navara using that approach but he also said the engine starts to overheat. He is the only one who claims to get it to work.
In saying that, the Navara's will carry out a burn when first arriving to the area (breaking speed limit required) but does become harder to achieve as time goes on. After approximately two years it will no longer carry out a burn.

Also tried that in a Suzuki Vitara, that had no affect apart from adding an 'over rev' code that became problematic to remove.

So opened minded about that. But skeptical. :D
 
DPF

Or

EGR ?

Had EGR issues in my 2013 BT50

As mentioned , a highly rated diesel additive is a must ...!
 
Some vehicles and trucks ive driven have a burn off display. And some you had the choice to have it on/off on the dash display.
Thus you could switch to manual burn off when suited.
Most ive seen let you burn whilst driving or at idol. Just dont ever turn off whilst in the burn process.
 
Trash said:
DPF

Or

EGR ?

Had EGR issues in my 2013 BT50

As mentioned , a highly rated diesel additive is a must ...!
Those egr's are probably the worst invention ever for pollution control.
Makes it run worse. Try running around with a bag over your head breathing in your old air repeatedly!
Have a workshop reprogram it
 
Mr Magoo said:
The Nissan Navara is another problematic one.

@ Shep. That's the sort of story I was after. Carrying a scan tool is a good idea but if a DPF fault occurs I doubt the cheap tools will do little more than clear the code which may return straight away if a forced burn can not be performed. Although an ash blocked DPF is probably done for. No burn will fix that. :|
And yes, the wrong oil will wreck a DPF. It has to be a low ash oil.

I think, IIRC, during a burn the engine can use up to an extra 3L of fuel which is another reason consumption suffers so badly. It is making the diesel a poorer option. And once these vehicles get on in K's it becomes less viable to keep them on the road. Whose going to put a $4000 (cheap one) DPF in a 15 year old vehicle?

The reason I ask is we have a tremendous problem with DPF's blocking up because of no access to roads of over 50Kph so the DPF's engines never run a burn/regen and therefore the car goes into limp mode.
Just wondered if other parts of Oz have the same problem. Especially area'a of driving in the bush where higher speeds are impossible to achieve.

if it is just used in the bush then i would look at removing the DPF. some makes are very easy to remove and reprogram.
my wagon apparently goes from 570nm at 2000rpm (stock with 8 speed gearbox so pulls like a truck) to over 700nm just
by deleting the DPF and turning off the EGR, sadly my wife wont let me hot rod the family car.
 
On some cars, ie VW they have to do freeway drive at road speed for 1 hr to do/complete burn. I have heard of DPF filters having to be replaced at under 60k, and they are not covered under warranty. Only some vehicles have a warning light or manual burn on them. Polution regs are stuffing us up.
 
Shep said:
Mr Magoo said:
The Nissan Navara is another problematic one.

@ Shep. That's the sort of story I was after. Carrying a scan tool is a good idea but if a DPF fault occurs I doubt the cheap tools will do little more than clear the code which may return straight away if a forced burn can not be performed. Although an ash blocked DPF is probably done for. No burn will fix that. :|
And yes, the wrong oil will wreck a DPF. It has to be a low ash oil.

I think, IIRC, during a burn the engine can use up to an extra 3L of fuel which is another reason consumption suffers so badly. It is making the diesel a poorer option. And once these vehicles get on in K's it becomes less viable to keep them on the road. Whose going to put a $4000 (cheap one) DPF in a 15 year old vehicle?

The reason I ask is we have a tremendous problem with DPF's blocking up because of no access to roads of over 50Kph so the DPF's engines never run a burn/regen and therefore the car goes into limp mode.
Just wondered if other parts of Oz have the same problem. Especially area'a of driving in the bush where higher speeds are impossible to achieve.

if it is just used in the bush then i would look at removing the DPF. some makes are very easy to remove and reprogram.
my wagon apparently goes from 570nm at 2000rpm (stock with 8 speed gearbox so pulls like a truck) to over 700nm just
by deleting the DPF and turning off the EGR, sadly my wife wont let me hot rod the family car.

Just do it Shep :Y: as a personal Christmas pressy :playful:.
 
Trash said:
DPF

Or

EGR ?

DPF. EGR is a different animal.

I should point out the question is not about my problem. I actually drive a very reliable '96 Vectra (Yes, I said reliable Vectra) I bought for $200 from the wreckers four years ago. It's more of a query about DPF problems generally. I do some vehicle repairs here and DPF's are a big problem.

Some vehicles and trucks ive driven have a burn off display. And some you had the choice to have it on/off on the dash display.
Thus you could switch to manual burn off when suited.
Most ive seen let you burn whilst driving or at idol.

Can't say I have ever 'knowingly' come across a vehicle with a manual DPF burn switch. Good idea though.

Those egr's are probably the worst invention ever for pollution control.
Makes it run worse. Try running around with a bag over your head breathing in your old air repeatedly!
Have a workshop reprogram it

The idea is not as bad as it is widely believed. In fact some engine's will not well with out. The trouble is the EGR is the last component in the system, so if anything else falls over the EGR is doomed to perform badly, and once that falls, everything else suffers. The vicious cycle begins (Patrols excluded). But that's another story.

if it is just used in the bush then i would look at removing the DPF. some makes are very easy to remove and reprogram.
my wagon apparently goes from 570nm at 2000rpm (stock with 8 speed gearbox so pulls like a truck) to over 700nm just
by deleting the DPF and turning off the EGR, sadly my wife wont let me hot rod the family car.

That is probably the answer. But here that would cost over $3000 in transport to get to somewhere that could be done. That's before any other costs.

Any thoughts on DPF emulators?

Still like to know of other problems
 
Shep said:
I have a jeep with a dpf and besides using a bit extra fuel when it is doing a burn there has never been an issue.
My parents had a Pajero drop into limp in a remote place due to dpf and they were able to drive 400km to where a tow truck could pick up the car.
The Pajero blocked the dpf due to the wrong oil being used.

Anyone that drives a modern car needs to carry a scan tool and understand how to use it. The one I have cost $20 and $15 for the app to run it.
Using the cheap scan tool I was able to keep my petrol jeep running while out bush when a cam angle sensor died.

400km in limp mode, thats a long day :(
 
budgies1 said:
Shep said:
I have a jeep with a dpf and besides using a bit extra fuel when it is doing a burn there has never been an issue.
My parents had a Pajero drop into limp in a remote place due to dpf and they were able to drive 400km to where a tow truck could pick up the car.
The Pajero blocked the dpf due to the wrong oil being used.

Anyone that drives a modern car needs to carry a scan tool and understand how to use it. The one I have cost $20 and $15 for the app to run it.
Using the cheap scan tool I was able to keep my petrol jeep running while out bush when a cam angle sensor died.

400km in limp mode, thats a long day :(

Saw the same thing to another Pajero in Halls Creek back in August. Wrong oil used.

Cheers

Doug
 
Rockhunter62 said:
budgies1 said:
Shep said:
I have a jeep with a dpf and besides using a bit extra fuel when it is doing a burn there has never been an issue.
My parents had a Pajero drop into limp in a remote place due to dpf and they were able to drive 400km to where a tow truck could pick up the car.
The Pajero blocked the dpf due to the wrong oil being used.

Anyone that drives a modern car needs to carry a scan tool and understand how to use it. The one I have cost $20 and $15 for the app to run it.
Using the cheap scan tool I was able to keep my petrol jeep running while out bush when a cam angle sensor died.

400km in limp mode, thats a long day :(

Saw the same thing to another Pajero in Halls Creek back in August. Wrong oil used.

Cheers

Doug

I believe that it is only Pajero autos built around 2008 that have a dpf so a lot of workshops just use normal mineral diesel oil
unaware that they are causing issues. I had a 2013 that didn't have a DPF, turned the egr off and slapped a 3" turbo back exhaust
on it and it transformed the way it ran and got a 2L per 100km fuel saving.

Back to the OP if it is $3000 per car to delete the dpf and you have a couple then instead of sending the car to the workshop get
the workshop to travel to you. The delete pipe isn't hard to fit and then the tech just needs a laptop to reprogram the car.
 
I read somewhere that the EGR can be tricked by replacing the sensor with a a resistor and blanking off the plumbing from the exhaust.
 

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