Just a week ago I was deep in the W.A. bush and destroyed a tire on my BT50, to my horror I discovered that my wheel nut spanner did not fit on the nuts, I was lucky not to be on my own, so Kim and Linc. helped me, it was very difficult to get the wheel nuts off. After the trip I went to Kalgoorlie Mazda, they could not help me, and they sent me to Tyrepower down the road. The tyrepower manager told me that I was not the first one with this problem, the original wheel nuts got an alu.capping, and after a certain time they swell and you can't get a spanner on the nuts, so I had to buy 24 after-market wheel nuts from Tyrepower. This is good to be aware of. Cheers, Hermann.
BT50 & Ranger wheel nuts
- Thread starter hermann
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Lucky man hermann, good info never heard of this issue before. Next time you go to remote locations take a complete 1/2 inch socket set with extension's and braker bar. My wife can't understand why I carry so many tools simple reason if I can sort myself I save time and money. In a remote location you might just save your own life so $200.00 or $300.00 bucks (for a decent quality set) is worth it in my book.
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Yeah and they are always the carefree ones that say "ahh it'll be right" yeah it will if you have a well prepared mate.Bogger said:Can relate well to that RM .............. all my mates always hang it on me for how much stuff I takeBut when ever something goes pear shaped, guess who they turn to
AND they don't know how to use the bloody tools when you hand them the right one to fix their rooted vehicle, so guess who climbs under in the mud to fix it?
Like you i carry enough tools to strip and rebuild my ute in the fieldRM Outback said:
Which include ryobi rattle gun, drill and grinder with 4 battries and 2 chargers oh and if its hot i have the ryobi fan :8 :8 :8
Can never have enough tools in the bush
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Battery operated gear is the ducks guts but when they die the trusty hand tools always bring home the bacon and see you back on your way.
Yes well i do carry a big hammer :8 ] but have the generator to charge when required
but have the generator to charge when required
shakergt
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I am curious to find out if a four way wheel brace would have fixed your problem?
They are a heck of a lot cheaper than 24 wheel nuts
They are a heck of a lot cheaper than 24 wheel nuts
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shakergt said:
I have a BT50 and that was my solution.
I had new tyres fitted and after a couple of days I checked the nuts, so glad I did.
shakergt said:
Yes the difference between 22 mm and 13/16 may well solve the issue :Y: Always best with aftermarket wheel brace in any case, as the quality on most in both sizing and strength that is supplied OEM is questionable at best. Have seen many failures over the years where they simply bend or break
A slight smear of anti rust on wheel studs is also an added bonus, as prevents the nut from picking up stud threads as can occur due to dry threads. Over tightening being a major issue especially when young johnny the apprentice, (or slack operator) has held the rattle gun on full whilst he has a cigarette and stretched the wheel stud out a bit. All's good until you try and remove the nut or worse case scenario the stretched studs fail and your wheel overtakes the vehicle A very neglected part of maintenance are wheel studs, and can result in a simple exercise turning into an absolute nightmare, especially when it occurs in a remote location. Many if they thought about it may realise their wheels have not been removed for years ? Worth a check :Y: Also worth being aware of cheap aftermarket wheel nuts ............ especially chrome type. If the chroming process has allowed chrome into the thread area then it can effect the pitch of the thread and create binding. basically if you cannot wind on nut with fingers then there is an issue :|
Young Johnny at work
Cando
Noel
I've got a 2015 Ranger and I've had to replace all the wheel nuts due to that aluminium cap layer whatever it is on the wheel nut.. some of them I had to bash them socket on. all fixed now, I've got real wheel nuts..
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I think it's bad that Mazda did not help out, They made the flaming thing so they should put it right, What a Slack Mob sending you to another company to fix their &$@ Ups,
By now they must know that there is an Issue with "Their" Wheel Nuts So why have they not been made to recall the Vehicles or will they wait until enough people get killed first and then Blame the folks in Japan while getting their yearly Bonus pleading Ignorance to the facts., Lol.
Bad Form Mazda, Bad Form :N: :N:
By now they must know that there is an Issue with "Their" Wheel Nuts So why have they not been made to recall the Vehicles or will they wait until enough people get killed first and then Blame the folks in Japan while getting their yearly Bonus pleading Ignorance to the facts., Lol.
Bad Form Mazda, Bad Form :N: :N:
First job on any vehicle new to you is to take all the wheels off and grease all the stud threads with a good high pressure waterproof grease or anti seize compound. This will help to stop galling of the threads and also allow full torque to be achieved.
Nearly all tyre places these days that use a rattle gun have them fitted with a torque tube that limits the amount of torque that can be applied to your wheel nuts, they are colour coded for differing torque values.
I am interested to know how aluminium swells, did the Tyrepower man explain that to you? The only thing I can think of is that there is dissimilar metal corrosion happening between the two layers of metal.
Nearly all tyre places these days that use a rattle gun have them fitted with a torque tube that limits the amount of torque that can be applied to your wheel nuts, they are colour coded for differing torque values.
I am interested to know how aluminium swells, did the Tyrepower man explain that to you? The only thing I can think of is that there is dissimilar metal corrosion happening between the two layers of metal.
Think you will find it's more distortion of thin outer case around internal nut due to the torque applied , more so than actual swelling of the material. Then once distorted doesn't fit the profile of nut wrench correctly.
Worse scenario chisel of the outer until you get to the nut underneath the thin outer sheath.
Worse scenario chisel of the outer until you get to the nut underneath the thin outer sheath.
Whisp said:
Just to add , if you have capped nuts ( sealed so you cant see the stud) add minimal grease or oil as they will be hydraulic when screwed on and either blow the cap off nut or give the impression they are tight when its really hydraulic preasure and arent seated on the rim.
I have popped the cap end off a nut by adding lube.
