Will this be the Ultimate Prospecting Vehicle?

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Dihusky said:
Ridge Runner said:
If that rumble gets too much the unbolt the cab and slide some 1/2" thick strips of rubber the width of the chassis rails between the cab and the chassis and bolt it back down that should isolate some of the noise. Good Luck, :Y:

I like the idea, will take a look tomorrow to see if the cab is rigid or has isolation mounts. :) :Y: :Y:

Yeah I used some of that 12mm rubber with the cotton/nylon weave between the layers that they use for Truck mudflaps on mine, Although the body panels are alloy most of the framework is steel, Also you can slide a layer of 1/4" rubber between the Gearbox mount and the cross member that will also help, And pressure wash under the cab and the guards and spray a few heavy coats of stoneguard/Tectol under there should help a lot but it will also deaden the noise from rocks when the tyres kick em up, You need something like Tectol which is the best and never goes rock hard and stays pliable and if it gets scratched it blends back together so the surface is always protected, which works well for beach work etc.

hope that helps.

John.
 
Adventure.b4 dementia said:
Mate, I am green with envy, what a pickup :Y:

Spotted this on our travels, Canning Stock Route, round trip from Broome. 10 days, 14k a seat, 3 of these
https://www.prospectingaustralia.co.../1525444054_img_20170715_165102-2448x1836.jpg

Look forward to watch your progress,

Cheers David

This one was not cheap, it is set up as the kitchen, spoke to the drive in Broome, he claims 450k plus 150k fitout. The other two, one with a trailer carried the paying passengers.

I had a look at the 4x4 here at Grey's in Perth, no 6 wheelers at the auction I viewed First thing for me, was the lack of vehicle security but you have that sussed.

Was looking for a 4x4 sprinter but I might have to change mind.

Love your work

Cheers David
 
Di H a couple of things that may also may help re resonance / vibration ? If it doesn't have already, fitting a small section of flex pipe in exhaust can help eliminate any resonance. The other is to de stress the exhaust system, simply get under vehicle and heat the exhaust rosy red right around it in several places along the system. This relieves any stress that may be in the system. Even though an exhaust is usually rubber mounted, resonance can transmit thru a mount if the system is placing stress / pressure on that mount. By heating, this simply allows the exhaust to find it's "rest" position. I never fit a system without doing this as even in a passenger vehicle, the problem can make a vehicle very uncomfortable to travel in.
On the fun stuff ..................... are you staying with the camo paint theme in the final paint / finish ? :Y:

1525552748_flex.jpg
 
Dihusky i think i did join the FB perentie page,thanks for info,now if i wanted to buy one in 3-4 years do you know if they are still in service,what im getting at is would i have to chase one privately or hopefully theyd still be filtering threw Frontline which id prefer to source one from,any idea?
Nice job on the sound proofing,ive been driving 60 series cruzas for last 15 yrs,my last one i just sold a few months ago we it stripped yrs ago and gave it a nice paint job and cab refit more or less,dynamatted it all including the doors like you,made a world of difference,just updated to a new dmax,needed a ute but not sure if ill ever trust this thing like the old cruza or a perentie,the 6x6 is alot of rig for the $$$.....
 
Ridge Runner said:
Dihusky said:
Ridge Runner said:
If that rumble gets too much the unbolt the cab and slide some 1/2" thick strips of rubber the width of the chassis rails between the cab and the chassis and bolt it back down that should isolate some of the noise. Good Luck, :Y:

I like the idea, will take a look tomorrow to see if the cab is rigid or has isolation mounts. :) :Y: :Y:

Yeah I used some of that 12mm rubber with the cotton/nylon weave between the layers that they use for Truck mudflaps on mine, Although the body panels are alloy most of the framework is steel, Also you can slide a layer of 1/4" rubber between the Gearbox mount and the cross member that will also help, And pressure wash under the cab and the guards and spray a few heavy coats of stoneguard/Tectol under there should help a lot but it will also deaden the noise from rocks when the tyres kick em up, You need something like Tectol which is the best and never goes rock hard and stays pliable and if it gets scratched it blends back together so the surface is always protected, which works well for beach work etc.

hope that helps.

John.

Checked it out and the cabin is on big isolation mounts, plus pretty much everything else is rubber mounted

1525568218_cabin-mounting.jpg


Haven't touched the underbody treatment yet, that is one of the last stages once all the chests etc are in place. I don't like doing things twice, but that said, this project has had heaps of things done umpteen times, the aircon compressor is a prime example. That'll be discussed in a later chapter.
 
Bogger said:
Di H a couple of things that may also may help re resonance / vibration ? If it doesn't have already, fitting a small section of flex pipe in exhaust can help eliminate any resonance. The other is to de stress the exhaust system, simply get under vehicle and heat the exhaust rosy red right around it in several places along the system. This relieves any stress that may be in the system. Even though an exhaust is usually rubber mounted, resonance can transmit thru a mount if the system is placing stress / pressure on that mount. By heating, this simply allows the exhaust to find it's "rest" position. I never fit a system without doing this as even in a passenger vehicle, the problem can make a vehicle very uncomfortable to travel in.
On the fun stuff ..................... are you staying with the camo paint theme in the final paint / finish ? :Y:

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7268/1525552748_flex.jpg

Yep the flex is fitted, the original 2" exhaust didn't have one which is plain insanity, the new 3" exhaust has it fitted. This was an essential element of the turbo upgrade, and no end of fun fabricating the header section down to the flange past the gearbox mounting. Then I handed it over to the exhaust guys to do the final run.

1525568617_turbo-upgrade.jpg


1525568650_exhaust-flex-connect.jpg


The original 2" comes out in front of the rear wheels, the new 3" now comes out behind the rear wheels, this also helps to improve the sound.

1525569010_ex-tail-pipe.jpg


I find it unbelievable that some vehicles are not fitted with the flex section, simply asking for trouble with torque movement. Guaranteed to break something, usually the turbo flange and that's an expensive fix for the sake of a $100 item, yet I have heard stories of exhaust builders saying "we don't fit them, not necessary" duhh!!
 
These guys always have at least one for sale , they have 2 at the moment

Southeast commercials

1525578578_928d2c9e-acbb-46f0-87b5-cd667f16a29f.jpg
 
Dihusky said:
Ridge Runner said:
Dihusky said:
Ridge Runner said:
If that rumble gets too much the unbolt the cab and slide some 1/2" thick strips of rubber the width of the chassis rails between the cab and the chassis and bolt it back down that should isolate some of the noise. Good Luck, :Y:

I like the idea, will take a look tomorrow to see if the cab is rigid or has isolation mounts. :) :Y: :Y:

Yeah I used some of that 12mm rubber with the cotton/nylon weave between the layers that they use for Truck mudflaps on mine, Although the body panels are alloy most of the framework is steel, Also you can slide a layer of 1/4" rubber between the Gearbox mount and the cross member that will also help, And pressure wash under the cab and the guards and spray a few heavy coats of stoneguard/Tectol under there should help a lot but it will also deaden the noise from rocks when the tyres kick em up, You need something like Tectol which is the best and never goes rock hard and stays pliable and if it gets scratched it blends back together so the surface is always protected, which works well for beach work etc.

hope that helps.

John.

Checked it out and the cabin is on big isolation mounts, plus pretty much everything else is rubber mounted

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/10304/1525568218_cabin-mounting.jpg

Haven't touched the underbody treatment yet, that is one of the last stages once all the chests etc are in place. I don't like doing things twice, but that said, this project has had heaps of things done umpteen times, the aircon compressor is a prime example. That'll be discussed in a later chapter.

Yeah depending on the age of the Truck those rubber pads might of gone hard and lost their springiness, On my trucks I use to replace them about every 10 years or less,

I also had a 1968 series 2a LWB lightweight Land Rover and they had huge springs in them and the noise was really loud above 80ks and after I did all the mods the only way it would quieten down was to load it up with gear, It had 4.7 Diffs and a Holden 186 in it, Tough truck but hard on ya body and ya ears, In the end I fitted a pair of Camira bucket seats just to add a bit of comfort lol, :Y:
 
I think you might need a couple of 60" Hi-Lift Jacks to cope with the extra weight just in case, Another thing they are good for apart from their normal tasks is when you find a camp site that is not totally level you can use them to tilt the body level for a better nights sleep. :Y:

John.
 
Dihusky said:
Bogger, to answer your previous question, Auscam?... Absolutely, paint is sitting in the shed ready to go, AND... the camper will also be matching Auscam! Won't miss her on the road, in the scrub... that's a different matter.. you'll never see her! 8) 8) :Y:
Nice pipework ................ done quite a few turbo builds and there always appears to be something in the wrong place just to make the job more interesting ;) As for colour ............... only way to go.
:Y: :Y: :Y: :Y: :D
 
LoneWolf said:
Will we see it at Gemorama Dihusky ?

LW.....

Love to be down there with Lizzy LW, but all will depend on the chests and painting getting finished in time and the clock is ticking..

I have a fair bit of work booked in so little time through the week, plus the Lismore gem event takes another day away.
 
Bogger said:
Nice pipework ................ done quite a few turbo builds and there always appears to be something in the wrong place just to make the job more interesting ;) As for colour ............... only way to go.
:Y: :Y: :Y: :Y: :D

Thanks mate, at least there is no emission crap in the way! The manifold connection took a while to profile and I lost count of how many times the exhaust was fitted and removed. Colour.. Ceramic coating, guy up the road does it and turned it around in a couple of days.
 
Di H colour was referring to Ozcam :D as in only way to go, but speaking of ceramic coating, it applies also ................ no wonder they used it on the nose of the shuttle. ;) Used to get the tops of pistons ceramic coated so as they could handle the much higher cylinder temps under high boost. Speaking of which what boost pressure are you running ? I note EGT gauge ................ are you just using a gauge to monitor temps or using it to also trigger water injection? On the bikes when only running pump gas, we used to have it set up to activate water injection at 7 lb of boost . Keeps cylinder temps down plus the added bonus being that as it burns, it produces a bit more oxygen content to the mix so you can feed more fuel in :Y:
 
Bogger said:
Di H colour was referring to Ozcam :D as in only way to go, but speaking of ceramic coating, it applies also ................ no wonder they used it on the nose of the shuttle. ;) Used to get the tops of pistons ceramic coated so as they could handle the much higher cylinder temps under high boost. Speaking of which what boost pressure are you running ? I note EGT gauge ................ are you just using a gauge to monitor temps or using it to also trigger water injection? On the bikes when only running pump gas, we used to have it set up to activate water injection at 7 lb of boost . Keeps cylinder temps down plus the added bonus being that as it burns, it produces a bit more oxygen content to the mix so you can feed more fuel in :Y:

Auscam core military colour scheme:
1525668550_6x6right.jpg

1525668574_110right.jpg


So yes there is a plan for how she will look.

Gauges are being used to monitor engine etc, not using any injection systems, keeping it simple. Currently running somewhere around 15psi boost, I think... VDO gauge is faulty out of the box :( and EGT maxing at 650C
 
:Y: :Y:
Always disappointing when you pay the dollars for a quality item and it's faulty, :N: Makes you think you may as well have brought the dollar bargain jobbie.
Can't wait to see it all finished as I am sure yourself also :Y:
 
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