Dual Battery

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Will idling a hilux for an hour or so put any meaningful charge into a deep cycle lead acid battery.
Just a solinoid dual batt set up. I don't think it will, but need to ask.
Ta.
 
Not sure on the hilux Dave,
I have a redarc 1225d hooked up to my second battery but at idle it puts out the full 25amps it's capable of outputting.
So at least 25 maybe more amps would go to the aux if it was just connected with a bang on bang off solenoid.
25+ amps is pretty handy in my book.
You can get inline units like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DUAL-BAT...242138?hash=item489f004c1a:g:23AAAOSw5cRZL5iA
Or something like this for a more permanent fitting as a shunt is fitted. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-100V-...epid=0&hash=item419a946dba:g:r2EAAOSwPcVVwjKr
You could have that display in the cab.
 
If it is a vsr solenoid you will get an idea how well it's charged by how long it takes to disconnect the battery's after the motor is turned off.
Also payed to carry a multimeter to keep a eye on things.
 
Hi Dave,
If you only have a feed to a battery, The following are limitations,
Length and size of cable,
Amperage of the battery,
Size and type of connector(s).
Also, An alternator at idle is hardly putting out any charge.
To get some amperage happening, Set the idle at around 1000 rpm.
Not really a good thing to do as diesel motors or even petrol don't like
a continual standing run.
If you have say a 200 ah battery and all the planets line up as if to say,
You would put a bit of a charge in but not a full one.


davent said:
Will idling a hilux for an hour or so put any meaningful charge into a deep cycle lead acid battery.
Just a solinoid duel batt set up. I don't think it will, but need to ask.
Ta.
 
I think every vehicle will be different but the electrical system is designed to be run in peak hour traffic and run all necessary components.
Think about stop start traffic in the winter, headlights on, windscreen demister fan on, rear element demister on, brake lights mostly on.
All of that would be an easy 20 amps, plus enough to keep a winter cold battery charged. I'd be surprised if they don't put out 30+ at idle, otherwise all those cars in traffic jams would quickly have dim headlights and flat batteries and that doesn't happen. CCA or starter batteries are designed to deliver short bursts of power but not meant for prolonged draining like a deep cycle is, so the system cannot rely on the battery to power components, only the alternator can do that.
 
Davent, hope you found a conclusion to your original query. Do note that the alternator on any vehicle puts out very little charge when idling under 1000rpm. Alternators are setup to charge at lower revs on a diesel, but you still need to come up to about 1200rpm to get meaningful charge. NB im not sure if this still is the case with modern diesel 4WDs.
On another note, the (fairly new on the market) Lead Crystal Batteries are an interesting addition the deep cycle family.
Ive been looking at these
https://trailercamperaustralia.com....ad-crystal-battery-6-cnfj-100-deep-cycle.html
 
davent said:
Will idling a hilux for an hour or so put any meaningful charge into a deep cycle lead acid battery.
Just a solinoid dual batt set up. I don't think it will, but need to ask.
Ta.
no
 
Ded Driver said:
Davent, hope you found a conclusion to your original query. Do note that the alternator on any vehicle puts out very little charge when idling under 1000rpm. Alternators are setup to charge at lower revs on a diesel, but you still need to come up to about 1200rpm to get meaningful charge. NB im not sure if this still is the case with modern diesel 4WDs.
On another note, the (fairly new on the market) Lead Crystal Batteries are an interesting addition the deep cycle family.
Ive been looking at these
https://trailercamperaustralia.com....ad-crystal-battery-6-cnfj-100-deep-cycle.html
Been on the scene for five or more years and they don't cope well in engine bay situ
Dubious as to warrant the cost. Claimed 18 year life span so I query why only a 3 year warranty :/
 
If you want to put power back in the battery you need to run it up above 1100rpm and then the voltage starts to get up around 14 to 14.4 volts, Normally when you start a diesel it takes a few minutes "couple" of minutes for it to open up to putting out full power, You can hear this when you hook up a compressor and start the engine, it seems to run normal and then after a few minutes it speeds up and the compressor seems to run 15-20% faster and it will pump up the tyre a lot quicker. I have tried this with 4 different compressors and they all do the same on an engine that has just been started.
 
Sweeper said:
Ded Driver said:
Davent, hope you found a conclusion to your original query. Do note that the alternator on any vehicle puts out very little charge when idling under 1000rpm. Alternators are setup to charge at lower revs on a diesel, but you still need to come up to about 1200rpm to get meaningful charge. NB im not sure if this still is the case with modern diesel 4WDs.
On another note, the (fairly new on the market) Lead Crystal Batteries are an interesting addition the deep cycle family.
Ive been looking at these
https://trailercamperaustralia.com....ad-crystal-battery-6-cnfj-100-deep-cycle.html
Been on the scene for five or more years and they don't cope well in engine bay situ
Dubious as to warrant the cost. Claimed 18 year life span so I query why only a 3 year warranty :/

yes Sweeper, I have read on about 3 different caravan/camping forums about peoples experiences with LC batteries. Definitely not good in the engine bay, but a lot of setups are located in other areas (mine will be in the rear).
They are nominally about $150 more than a regular AGM but have a much better discharge profile & life, & it seems the 18yrs is manufacturer tests in perfect conditions, which obviously isn't the real world, but 12yrs should be achievable.
Given the potential for any batteries to be used in very harsh conditions I wouldn't expect any manufacturer to offer a long warranty.
When the specs are compared alongside a regular AGM deep cycle, the price premium seems reasonable to me, especially if you then compare to a lithium that costs around $800-1000
 
Ridge Runner said:
If you want to put power back in the battery you need to run it up above 1100rpm and then the voltage starts to get up around 14 to 14.4 volts, Normally when you start a diesel it takes a few minutes "couple" of minutes for it to open up to putting out full power, You can hear this when you hook up a compressor and start the engine, it seems to run normal and then after a few minutes it speeds up and the compressor seems to run 15-20% faster and it will pump up the tyre a lot quicker. I have tried this with 4 different compressors and they all do the same on an engine that has just been started.

Be it the more load placed on an Alt the more the torque required to drive it this idea appears flawed? Would humbly suggest rev increase would be due to engine operating temp being reached or more likely voltage reg dropping load of alt as start current is replaced in battery. This is the concept of why late model have smart alt to reduce engine load
 
Sweeper said:
Ridge Runner said:
If you want to put power back in the battery you need to run it up above 1100rpm and then the voltage starts to get up around 14 to 14.4 volts, Normally when you start a diesel it takes a few minutes "couple" of minutes for it to open up to putting out full power, You can hear this when you hook up a compressor and start the engine, it seems to run normal and then after a few minutes it speeds up and the compressor seems to run 15-20% faster and it will pump up the tyre a lot quicker. I have tried this with 4 different compressors and they all do the same on an engine that has just been started.

Be it the more load placed on an Alt the more the torque required to drive it this idea appears flawed? Would humbly suggest rev increase would be due to engine operating temp being reached or more likely voltage reg dropping load of alt as start current is replaced in battery. This is the concept of why late model have smart alt to reduce engine load

I don't know what the cause is but every time I hook up a 12v compressor within 4 or 5 minutes you hear the compressor suddenly pick up speed, The voltage normally read about 14.4 at 1100-1200rpm where I set it but you always hear the compressor pick up speed for no reason at all, the truck engine is still doing the same speed I set it at. Now I let it run for a while and when the 4 or 5 minutes are up I then hook on the compressor and just does it's thing. seems to do it no matter which one I hook up.
 
Well it clearly varies with vehicles.
Mine (Ranger)at idle was just putting out 26.9A into main batt and 19.3A into auxillary just at idle.
That's over 45A all up. I'd sure as hell call that useful.
1538699544_main_batt.jpg

1538699564_auxillary.jpg
 
Occasional_panner said:
Well it clearly varies with vehicles.
Mine (Ranger)at idle was just putting out 26.9A into main batt and 19.3A into auxillary just at idle.
That's over 45A all up. I'd sure as hell call that useful.
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7956/1538699544_main_batt.jpg
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7956/1538699564_auxillary.jpg

I think you might find if that is an AC clamp meter it will give higher reading when it is clamped on to a DC source, I have tried a few times to buy a DC version and they either cost and arm and a leg or I get told they don't exist which I know is not true.

Not saying yours is not a DC model but it's just something to ponder. :Y:
 
Ridge Runner said:
Occasional_panner said:
Well it clearly varies with vehicles.
Mine (Ranger)at idle was just putting out 26.9A into main batt and 19.3A into auxillary just at idle.
That's over 45A all up. I'd sure as hell call that useful.
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7956/1538699544_main_batt.jpg
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7956/1538699564_auxillary.jpg

I think you might find if that is an AC clamp meter it will give higher reading when it is clamped on to a DC source, I have tried a few times to buy a DC version and they either cost and arm and a leg or I get told they don't exist which I know is not true.

Not saying yours is not a DC model but it's just something to ponder. :Y:
Nup, it can select between AC and DC, I use that on my solar system all the time when setting up new arrays and one self made controller doesn't have internal amp reading built in (yet) so I use this.
It's been verified by other shunt meters.
Sorry to disappoint you but those readings are very accurate.
That meter wasn't cheap but not too pricey $80 from memory from super cheap auto here in Aus, they don't sell them anymore but you can get the same thing from Ali exp
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UNI...3cb5-4a41-9640-b9e1370a7828&priceBeautifyAB=0

I know a few fellas on an electronics site that regularly use them too, they are very accurate and a ripper price.
 
Occasional_panner said:
Nup, it can select between AC and DC, I use that on my solar system all the time when setting up new arrays and one self made controller doesn't have internal amp reading built in (yet) so I use this.
It's been verified by other shunt meters.
Sorry to disappoint you but those readings are very accurate.
That meter wasn't cheap but not too pricey $80 from memory from super cheap auto here in Aus, they don't sell them anymore but you can get the same thing from Ali exp

I know a few fellas on an electronics site that regularly use them too, they are very accurate and a ripper price.

I am not disappointed, I did say that I was not saying that yours was an AC model,

I have one but it only shows AC but it does work on DC but the numbers change depending on where in the clamp you place the wires, I would like to have a DC version, my DMM only measures up to 10Amps although It is accurate to 0.00001 or 0.0001amp it is next to useless on high current jobs.
 
Just had another look at the vehicle 8.(
I should not have added the two readings as the auxillary feeds from the main battery, not direct from alternator, so the max it was making is in fact 26.9A @ idle, which is still very handy.
 
Occasional_panner said:
Just had another look at the vehicle 8.(
I should not have added the two readings as the auxillary feeds from the main battery, not direct from alternator, so the max it was making is in fact 26.9A @ idle, which is still very handy.
my idc gives 14.4v @25amp at car idle
 
Occasional_panner said:
Just had another look at the vehicle 8.(
I should not have added the two readings as the auxillary feeds from the main battery, not direct from alternator, so the max it was making is in fact 26.9A @ idle, which is still very handy.

Cool, well that is still a huge chunk of power, even Idling for an hour that would run ya fridge for one or two days ay,
 
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